Estonia

Tallinn to Helsinki Ferry: Cruising Across the Baltic Sea with Tallink Megastar

November 14 2020 by Megan Starr 2 Comments

It took me eight years of living in Europe to take a Baltic ferry. I have visited the Baltics and Nordics so many times (I mean, I lived in Norway for four years!), but I never seemed to hop aboard a ship and sail to my next destination; it was all about the plane journey. In January, I randomly ended up in Tallinn after a Baltic storm canceled my ferry to Helsinki in the Åland Islands.

This took me to Tallinn. I took the Tallinn to Helsinki ferry with Tallink Silja and it was wonderful… except I ended up queasy and seasick. Fast forward two months and I found myself back on a Tallinn Helsinki ferry with Tallink Silja Line… this time determined to experience the journey to its fullest and not as a seasick, tired traveler.

This post will discuss why you should take the Tallink Megastar in between Helsinki and Tallinn and why you should treat yourself to an upgrade to Comfort Class or Business Class while on the ship!

Part of my reasoning for never taking the Helsinki Tallinn ferry was because I assumed it would be extremely expensive. As it turns out, I couldn’t have been more wrong. In fact, even upgrading your trip to Comfort Class or Business Class is pretty affordable and the amenities are worth it.

I was really interested in showcasing the different luxuries and amenities of each type of upgrade on this Tallinn – Helsinki trip as I think they are both really viable and smart options for travelers depending on what you are doing in either city.

Another big thing I wanted to do was I wanted to cruise along the Tallink Megastar ship, the new ship from Tallink Silja that was built in January 2017. Why did I want to sail with the Megastar? Well, let’s just say that when I first saw the name, I thought it was my name and I was confused.

Then, I threw my glasses on and reread the ship’s name and got a bit giddy. If it wasn’t my destiny to travel from Tallinn to Helsinki aboard a ship with basically the same name as me, I don’t know what is.

About the Tallink Silja Line

Tallink Silja Line has two brands that operate under it: Tallink and Silja Line. The Silja Line goes in between Finland and Sweden. Tallink operates the routes in between the Nordics and Baltics. The Helsinki – Tallinn ferry route that I took was part of Tallink.

The Tallink Megastar is the newest ship from Tallink for the Tallinn – Helsinki ferry route, but you can also go aboard the Star across the Baltic. Both ships will get you from city to city within a mere two hours… regardless of weather.

I find it absolutely incredible that ships can go through the patches of ice that were on the Baltic, but it did with ease and the ship was stabilized so well that I never felt a thing. It is so remarkable how smooth the ride was.

About the Tallink Megastar

The Megastar was built by LNG in January 2017 and its inaugural voyage across the Baltic took place on January 29, 2017. The ship is such an engineering feat and I was so happy to get a chance to experience it on different levels of passenger classes as it gave me a chance to check out the entire ship. There are up to 7 trips a day in between Tallinn and Helsinki and as mentioned before, the ship goes in all weather.

Watching the ship glide so smoothly through the ice was one of the coolest experiences of my life. The schedule for the Tallink ships just so happens to let you head to the other city for merely a day trip. While I decided to stay overnight, in hindsight, I should have done the trip to Helsinki from Tallinn as a day trip as my accommodation in Helsinki was horrible.

Eco-Friendly Way to Cruise

One of my favorite things about the Megastar is that it is a much more eco-friendly ship than any of the others I have seen sailing across the Baltics. I am trying to focus a bit more on my carbon footprint these days. The Megastar’s CO2 emissions are 40% lower than that of other ships.

Considering it hauled over 2 million passengers in its first year, this is a really promising and refreshing number and I hope that the Megastar sets the benchmark for modern-day cruises and ships.

On Board the Megastar

I was so stunned at how many things existed on the ship. You don’t really get a good idea of it until you wander around… and get a little bit lost! I stumbled across a Burger King, bars and lounges, duty-free shops, several restaurants, gambling areas, decks overlooking the water, a cabin area, etc.

It was insane! I was totally taken aback at how the ship caters to every single passenger. The cabins are also there to host the four-legged passengers (let’s be honest- the best kind of passenger).

Here are some photos of my wonder about:

Tallink Comfort Lounge

On my Tallinn Helsinki ferry, I had a ticket for the Comfort Lounge. This is only a €20 upgrade compared to the usual price, and it is well worth it, in my opinion. I have to admit, I didn’t really see the advantage at first when I walked inside.

