Central & Eastern Europe

Thoughts and Photos from My Time in Chernobyl and Pripyat

November 14 2020 by Megan Starr 9 Comments

My first trip to Ukraine was all the way back in 2011. I say ‘all the way’ back because, unless you have been ignoring all major world news in recent years, you surely have heard about the revolution that took place in Ukraine and is still unraveling today.

Ukraine in 2011 is a very different place than Ukraine in 2016. One of the plans I had whilst in Ukraine back in 2011 was to visit the Chernobyl Exclusion Zone.

I had done thorough research and at the time, there were not many tours being offered. I finally found one suiting and was about to book it when I found out that the tours were indefinitely canceled.

Government corruption was rampant and the tours were feeding into all of it. I was gutted that I had to pass up Chernobyl and Pripyat on that trip but found solace in visiting the Chernobyl Museum in Kyiv (which is a fantastic and kitschy museum).

Over the years, I lost a bit of interest in visiting Chernobyl. It became more mainstream and people were visiting for bragging rights and not to learn more about the tragedy.

It seemed to be the hip place for photographers to go; one of the creepiest places in Europe … which never made much sense to me as everyone’s photos look identical in the end and it’s not really that creepy. Even the private tours are so common these days that you rarely see unique perspectives and photos.

No matter what tour guides say to travelers, someone else has done the same tour as you and someone has the exact same photos as you. And while that drove me to become a bit apathetic about visiting the place, the tragedy was something of deep and sincere interest to me and has been for decades.

I have written massive research papers on the Chernobyl disaster. I lived in Europe when it happened. I’ve always been immensely curious about its history. Yadda, yadda. So, despite knowing the experience would feel contrived and a bit artificial, I still desired to do it.

I booked a tour to Chernobyl when I went back to Ukraine this March. My group was very small, but did consist of a bunch of annoying Belgian guys on a ‘lad’s holiday’.

It also included a French woman filming a documentary (who held our group up continuously) and a Spanish girl who constantly asked what Chernobyl was and why it was a big deal. Before even arriving in the Chernobyl Exclusion Zone, I realized that dark tourism there has become more mainstream than I previously thought.

In the van on the way to the Exclusion Zone, we watched a documentary about Chernobyl, which was a film I had already seen twice. We arrived after a couple of hours and had our passports checked and proceeded into the zone. The different tour companies had it fairly well planned so you’re not crossing other groups and have most places to ourselves, which was nice.

My highlight was definitely the Russian Woodpecker, which I previously wrote about. It was a part of the zone I knew very little about and it was interesting to see it in person and find out a little more which drove my curiosity. The rest of the trip seemed a bit staged, on the other hand. I have a Ukrainian friend who told me that many Ukrainians will sneak into Pripyat or other areas of the zone at night and drink and party.

Based on the fact that floorboards are being torn up for money and pieces of equipment and things left behind are being sold like scrap metal, I definitely don’t doubt her for a second. The creepy dolls scattered about? Let’s be real here- they make for the perfect Instagram photo.

And the gas masks? Well, it really adds to the aura of the place. Parts of it were absolutely staged no matter how compelling it is to think otherwise. Do I care? Not really. I assumed it was going to be this way before I even booked the tour.

I have to say that I found the day and the cost very worthwhile and the experience was exactly what I figured it would be.

It was a mix of Belgian guys trying to squat into weird positions and not caring about the others around them as they tried to capture the perfect photo (that about 500K other people already have), the Spanish girl constantly placing her purse on the moss or pieces of metal despite being told not to, the French lady being twenty minutes late at arriving back from every building and location, and my travel partner and I enjoyed every minute of it despite all of that.

Would I do it again? Probably not. But if I ever did, I would book a private tour for just two people.

Regardless of how artificial parts of the tour felt, it was kind of like putting that missing piece of the puzzle with the others. I had a lot of knowledge about the Chernobyl disaster and Pripyat. Getting to see it with my own eyes was something I had always dreamt of doing. And I had.

There is only one piece of the puzzle still missing and that is Slavutych. I will be in Slavuytch at the end of this month and I look forward to sharing some photos and details about the place once I have traveled there.

Below are some photos of my time in the Chernobyl Exclusion Zone and Pripyat:

Obviously, everyone’s experience at Chernobyl and Pripyat varies. If you have been, please let me know what you thought of the experience! If you’re looking for essential things to do in Kyiv, definitely book a Chernobyl trip.

Tallinn to Helsinki Ferry: Cruising Across the Baltic Sea with Tallink Megastar

November 14 2020 by Megan Starr 2 Comments

It took me eight years of living in Europe to take a Baltic ferry. I have visited the Baltics and Nordics so many times (I mean, I lived in Norway for four years!), but I never seemed to hop aboard a ship and sail to my next destination; it was all about the plane journey. In January, I randomly ended up in Tallinn after a Baltic storm canceled my ferry to Helsinki in the Åland Islands.

This took me to Tallinn. I took the Tallinn to Helsinki ferry with Tallink Silja and it was wonderful… except I ended up queasy and seasick. Fast forward two months and I found myself back on a Tallinn Helsinki ferry with Tallink Silja Line… this time determined to experience the journey to its fullest and not as a seasick, tired traveler.

This post will discuss why you should take the Tallink Megastar in between Helsinki and Tallinn and why you should treat yourself to an upgrade to Comfort Class or Business Class while on the ship!

Part of my reasoning for never taking the Helsinki Tallinn ferry was because I assumed it would be extremely expensive. As it turns out, I couldn’t have been more wrong. In fact, even upgrading your trip to Comfort Class or Business Class is pretty affordable and the amenities are worth it.

I was really interested in showcasing the different luxuries and amenities of each type of upgrade on this Tallinn – Helsinki trip as I think they are both really viable and smart options for travelers depending on what you are doing in either city.

Another big thing I wanted to do was I wanted to cruise along the Tallink Megastar ship, the new ship from Tallink Silja that was built in January 2017. Why did I want to sail with the Megastar? Well, let’s just say that when I first saw the name, I thought it was my name and I was confused.

Then, I threw my glasses on and reread the ship’s name and got a bit giddy. If it wasn’t my destiny to travel from Tallinn to Helsinki aboard a ship with basically the same name as me, I don’t know what is.

About the Tallink Silja Line

Tallink Silja Line has two brands that operate under it: Tallink and Silja Line. The Silja Line goes in between Finland and Sweden. Tallink operates the routes in between the Nordics and Baltics. The Helsinki – Tallinn ferry route that I took was part of Tallink.

The Tallink Megastar is the newest ship from Tallink for the Tallinn – Helsinki ferry route, but you can also go aboard the Star across the Baltic. Both ships will get you from city to city within a mere two hours… regardless of weather.

I find it absolutely incredible that ships can go through the patches of ice that were on the Baltic, but it did with ease and the ship was stabilized so well that I never felt a thing. It is so remarkable how smooth the ride was.

About the Tallink Megastar

The Megastar was built by LNG in January 2017 and its inaugural voyage across the Baltic took place on January 29, 2017. The ship is such an engineering feat and I was so happy to get a chance to experience it on different levels of passenger classes as it gave me a chance to check out the entire ship. There are up to 7 trips a day in between Tallinn and Helsinki and as mentioned before, the ship goes in all weather.

Watching the ship glide so smoothly through the ice was one of the coolest experiences of my life. The schedule for the Tallink ships just so happens to let you head to the other city for merely a day trip. While I decided to stay overnight, in hindsight, I should have done the trip to Helsinki from Tallinn as a day trip as my accommodation in Helsinki was horrible.

Eco-Friendly Way to Cruise

One of my favorite things about the Megastar is that it is a much more eco-friendly ship than any of the others I have seen sailing across the Baltics. I am trying to focus a bit more on my carbon footprint these days. The Megastar’s CO2 emissions are 40% lower than that of other ships.

Considering it hauled over 2 million passengers in its first year, this is a really promising and refreshing number and I hope that the Megastar sets the benchmark for modern-day cruises and ships.

On Board the Megastar

I was so stunned at how many things existed on the ship. You don’t really get a good idea of it until you wander around… and get a little bit lost! I stumbled across a Burger King, bars and lounges, duty-free shops, several restaurants, gambling areas, decks overlooking the water, a cabin area, etc.

It was insane! I was totally taken aback at how the ship caters to every single passenger. The cabins are also there to host the four-legged passengers (let’s be honest- the best kind of passenger).

Here are some photos of my wonder about:

Tallink Comfort Lounge

On my Tallinn Helsinki ferry, I had a ticket for the Comfort Lounge. This is only a €20 upgrade compared to the usual price, and it is well worth it, in my opinion. I have to admit, I didn’t really see the advantage at first when I walked inside.

You receive complimentary veggie slices, chips and small eats, soda, and coffee and tea. But I wasn’t 100% sure that this was worth the upgrade fee of €20. I enjoyed some snacks and a coffee and then went for a stroll around the ship.

Ahhhhhh…. so this is why that upgrade is worth it. You have a relaxing space and it is pretty quiet. The rest of the ship was busier, teeming with children, etc. There is nothing wrong with this, but our ship departed the Tallinn Ferry Terminal at 0730 and I really couldn’t think of anything worse than being around a lot of people.

I was able to enjoy my Comfort Lounge seat by the window in peace, while I downed Therma-Flu (I was in the process of getting the flu). It was such a relaxing experience and the sunrise view we got of Tallinn was absolutely awe-inspiring.

The Comfort Lounge is located on Deck 8 and has televisions, power outlets, bathrooms, a bar with drinks and sandwiches and small eats (prices not included in ticket), and WiFi. To take a virtual tour of the Comfort Lounge on the Megastar, click here.

These products above are all Estonian products or products produced for the 100th year anniversary of Estonia’s independence. YES- you can even buy craft beer on board. How awesome is that!? And Estonia makes amazing craft beer… just in case you haven’t heard me rave about it in the past.

Tallink Business Lounge

One of my coolest experiences on the road (err… by boat?) has to be my trip in the Tallink Business Lounge aboard the Megastar. I did this trip in January and was sick the entire time. This time, I had Business Lounge access from Helsinki to Tallinn and I was determined to not be seasick for it. Well, out with seasickness and in with the flu. But I wasn’t going to allow that to ruin my trip.

The Tallink Business Lounge is also located on Deck 8 (and directly after you board the ship so you don’t have to maneuver about the boat trying to find a place to call home for the next two hours!) The best part about being in the Business Lounge is that you get unlimited food, both hot and cold, and drinks. Alcoholic drinks.

For anyone who knows the price of beer in Finland, this is a major score. You are able to eat an entire meal with top-quality food while sipping on champagne. They even have vegan options.

You can make yourself a cocktail, pour yourself a beer, or take advantage of the premium WiFi in the lounge which is significantly faster than the regular WiFi throughout the ship. There is a room for printing with a nice desk, lounge chairs, televisions, and bathrooms inside the Lounge.

The Lounge chairs have a killer view and it is seriously worth the upgrade fee of €65 alone. If you have a car onboard, you automatically get Priority service and can exit the ship first with your vehicle, which is a major timesaver.

While I was sick with the flu while inside the Business Lounge, my partner wandered about the ship to check things out again and came back saying, “Thank goodness we are here… the ship is packed.” The Helsinki to Tallinn ferry that we were on was packed with workers from Latvia, Lithuania, and Estonia returning home from their jobs in the Nordics and the boat was pretty full as a result.

I am claustrophobic and while the Megastar is massive, I really do like having my own space and not feeling too close to other people. The Business Lounge gave me the comfort that I needed that day. To take a virtual tour of the Business Lounge on the Tallink Megastar, click here.

The Tallinn Helsinki Ferry with Tallink changed my perception about trips across the Baltic via boat. As I get older, I find myself more stressed out on planes and in airports, and I never felt any of that discomfort or anxiety throughout the entire process of getting from Tallinn to Helsinki and back from Helsinki to Tallinn.

While there really isn’t a bad seat on the ship, I do recommend treating yourself to an upgrade in the Comfort Lounge or Business Lounge depending on which one is right for you on your day of departure. After having those experiences and luxuries onboard, I would definitely pay the extra surcharge for added comfort. And… THOSE VIEWS!

To book your journey from Tallinn to Helsinki with Tallink, click here.

Have you ever taken a cruise or ferry? How about one through the Baltic Sea? Please let me know how your experience was in the comments!

*Mega THANKS to Tallink Silja for hosting my partner and me on a ship with (almost) the same name when we were traveling between Helsinki and Tallinn. All opinions and experiences stated above are my own. Except for everyone I probably infected with the flu while in Helsinki (sorry!)