You receive complimentary veggie slices, chips and small eats, soda, and coffee and tea. But I wasn’t 100% sure that this was worth the upgrade fee of €20. I enjoyed some snacks and a coffee and then went for a stroll around the ship.

Ahhhhhh…. so this is why that upgrade is worth it. You have a relaxing space and it is pretty quiet. The rest of the ship was busier, teeming with children, etc. There is nothing wrong with this, but our ship departed the Tallinn Ferry Terminal at 0730 and I really couldn’t think of anything worse than being around a lot of people.

I was able to enjoy my Comfort Lounge seat by the window in peace, while I downed Therma-Flu (I was in the process of getting the flu). It was such a relaxing experience and the sunrise view we got of Tallinn was absolutely awe-inspiring.

The Comfort Lounge is located on Deck 8 and has televisions, power outlets, bathrooms, a bar with drinks and sandwiches and small eats (prices not included in ticket), and WiFi. To take a virtual tour of the Comfort Lounge on the Megastar, click here.

These products above are all Estonian products or products produced for the 100th year anniversary of Estonia’s independence. YES- you can even buy craft beer on board. How awesome is that!? And Estonia makes amazing craft beer… just in case you haven’t heard me rave about it in the past.

Tallink Business Lounge

One of my coolest experiences on the road (err… by boat?) has to be my trip in the Tallink Business Lounge aboard the Megastar. I did this trip in January and was sick the entire time. This time, I had Business Lounge access from Helsinki to Tallinn and I was determined to not be seasick for it. Well, out with seasickness and in with the flu. But I wasn’t going to allow that to ruin my trip.

The Tallink Business Lounge is also located on Deck 8 (and directly after you board the ship so you don’t have to maneuver about the boat trying to find a place to call home for the next two hours!) The best part about being in the Business Lounge is that you get unlimited food, both hot and cold, and drinks. Alcoholic drinks.

For anyone who knows the price of beer in Finland, this is a major score. You are able to eat an entire meal with top-quality food while sipping on champagne. They even have vegan options.

You can make yourself a cocktail, pour yourself a beer, or take advantage of the premium WiFi in the lounge which is significantly faster than the regular WiFi throughout the ship. There is a room for printing with a nice desk, lounge chairs, televisions, and bathrooms inside the Lounge.

The Lounge chairs have a killer view and it is seriously worth the upgrade fee of €65 alone. If you have a car onboard, you automatically get Priority service and can exit the ship first with your vehicle, which is a major timesaver.

While I was sick with the flu while inside the Business Lounge, my partner wandered about the ship to check things out again and came back saying, “Thank goodness we are here… the ship is packed.” The Helsinki to Tallinn ferry that we were on was packed with workers from Latvia, Lithuania, and Estonia returning home from their jobs in the Nordics and the boat was pretty full as a result.

I am claustrophobic and while the Megastar is massive, I really do like having my own space and not feeling too close to other people. The Business Lounge gave me the comfort that I needed that day. To take a virtual tour of the Business Lounge on the Tallink Megastar, click here.

The Tallinn Helsinki Ferry with Tallink changed my perception about trips across the Baltic via boat. As I get older, I find myself more stressed out on planes and in airports, and I never felt any of that discomfort or anxiety throughout the entire process of getting from Tallinn to Helsinki and back from Helsinki to Tallinn.

While there really isn’t a bad seat on the ship, I do recommend treating yourself to an upgrade in the Comfort Lounge or Business Lounge depending on which one is right for you on your day of departure. After having those experiences and luxuries onboard, I would definitely pay the extra surcharge for added comfort. And… THOSE VIEWS!

To book your journey from Tallinn to Helsinki with Tallink, click here.

Have you ever taken a cruise or ferry? How about one through the Baltic Sea? Please let me know how your experience was in the comments!

*Mega THANKS to Tallink Silja for hosting my partner and me on a ship with (almost) the same name when we were traveling between Helsinki and Tallinn. All opinions and experiences stated above are my own. Except for everyone I probably infected with the flu while in Helsinki (sorry!)

Tallinn Cafes: Where to Find The Best Coffee in Tallinn, Estonia

October 31 2020 by Megan Starr 3 Comments

I have been to Tallinn several times throughout the years. The city is ever-changing and always presents me with something new, even if I never properly explored it the way I like to explore cities until my most recent trip. I had heard that Tallinn’s coffee scene had really exploded in recent years and I knew that it would be remiss of me to not do proper research for myself to see what was happening there now.