11 Amazing Things to do in Druskininkai, Lithuania’s Spa Town

November 14 2020 by Megan Starr 3 Comments

Are you looking for the best things to do in Druskininkai, Lithuania? This guide will help you out!

I first heard of Druskininkai, Lithuania from my friends from Belarus. This Lithuania spa town sits fairly close to the Belarussian and Polish borders and is situated along the Nemunas River, Lithuania’s largest river, which also passes through Kaunas.

While Druskininkai may be known for its spa and mineral properties the same way Lithuania is known for being a nation of basketball lovers, the reason I had actually first heard about this town of around 13,000 residents is because of their snow arena. My friends were all heading up there to go snowboarding inside of the Druskininkai Snow Arena, home to one of Europe’s biggest indoor skiing slopes.

Druskininkai actually ended up as a stop on our Baltics itinerary this past March accidentally. We were finally going to check out Grutas Park but were keen to see something different when visiting Lithuania aside from the usual Vilnius, Trakai, Klaipeda, and Kaunas agenda that most travelers stick to.

Grutas Park was nearby and we figured two nights in Druskininkai would give us ample time to see a bit of the unique town in addition to allowing us to go to Grutas Park via taxi instead of by a rental car or tour. We had no idea that this spa town would completely win us over and gift us with the highlight of our entire Lithuania trip this time.

While most people go to Druskininkai for the spas and snow, we didn’t. This is a guide the other side of Druskininkai, Lithuania- the one most travelers don’t get a chance to enjoy.

*Please note that we made this trip in March and it was still extremely cold. Many businesses had seasonal hours, so always check prior to visiting to see if the place is actually open or not. This is not to deter you from visiting during the off-season (because the peacefulness of the town and nature was so well worth it!)

Where to Stay in Druskininkai

There are a few places to stay in Druskininkai, Lithuania, but we ended up at an apartment there as it just made sense for the long duration we were going to be on the road as we love to cook and chill out in the evenings. We never did end up cooking as the local food was so delicious in the end.

Čiurlionio 83

This was the flat we stayed in. We LOVED it. It was super clean, the host was friendly and welcoming (she doesn’t speak English, FYI), and we were completely gutted when it was time to leave. The flat was completely ours and had a bathroom, bedroom, and kitchen.

Inside of the bedroom, there was a television, sofa, and balcony. The kitchen was small and practical and had an electric trash can (which I played with far too much as it seemed so hi-tech). There was everything available to whip up a nice meal, including an array of spices. I can’t recommend this place enough.

Click here to check rates and availability for Čiurlionio 83

Pušynas Hotel and Spa

Okay, I obviously didn’t stay here. But, I visited it and went inside for a beer because I was definitely in no position to ignore this hotel’s incredibly incongruous design.

The hotel was built in 1982 and has been able to stand the test of time (which was no easy feat for Soviet buildings in Druskininkai) after a facelift and renovations in 2003. The staff didn’t speak excellent English, which wasn’t a huge surprise as we never stumbled upon other English-speaking tourists when there. But, they were friendly and the beer in the restaurant’s bar was good.

Click here to check rates and availability for Pušynas Hotel and Spa

Vila Arnika

This guesthouse is one of the most booked properties in Druskininkai. It is located close to the city center and resembles more of a home than a hotel, which is much to my liking.

The rooms are comfortable and have a lot of personality, unlike some sterile hotels I have been inside in Lithuania. Vila Arnika is a perfect place to stay for families or those wanting more amenities than your typical hotel. Also, there is an on-site brewery which is a huge added bonus.

Click here to check rates and availability for Vila Arnika

Restaurants in Druskininkai

Druskininkai doesn’t have an overabundance of restaurants, but the food I had there was excellent. I was on the hunt for Uzbek plov for a lot of the trip (sorry, Lithuanian food) and while there is an Uzbek place in the town, it wasn’t open while we were there and it was like a punch in the (very plov-craving) gut.

But, we found plenty of delicious food in the town, so it all worked out well for us. Here are the places we ate at or intended to eat at:

Toli Toli

Have you ever had a crush on a restaurant? I haven’t until I ate here. Toli Toli is a small, hip restaurant in Druskininkai that brings this Lithuania spa town mind-blowingly amazing Middle Eastern and North African flavors.

Owned by a free-spirited traveler named Indre Armalyte, she brings flavors and inspiration from her travels around the world and delivers them straight to patrons at Toli Toli. From shakshouka to falafel (the best I have ever had- really), prepare to be transplanted into an epicurean paradise.

You can find Toli Toli at Vilniaus al. 8 in Druskininkai. To find out more, including their opening hours, check out their Facebook page.

Sicilia Restaurant

Admittedly, Italian food is not one of my favorites. I prefer spices and complex dishes (Indian or Thai) and Italian food is all about the ingredients, most of which are usually terrible if found where I live in Germany. Nevertheless, sometimes you just crave a bowl of pasta. Or a fresh salad. So, we ended up at Sicilia once we realized that the Uzbek restaurant that was set to cure my plov cravings was closed.

I am so glad we ended up at Sicilia because it was a hotspot every time we went inside of it (which was multiple times). Locals were there and it seemed to be the only place around the town that had any sense of life when we were there. The salad, pizza, and chili were absolutely delicious. The beer was affordable, the staff was friendly, and the wifi worked well enough that I worked from the restaurant over lunch one of my days in Druskininkai.

You can find Sicilia Restaurant at M. K. Čiurlionio g. 56 in Druskininkai off of the main drag. To find out more, check out their Facebook page.

Forto Dvaras

Craving Lithuanian food? Don’t worry- Forto Dvaras will hook you up. While I never ate there when in Druskininkai, it does come highly recommended for those looking for some traditional Lithuanian food. This is a chain, however.

You can find Forto Dvaras at Pilies g. 16 in Druskininkai. To find out more information and to view their menu, check out their website.

Where to Grocery Shop

There are a few options around the town depending on where you’re staying, but if you’re in the city center of Druskininkai like we were, your best bet is to go to Iki, which has two locations around Druskininkai. They had everything we needed without any issue.

While they are open late, do be wary of the fact that Lithuania changed alcohol buying laws recently and has become the strictest nation in Europe for purchasing booze.

Lithuania Purchasing and Advertising Alcohol Laws

You can currently buy alcohol at these times: Monday-Saturdays from 1000-2000. Sundays from 1000-1500. You now must be 20 to purchase alcohol in Lithuania (previous age was 18). Anyway, to read more on this (ridiculous) alcohol rule and advertising laws, click here.

Craft Beer in Druskininkai

Unfortunately, the Lithuanian craft beer industry has been halted a bit by these new alcohol laws that affect the advertising of beer in the country. This includes Facebook and other social media (I am rolling my eyes as I write this).

A huge hindrance to small businesses, I admire anyone who is currently careening their way forward despite the obstacles. Fortunately, you can find craft beer in Druskininkai, although not in abundance. You can also find at Toli Toli as noted above under restaurants.

Black Light Brewing Co.

This brewery is based in Druskininkai, but you can’t currently purchase their beer there. But, you can easily find it in Vilnius and Kaunas. I had their Vanilla Marshmallow IPA at Prohibicija in Vilnius and was blown away (I have a soft spot for all things vanilla).

They have been around since October 2016 and have a nice portfolio of beers. They are currently looking to distribute internationally, so if you are reading this and are looking to bring in some Lithuanian beers, please get in touch with them!

To find out more about Black Light Brewing Co., click out their Facebook page.

Gero Skonio Krautuvėlė

Thanks to the recommendation from the brewer at Black Light Brewing Co., we found out that Druskininkai has an actual beer and specialty food shop called Gero Skonio Krautuvėlė. The only craft beer they had when we were there was Dundulis from Panevėžys, but it was fine because the atmosphere was different and it is just nice to be around beer and the people drinking it.

The place seemed to have a lot of regular customers who the bartender knew very well. They also had some incredibly delicious dried fish and meat snacks.

You can find Gero Skonio Krautuvėlė at Druskininkų g. 3 in Druskininkai. To find out more, check out their Facebook page.

Cafes and Coffee in Druskininkai

To be honest, there are quite a few places to grab a coffee in Druskininkai. On the other hand, many are chains. And while I don’t mind supporting chains here and there (I did recommend Forto Dvaras above), if I find a great, independent cafe, you will most certainly see me recommending them. These are my two Druskininkai favorites:

City Coffee

This cafe had both pleasing coffee and an inviting aesthetic. The woman who served us was extremely friendly despite the language barrier and even ordered us a taxi when we left to head to Grutas Park. It was genuinely a pleasant experience all around the board. They also serve small eats and have really great tea! This is the perfect place to get your caffeine fix in Druskininkai.

City Coffee is located at Kudirkos 37 in Druskininkai. To find out more, check out their Facebook page.

Boulangerie

When someone tells me a place has good croissants, I don’t mess around. We were recommended Boulangerie and immediately made our way there the following morning.

The entire place was carb paradise and I got my tasty croissant and could move on with my day in a happy fashion. This is a great place to go to for breakfast (or basically anytime you need your bread fix).

You can find Boulangerie at M. K. Čiurlionio g. 63 in Druskininkai. To find out more, check out their website.

Things to Do in Druskininkai

There are the obvious things… such as going to the Snow Arena or Water Park, but this post isn’t about those places. This is about the things to do outside of those fun parks and outside of the spas that the town is known for. Here are a few things to do in Druskininkai outside of the usual that it is known for:

Visit the Abandoned Spa Nemunas (Sanatorium)

Druskininkai has an abandoned sanatorium that is the second-highest building in the town and has been unoccupied since 2007. I have read about the place for years and everyone says it is such a cool urbex experience. I actually found it a bit ‘meh’, but I am glad I went inside anyway.

You can find openings at many areas of the building but it is constantly being boarded back up. But I can’t fathom it is completely inaccessible at any point as it seems as though people hang out inside all the time. It was completely accessible when we were there and people saw us inside and didn’t seem to mind.

The building is large, so if it is your cup of tea, make sure you give yourself plenty of time. After a while, it all became the same and my interest was no longer piqued. The spa dates back to the 1980s.

Side note: Be very careful and always look up. There are concrete pieces falling from the ceiling constantly and if one falls, it will likely kill you.

Take a Break in the Forest and Countryside

My favorite thing about Lithuania is undoubtedly its forests. I am a sucker for birch trees and dense vegetation in the Baltics and this area does me proud. Druskininkai is completely surrounded by forested land and peaceful lakes. Get out of the town (or really, you can find it within the town, too) and explore them.

There is also a lot of countryside that is untouched and rustic that can be explored. The best thing about Druskininkai is that it is known for its healing properties from the water, but the forest and local areas around it felt just as therapeutic due to the clean air and relaxing nature.

Check out the Soviet Architecture… Before Its Gone

Soviet architecture is becoming an endangered species of its own and no place is proof of this more than the Baltic states. In fact, a lot of Soviet structures no longer exist in Druskininkai. Interestingly enough, the city saved some of the gems. You can actually find part of the Balneological Hospital on the post-Soviet built Druskininkai Aqua Park.

Hang Around Druskonis

In the middle of Druskininkai, there is a large lake called Druskonis. The lake was frozen solid when I was there, but during warmer months, there are paddle boats and sporting events going on in and around the lake. My favorite thing about the lake actually happened to be watching the sunset beside it.

Should You Go to Grutas Park?

No. I am going to be writing a longer post about this soon, but unless you’re a fan of animal abuse and seeing bears in tiny cages going through states of depression, stay away. The park charges each guest a certain amount for visiting the Soviet statues and has decided to put a ‘zoo’ inside of the park.

So, the fee you pay goes to keep these poor animals in captivity. My post will go into more detail… and I have videos and photos of how horrifying it all is.

I very rarely tell people to not do something on their travels. This is the exception. No kitschy statue of Lenin can justify the barbaric treatment of those poor animals and you shouldn’t be an accomplice to it all.

Getting to Druskininkai

Getting from Vilnius or Kaunas to Druskininkai is relatively easy. The tickets are around 10 Euros one way and the journey is really easy from either the Vilnius main bus station or Kaunas main bus station. From Vilnius, the buses leave hourly or so and you can check the schedule here.

From Kaunas, the ride is a little over 2 to 2.5 hours and the ticket is about the same price. The buses leave regularly from the bus station. They speak English at the bus station and you should have no issue finding out more information there.