I had some decent coffee in Tallinn years back, but nothing that blew my mind, especially as someone living in Oslo where cafes and good coffee was ubiquitous. Fortunately, this trip changed all and I can honestly say that the cafes in Tallinn are serving super delicious coffee. This is a guide to the best coffee in Tallinn, Estonia.

KOHver

Did you know… that you can sip on incredible coffee without even leaving the airport in Tallinn? KOHver has been a Tallinn International Airport staple for about six years, but I didn’t discover it until just this trip because I am usually running through the airport upon arrival or I am coming in by bus, ferry, or train.

The café has multiple locations inside of Tallinn’s airport and the name is a play on words mixing the Estonian words for café and suitcase. The tables at the café within the terminal are actually suitcases and old luggage and the entire concept is really pretty unique. The café also sells a lot of Estonian designed goods.

Famed Johan & Nyström (Sweden) trained KOHver years ago to help establish Tallinn’s specialty coffee scene. Currently, KOHver sells beans from Johan & Nyström and they also carry a special edition ‘Estonia 100 Years Independence’ omni roast coffee roasted and sold by Rocket Bean Roastery down in Riga, Latvia (my favorite café and roaster in the city actually).

You can find KOHver at two locations inside of the Tallinn International Airport. For more information, check out their Facebook page.

The Living Room Café

The Living Room Café is a popular café right on the edge of Tallinn’s Old Town and is a definite asset to the coffee scene in Tallinn. I tend to like very hipster, minimalistic cafes these days, but something about the coziness of the couches and atmosphere inside made me long to stay in there and never leave.

The coffee was also so good that it was tempting! I ordered an Ethiopian Yirgacheffe that they had. It was well made and gave me the energy boost I needed (to eventually rock around town doing my ‘craft beer research’). The staff was so friendly and interactive that I am certain The Living Room Café would become a regular haunt of mine if I lived in Tallinn.

You can find The Living Room Café at Pärnu maantee 9 in Tallinn. For more information, check out their Facebook page.

Surf Café

Surf Café is a small coffee stand inside of Balti Jaama, an old marketplace turned super hip food hall with the best offerings anywhere in Tallinn. We weren’t on the hunt for coffee when we stumbled upon Surf Café, but we were stoked to find it and I grabbed a flat white to go to give it a quick test.

The stand had a long line of adults ordering their coffees while their children opted for ice cream (the café served both). The barista was so friendly and interested in what we were doing in Tallinn and how we found Surf Café. I actually had had some lousy coffee prior to the stop here and told him that- he was really excited when I tasted the flat white and told him Tallinn had redeemed itself as a coffee city at that moment. Definitely a recommended place to check out for coffee lovers in Tallinn.

PS: Any cafe that serves palatable coffee alongside ice cream should basically win a gold medal in awesomeness, right?

You can find Surf Café inside of Balti Jaama (first floor) at Kopli 1 in Tallinn. To find out more, check out their Website or Facebook page.

Kohvik August

Located in the heart of Tallinn’s Old Town is Kohvik August, an adorable cafe and coffee shop just brimming with color and personality. We went there early on a Saturday morning and about thirty minutes after our arrival, the place became packed. The tourists love this café, but so do the locals. It really is one of the best places to go for a quick bite to eat and delicious coffee in Tallinn.

I ordered a Chemex that came out perfectly made and I just enjoyed sitting in an atmosphere that seemed to ignite my creativity. This is definitely one of Tallinn’s best cafes and one I could see myself spending a lot of time in if I lived there.

You can find Kohvik August at Väike-Karja 5 in the Old Town of Tallinn. To find out more, check out their Website or Facebook page.

Røst

Oh. My. Goodness. This place. We walked in and were stopped in our traffic by the smells and how incredible the baked goods looked. I have never in my life seen cinnamon buns and pastries look so appetizing and fresh (and I have previously worked in a bakery café in Oslo). I tend to get sick if I eat sweets in the morning, so I had my partner taste one (confirmed that it was awesome) while I enjoyed a flat white.

Røst prides itself on a Scandinavian, cozy atmosphere inside while delivering on coffee and baked goods. They excelled and then some. Everything they served surpassed anything I have tasted in Scandinavia. But this guide is about coffee. And their coffee was delicious. Highly recommended as one of the best cafes in Tallinn.

You can find Røst at Rotermanni 14 in Rotermanni Kvartal in Tallinn. To find out more, check out their Website or Facebook page.