Have you been to Druskininkai? Is there anything a bit obscure (minus cable cars, aqua park, and snow arena) that you’d recommend to travelers?

The Best Coffee in Kharkiv, Ukraine

November 14 2020 by Megan Starr 15 Comments

In early October, I had the absolute pleasure of visiting the city of Kharkiv in northeast Ukraine.

Before going to a place, I tend to research cafes and other things that interest me. Those of you that are avid readers here know that that usually tends to be craft beer, coffee, and certain types of architecture.

Kharkiv was different. I was traveling to several cities and I really didn’t have the time to plan beyond the obvious sights in any of the cities.

I was very surprised when I arrived in Kharkiv and found a pretty boisterous coffee scene and I didn’t even need to really have my travel coffee kit with me. I knew Lviv, Kyiv, and Odessa had it going on… but I wasn’t quite expecting Kharkiv to have the scene that they did as it isn’t as hyped or spoken about.

And in my four days there, I feel like I did a pretty decent job of exploring it in between seeing other highlights of the city.

This is a guide to the best coffee spots I hit up when I was in Kharkiv.

MR. BOURBON

Talk about a misleading name. But locals know this place, so it was only misleading to me as I was expecting some redneck, southern American bar to be behind the door of the small space. It was anything but. This place was perhaps my favorite coffee spot in all of Kharkiv.

They have a variety of coffee options ranging from Aeropress pourovers to tasty milk coffees. The interior is pug-themed and that is definitely reason enough to stop in.

Mr. Bourbon is located at Kultury Vulytsia 22B and can be accessed easily via Metro station Naukova (Наукова).

A7

UPDATE: Unfortunately, A7 has permanently shut their doors. Tears for days… :(

A7 is kind of like the speakeasy of cafes. That is probably a terrible comparison, but A7 is set apart by its laidback attitude and no-frills space located inside of the theater in Kharkiv. The theater building was my personal favorite in Kharkiv, so imagine my delight when I found a cafe hidden underneath it.

The cafe felt more like a college kid’s living space, with little decor or expenditure on furniture. But this is what gave it the cool vibe it exuded. It didn’t pretend to be something it was not and it sure delivered on the coffee front. And at the end of the day… that is kind of all we need, right?

A7 is located at Sumska Street 25 and can be accessed easily via Metro station Architectora Beketova (Архітектора Бекетова) or Universytet (Університет).

Be sure to check their hours prior to stopping by as they open late. You can find out more about A7 on their Facebook.

CENTRAL CAFE

This is the first cafe I stumbled upon in Kharkiv. I was walking to Derzhprom when I saw this cafe to my left and I decided to head inside to check things out. I saw their pourover options, cute decor, and their beans sourced from Black Honey in Lviv and knew I was destined to stick around for a coffee.

Although I opted for a flat white, I watched the barista pretty closely and it was rather obvious he knew his stuff. Централь, or Central Cafe, has a fun interior and good coffee. It is centrally located, hence the name, to the University and Derzhprom.

Central Cafe is located at Svobody Street 4 and can be reached via Metro station Universytet (Університет). To find out more about Central Cafe, check out their Instagram.

MASTERSKAYA

Masterskaya Coffee is located a nice metro ride away from the part of the city I had kind of planted myself in whilst in Kharkiv. I had heard they had good coffee and wanted to make the trek anyway (which actually wasn’t so far out of the way to an amazing craft beer bar). I was very happy I went.

The cafe is tiny. It sits maybe only three to four patrons, but Masterskaya is a to-go spot. They always had a line and rightfully so as their coffee was extremely good. The baristas were friendly and took their art seriously. If you’re in this area, be sure to grab a to-go cup of joe from these guys.

Masterskaya can be found at Serpnia Vulytsia 23 in a small shop inside of the shopping stalls and market area. It is extremely easy to find. You can reach Masterskaya via Metro Station 23 August (23 Серпня). To find out more, check out their Facebook page.

SOME LIKE IT HOT

This cafe and bar was one of the most unexpected finds on my trip to Kharkiv. I had walked more on the day that I found Some Like it Hot than I have any other day of my life (I wish I were kidding).

I had just made my way through Gorky Park when I found this modern and hip cafe off of Sumska Street. I was desperate to sit down and grab a beer when I realized that this popular cocktail bar was also known for its coffee.

I found myself a seat in a side room in the corner and ordered a flat white despite knowing it would keep me up all night (it was around 9pm at the time). Talk about some unexpectedly stellar coffee. They served the flat white in lightweight Hario glassware and I devoured it.

I was considering ordering a cocktail but they use a lot of syrups in them and I knew I was going to find that unpalatable after the coffee that I was keen on savoring in my mouth for the remainder of the night.

You can find Some Like It Hot at Sumska Street 71. It is very close to Gorky Park or can be found by taking the Metro to the Station Universytet (Університет) and walking uphill Sumska until you see it on the left-hand side. To find out more, check out their Facebook , Website, or Instagram.

PLACES I DIDN’T HAVE TIME TO CHECK OUT

Two places I heard were worth recommending but didn’t have the time to check out was Sweeter and Ehali Medvedi Cafe. If you know anything about either, please feel free to recommend in the comments. I will definitely hit up both next time I am in Kharkiv.

SWEETER

Sweeter can be found at Sumska Street 26. To find out more, check out their Vkontakte page.

EHALI MEDVEDI

Ehali Medvedi is located across the river in a more residential area of Kharkiv, hence the difficulties in incorporating it on my coffee itinerary. I am very gutted about it as it comes so highly recommended.

You can find Ehali Medvedi at Rudneva Square 14/1 in Kharkiv’s Chervonozavodskyi district. They can be reached via Metro Station Haharina (Проспект Гагаріна). I was unable to locate a working website from them.

Tallinn Cafes: Where to Find The Best Coffee in Tallinn, Estonia

October 31 2020 by Megan Starr 3 Comments

I have been to Tallinn several times throughout the years. The city is ever-changing and always presents me with something new, even if I never properly explored it the way I like to explore cities until my most recent trip. I had heard that Tallinn’s coffee scene had really exploded in recent years and I knew that it would be remiss of me to not do proper research for myself to see what was happening there now.

I had some decent coffee in Tallinn years back, but nothing that blew my mind, especially as someone living in Oslo where cafes and good coffee was ubiquitous. Fortunately, this trip changed all and I can honestly say that the cafes in Tallinn are serving super delicious coffee. This is a guide to the best coffee in Tallinn, Estonia.

KOHver

Did you know… that you can sip on incredible coffee without even leaving the airport in Tallinn? KOHver has been a Tallinn International Airport staple for about six years, but I didn’t discover it until just this trip because I am usually running through the airport upon arrival or I am coming in by bus, ferry, or train.

The café has multiple locations inside of Tallinn’s airport and the name is a play on words mixing the Estonian words for café and suitcase. The tables at the café within the terminal are actually suitcases and old luggage and the entire concept is really pretty unique. The café also sells a lot of Estonian designed goods.

Famed Johan & Nyström (Sweden) trained KOHver years ago to help establish Tallinn’s specialty coffee scene. Currently, KOHver sells beans from Johan & Nyström and they also carry a special edition ‘Estonia 100 Years Independence’ omni roast coffee roasted and sold by Rocket Bean Roastery down in Riga, Latvia (my favorite café and roaster in the city actually).

You can find KOHver at two locations inside of the Tallinn International Airport. For more information, check out their Facebook page.

The Living Room Café

The Living Room Café is a popular café right on the edge of Tallinn’s Old Town and is a definite asset to the coffee scene in Tallinn. I tend to like very hipster, minimalistic cafes these days, but something about the coziness of the couches and atmosphere inside made me long to stay in there and never leave.

The coffee was also so good that it was tempting! I ordered an Ethiopian Yirgacheffe that they had. It was well made and gave me the energy boost I needed (to eventually rock around town doing my ‘craft beer research’). The staff was so friendly and interactive that I am certain The Living Room Café would become a regular haunt of mine if I lived in Tallinn.

You can find The Living Room Café at Pärnu maantee 9 in Tallinn. For more information, check out their Facebook page.

Surf Café

Surf Café is a small coffee stand inside of Balti Jaama, an old marketplace turned super hip food hall with the best offerings anywhere in Tallinn. We weren’t on the hunt for coffee when we stumbled upon Surf Café, but we were stoked to find it and I grabbed a flat white to go to give it a quick test.

The stand had a long line of adults ordering their coffees while their children opted for ice cream (the café served both). The barista was so friendly and interested in what we were doing in Tallinn and how we found Surf Café. I actually had had some lousy coffee prior to the stop here and told him that- he was really excited when I tasted the flat white and told him Tallinn had redeemed itself as a coffee city at that moment. Definitely a recommended place to check out for coffee lovers in Tallinn.

PS: Any cafe that serves palatable coffee alongside ice cream should basically win a gold medal in awesomeness, right?

You can find Surf Café inside of Balti Jaama (first floor) at Kopli 1 in Tallinn. To find out more, check out their Website or Facebook page.

Kohvik August

Located in the heart of Tallinn’s Old Town is Kohvik August, an adorable cafe and coffee shop just brimming with color and personality. We went there early on a Saturday morning and about thirty minutes after our arrival, the place became packed. The tourists love this café, but so do the locals. It really is one of the best places to go for a quick bite to eat and delicious coffee in Tallinn.

I ordered a Chemex that came out perfectly made and I just enjoyed sitting in an atmosphere that seemed to ignite my creativity. This is definitely one of Tallinn’s best cafes and one I could see myself spending a lot of time in if I lived there.

You can find Kohvik August at Väike-Karja 5 in the Old Town of Tallinn. To find out more, check out their Website or Facebook page.

Røst

Oh. My. Goodness. This place. We walked in and were stopped in our traffic by the smells and how incredible the baked goods looked. I have never in my life seen cinnamon buns and pastries look so appetizing and fresh (and I have previously worked in a bakery café in Oslo). I tend to get sick if I eat sweets in the morning, so I had my partner taste one (confirmed that it was awesome) while I enjoyed a flat white.

Røst prides itself on a Scandinavian, cozy atmosphere inside while delivering on coffee and baked goods. They excelled and then some. Everything they served surpassed anything I have tasted in Scandinavia. But this guide is about coffee. And their coffee was delicious. Highly recommended as one of the best cafes in Tallinn.

You can find Røst at Rotermanni 14 in Rotermanni Kvartal in Tallinn. To find out more, check out their Website or Facebook page.

Kokomo Coffee Roasters

Kokomo has been around for a while, but they only recently (like a few weeks ago!) opened their café inside of the same space as Sfäär Resto, a place I actually enjoyed breakfast and a craft beer at on my first trip to Estonia several years ago. Kokomo’s vision is to develop the coffee culture in Estonia and after tasting their beans and the coffee I had at their new location, I totally believe they are achieving what they have set out to do.

Kokomo started out as a pop-up on Koguva on Muhu Island in 2013, hence the marine branding and design. They continuously developed their product and brand and are now a recognizable roaster and bean in Tallinn and beyond. Their new place with Sfäär Resto is a can’t-miss for coffee lovers in Tallinn. While at Kokomo, I enjoyed a flat white, but they have several coffee options available. It was rather late in the day, so I decided to play it safe!

You can find Kokomo Coffee Roasters at Mere pst 6E in Rotermanni Kvartal in Tallinn. To find out more, check out their Website or Facebook page.

Nordic Design Home

Have you ever heard about a place at the last minute, nearly rushed to get there only to find out that it was closed and you’d never be able to try their amazing coffee? Yea, that is Nordic Design Home for me. Funny thing is, I passed this shop when I was wandering around Tallinn. I remember gazing over at it on that Saturday morning and wanting to pop in because I love Nordic design (I guess I have living in Oslo to thank for that).

But, I wandered along a bit more and never went inside. A few days later, I went to The Living Room Café and they gave me the recommendation to head to Nordic Design Home for some of the city’s best coffee. What?! About to head that way, my partner and I checked their hours only to realize that they were closed that day and we didn’t have another day in Tallinn to test it out. But based on recommendations, they definitely deserve a place on this list.

Nordic Design Home uses beans from Rocket Bean Roastery down in Riga, one of my personal favorites, and they have a top-of-the-line La Marzocco Linea PB in-house. All drinks come standard as a double shot and they even sell some small eats at the cafe. I can’t wait to finally make it here on my next trip to Tallinn and test it out for myself!

You can find Nordic Design Home at Kopli 6 in Tallinn. To find out more information, check out their Website or Facebook page. Photos below provided by Nordic Design Home.

Uba ja Humal

Strangely enough, I went into Uba ja Humal for craft beer. I had no intents of having a coffee. Heck, I didn’t even know they served coffee (yes, my Estonian sucks if you are laughing at me right now… I do know what uba ja humal means now). But they do serve coffee and I had some and it was pretty good. Their beans are sourced from The Barn in Berlin and while I definitely think that craft beer is their strength, the coffee was good and several patrons walked in just for a cup of the stuff.

This is the only place I’ve ever been able to put on both a coffee guide AND a craft beer guide (coming soon!), so I definitely am pretty excited about that. Anyway, this is a great place for coffee in Tallinn… and you can even squeeze in a beer or two after your caffeine fix.

You can find Uba ja Humal at Võrgu 3 in Tallinn. To find out more, check out their Facebook page.

Brick Roastery / Restoran Trühvel

Another place I, unfortunately, missed while in Tallinn was Restoran Trühvel in Telliskivi Creative City. The restaurant that is inspired by Mediterranean food is also known for their really delicious coffee from Brick Roastery, a roastery that shares space with them in Telliskivi.

While I haven’t been there myself, some of the owners of the above cafes highly recommended the place and its coffee, so it would be remiss of me to not put it on here as I know the sources are legit and know Tallinn coffee. Added to my ‘next time in Tallinn’ files. And aside from their coffee, they are also regarded as one of the best places to eat in Tallinn.

You can find Brick Roastery and Restoran Trühvel at Telliskivi 60 in Tallinn. To find out more, check out their Website or Facebook page.

Gourmet Coffee

The mothership of craft coffee in Tallinn- Gourmet Coffee. They currently have three locations and are credited with starting the specialty coffee trend in the Estonian capital. While I didn’t have a chance to pop by any location on this trip, but I do know they have great coffee and come recommended by several locals. To find out more, including their locations, check out their Website or Facebook page.

Honorable Mention

Unfortunately, I am only one person when it comes to tasting coffee and I like being able to share a list that encompasses a lot of different tastes. But sometimes, I just don’t care for a place or I think they may have had an off day. I rarely put anyone on the ‘honorable mention list’ unless others confirm my thoughts.

T35 Bakery & Specialty Coffee

I was so excited about this Russian-owned cafe in Kalamaja. I had heard that they had decent coffee and tasty baked goods. When we walked in, we saw a buzzing cafe (with dogs= huge plus) and nice staff. Where I could have gone wrong was that I deviated from the menu. I ordered a cortado/flat white because I didn’t want to drink black coffee if tasting a lot of different coffees that day (I have been struggling with headaches lately).

The beans they serve are high quality and all come from Amsterdam. Sadly, the coffee’s milk was burnt and it was completely unpalatable. I left it almost full. I was going to put them on this list anyway as I figured it was a one-off thing, but I heard from other cafes that their coffee isn’t anything to write home about. Anyway, the cafe was really nice and I would go back there and give it another shot… or maybe just stick to the baked goods (which were delicious!)

You can find more about T35 Bakery & Specialty Coffee at Tööstuse 35 in Kalamaja in Tallinn.

BJÖRN Espresso Bar

Well, this place is no longer open. But, they are reopening a space in May 2018, so be on the lookout Tallinn coffee lovers! I fully intend on visiting it when back and hopefully getting it added to this list. To find out more, check out their Facebook page.

Renard Speed Shop

I have heard that this coffee shop and speed shop was incredible. Unfortunately, the cafe part was told to vacate and it is now just a speed shop under renovation (this is what I was told). But, due to its popularity, I am hoping that it reopens or a pop-up shows up somewhere in the city where the amazing coffee can still reach lovers of the stuff. If that happens, I’ll be the first to return! To follow their happenings, check out their Facebook page.

What is your favorite cafe in Tallinn? Please leave a comment below and let me know so I can add it to the list to check out next time I am in the city!

*Special thanks to Visit Estonia for hosting me in Tallinn in the #storytellersnest. Was so much fun to make this coffee guide about a city I am so passionate about!

Note: When I am on the road, I always bring a Keep Cup with me and an Aeropress with all of its accessories. While I love supporting local cafes and independent businesses, it can get expensive after a while if you travel as much as I do! You can shop my travel coffee kit below, including stainless steel straws for cold brews.

SHOP MY TRAVEL COFFEE KIT:

A Travel Guide to Soviet Dnipro, Ukraine

October 31 2020 by Megan Starr 15 Comments

Most travelers familiar with Eastern Europe are aware that the farther east you head in any of those countries, the more ‘Russified’ the place becomes. This doesn’t necessarily stand true for Central Europe or the Balkans, two regions often classified as Eastern Europe (and it kind of bothers me), but rather for Ukraine, Belarus, the Baltics, and the tiny country of Moldova.

I find it fascinating that cities in one country can be so completely different from one another. Perhaps that is why I love this region- it is as diverse architecturally as it is cultural. Dnipro, formerly Dnipropetrovsk, is no different. It is situated along the banks of the Dnieper in the eastern part of Ukraine. Dnipro has some new buildings, like the Menorah Centre (for Jewish Culture). Dnipro has some old buildings, like Potemkin’s Palace, the oldest building in the city. And then Dnipro has its Soviet structures. This is a guide to them. This is a guide to Soviet Dnipro.

This isn’t to say that this list is conclusive of all Soviet structures, buildings, and points of interest around Dnipro. These are ones I personally visited or gained interest in. If you walk down Karl Marx Prospect, a long avenue that constitutes Dnipro’s city centre, you will find the entire street saturated with bouts of Socialist Realism from the Stalin era. Trust me, you can’t miss it.

This list is more about showcasing individual buildings/structures and ones I feel are worthy of a visit if you are interested in the history of the Soviet Union or have a passion for obscure architecture. I am not giving out any transportation information on this one as I did with my Kiev guide, simply for the sheer fact that the majority of these are within walking distance of one another. I also did not give specific addresses as some of these are so abandoned that it is just easier to use the mobile unresponsive map (seriously, thanks Google) provided above.

LAZAR GLOBA SUMMER THEATRE

What an odd structure this one is. Built in 1978, this theatre is one of the symbols of Dnipro, despite not really being able to find out too much about it from a traveler’s perspective. The locals refer to it as ‘the shell’. The theatre can be found inside of Lazar Globa Park. Soviet architecture aside, this park is worth a visit for Dnipro’s visitors. During the warmer months, you will find cotton candy, cafes, kids running around, theme park rides, a lake filled with swans and little boats, and of course, your standard motorized Hot Wheels-esque cars for kids to enjoy at an affordable price.

PIONEERS PALACE

What good would a Soviet architecture list be without a Pioneers Palace on there? Dnipro’s Pioneers Palace actually is a newer addition to the city having just opened its doors in 1990. I never made it down to the grounds itself, but instead saw it from above with power lines obstructing my view. Next time I am in the city I will get a better glimpse at the place.

POPLAVOK RESTAURANT

UFO looking restaurant? Check. On an industrial river? Check. Another famed Soviet structure lurking in the background? Check. Poplavok Restaurant is a restaurant/lounge that sits atop the Dnieper and is a very renowned place in Dnipro. Construction on this restaurant began in 1976 and it is still in operation today. Depending on what side of the restaurant’s pier you stand on, you get a different view. I think I preferred the angle with Hotel Parus in the background.

HOTEL PARUS

As a foreigner, if I was to envision one building that was a symbol of Dnipro, I would envision this one. Abandoned and haunting, Hotel Parus stands as a symbol of what could have been for this city. This hotel was built by the Soviets and construction ceased when funding ran dry. It has been left to rot on the shores of the Dnieper ever since.

Hotel Parus was open to the public until just a year or so ago. Evidently, teens went up there to drink and get rowdy and there was more than one incident of a teen falling to their death inside the structure. It was also rumored that the Dnipropetrovsk Maniacs took refuge here years ago throughout their killing spree.

You can get inside of Hotel Parus today if you’re willing to bribe the guards. No thanks. If open to the public again, I’d love to climb to the top to get that spectacular view of the city I have seen so many photos of. Nevertheless, there is no telling how long Hotel Parus will grace the Dnieper’s shores in Dnipro… there is constant talk of tearing it down as it serves little purpose to a community desperately trying to rid themselves of all things Soviet. We shall see…

MONASTYRSKIY ISLAND

Taras Shevchenko Park has two parts to it- one is on an island called Monastyrskiy Island and one is on the mainland where the city is. I didn’t explore too deeply on the mainland part but did spend a lot of time on Monastyrskiy Island. It was Women’s Day when I was in Dnipro and the city sure didn’t disappoint with festivals, activities, and celebrations. The park has a church, old restaurants, marina, theme park, etc.

In reality, this park and island aren’t Soviet at all. It dates back long before the Soviet Union was even close to being in existence. But, there are remnants of the Soviet Union scattered throughout the park whether it be a restaurant, shashlik joint, Ferris wheel, or its zoo. I stopped for a beer inside of an overgrown kiosk and shashlik joint that had a massive mural of Khor Virap in Armenia as its bar backdrop. This island is definitely a can’t miss for an afternoon stroll.

RESTAURANT MAYAK

I really do not know too much about this building except that you can get a nice glimpse of it leaving Monastyrskiy Island. Once you catch that first glimpse, it will leave you a bit intrigued. Designed by Elvina Davydova, I actually can’t find information anywhere confirming if this place is still open or not. Some sites give hours for it (daily from 0800-2000) and then others have nothing. I’d be curious to find out when I get back there.

LENIN PALACE OF CULTURE ‘ILYICH’

Perhaps one of the better-known sites for ‘zabroshki’, or urban exploration in Dnipro, this beauty opened in 1932 and has been left abandoned and to nature since 2000. It is a commonplace for locals to visit… it even has its own Instagram account and Facebook page. Atlas Obscura just released a post about it less than a month ago, getting the word out there even more. It is also home to a yearly arts festival called the Construction Festival (the city gives permission for this to occur).

Palace of Culture Ilyich in Dnipro, Ukraine

ROCKET PARK

Rocket Park is small and there is not much to do or see there. But the reason that Dnipro was closed off during the years of the Soviet Union was that the city is home to missile manufacturer, Yuzhmash. The missiles and parts manufactured in Dnipro were used in the famous Space Race between the USA and the Soviet Union as well as preparation for a Cold War turns Nuclear War.

The reason my middle school had bomb shelters was that of what was produced at Yuzhmash (and I’m sure they had something to the contrary in regards to the missile production in my country). Rocket Park is not located where Yuzhmash is, but rather in the center of Dnipro. Today there are some rockets on display and memorials to soldiers recently deceased from the Russia-Ukraine conflict.

OLD CIRCUS

Most people don’t realize this, but Dnipro has two circus buildings. The very famous one is still in use today, but the old one is gated up and has been left abandoned. You really can’t find much information out there about it, and I actually didn’t even know if it was still standing before going on a quest to find it. But it is still there, rotting away. While I would have liked to have gone inside, I am certain it was guarded and I have read that nothing is left of the place and the inside is far less captivating than its outside.

The Old Circus building opened with an act from the Belarusian circus on June 23, 1960. The architect behind it was Vladimir Zhukov and it was built in the typical Stalinesque architecture one can find littering Dnipro. This circus remained Dnipro’s only until 1980 when the new building by the river took over all shows as the old building had no heating and was limited to having performances solely in the warmer months. You can find the Old Circus in front of the city market “Ozerka”.

NEW CIRCUS

The new circus building in Dnipro opened in 1980 and is still in use today. It has a capacity of 1,914.

ACCOMMODATION FOR CIRCUS ARTISTS

A construction project that began in 1985, this very brutal structure was the brainchild of Oleg Tchmona and is situated directly beside Dnipro’s new circus building. I have to admit, I had no idea what it was, but it fascinated me. I stayed next door to it and saw it nearly six times a day when in Dnipro and grew more and more mystified by it. I found that I was more into this building than the new circus building itself.

Dnipro is completely overshadowed by Kiev, and rightfully so. Kiev is one of the greatest cities I have ever been to and there is a plethora of things to do in Kyiv. Nothing in Ukraine compares. But, Dnipro definitely warrants more tourism than it deserves. Soviet architecture enthusiasts will have a field day there. There is definitely a cool, modern, and hip side to the city, on the other hand… and I plan to write about that soon. In the meantime, I hope that if you’re into Ukraine and Soviet Modernism that this post finds you well.