Kokomo Coffee Roasters

Kokomo has been around for a while, but they only recently (like a few weeks ago!) opened their café inside of the same space as Sfäär Resto, a place I actually enjoyed breakfast and a craft beer at on my first trip to Estonia several years ago. Kokomo’s vision is to develop the coffee culture in Estonia and after tasting their beans and the coffee I had at their new location, I totally believe they are achieving what they have set out to do.

Kokomo started out as a pop-up on Koguva on Muhu Island in 2013, hence the marine branding and design. They continuously developed their product and brand and are now a recognizable roaster and bean in Tallinn and beyond. Their new place with Sfäär Resto is a can’t-miss for coffee lovers in Tallinn. While at Kokomo, I enjoyed a flat white, but they have several coffee options available. It was rather late in the day, so I decided to play it safe!

You can find Kokomo Coffee Roasters at Mere pst 6E in Rotermanni Kvartal in Tallinn. To find out more, check out their Website or Facebook page.

Nordic Design Home

Have you ever heard about a place at the last minute, nearly rushed to get there only to find out that it was closed and you’d never be able to try their amazing coffee? Yea, that is Nordic Design Home for me. Funny thing is, I passed this shop when I was wandering around Tallinn. I remember gazing over at it on that Saturday morning and wanting to pop in because I love Nordic design (I guess I have living in Oslo to thank for that).

But, I wandered along a bit more and never went inside. A few days later, I went to The Living Room Café and they gave me the recommendation to head to Nordic Design Home for some of the city’s best coffee. What?! About to head that way, my partner and I checked their hours only to realize that they were closed that day and we didn’t have another day in Tallinn to test it out. But based on recommendations, they definitely deserve a place on this list.

Nordic Design Home uses beans from Rocket Bean Roastery down in Riga, one of my personal favorites, and they have a top-of-the-line La Marzocco Linea PB in-house. All drinks come standard as a double shot and they even sell some small eats at the cafe. I can’t wait to finally make it here on my next trip to Tallinn and test it out for myself!

You can find Nordic Design Home at Kopli 6 in Tallinn. To find out more information, check out their Website or Facebook page. Photos below provided by Nordic Design Home.

Uba ja Humal

Strangely enough, I went into Uba ja Humal for craft beer. I had no intents of having a coffee. Heck, I didn’t even know they served coffee (yes, my Estonian sucks if you are laughing at me right now… I do know what uba ja humal means now). But they do serve coffee and I had some and it was pretty good. Their beans are sourced from The Barn in Berlin and while I definitely think that craft beer is their strength, the coffee was good and several patrons walked in just for a cup of the stuff.

This is the only place I’ve ever been able to put on both a coffee guide AND a craft beer guide (coming soon!), so I definitely am pretty excited about that. Anyway, this is a great place for coffee in Tallinn… and you can even squeeze in a beer or two after your caffeine fix.

You can find Uba ja Humal at Võrgu 3 in Tallinn. To find out more, check out their Facebook page.

Brick Roastery / Restoran Trühvel

Another place I, unfortunately, missed while in Tallinn was Restoran Trühvel in Telliskivi Creative City. The restaurant that is inspired by Mediterranean food is also known for their really delicious coffee from Brick Roastery, a roastery that shares space with them in Telliskivi.

While I haven’t been there myself, some of the owners of the above cafes highly recommended the place and its coffee, so it would be remiss of me to not put it on here as I know the sources are legit and know Tallinn coffee. Added to my ‘next time in Tallinn’ files. And aside from their coffee, they are also regarded as one of the best places to eat in Tallinn.

You can find Brick Roastery and Restoran Trühvel at Telliskivi 60 in Tallinn. To find out more, check out their Website or Facebook page.

Gourmet Coffee

The mothership of craft coffee in Tallinn- Gourmet Coffee. They currently have three locations and are credited with starting the specialty coffee trend in the Estonian capital. While I didn’t have a chance to pop by any location on this trip, but I do know they have great coffee and come recommended by several locals. To find out more, including their locations, check out their Website or Facebook page.

Honorable Mention

Unfortunately, I am only one person when it comes to tasting coffee and I like being able to share a list that encompasses a lot of different tastes. But sometimes, I just don’t care for a place or I think they may have had an off day. I rarely put anyone on the ‘honorable mention list’ unless others confirm my thoughts.

T35 Bakery & Specialty Coffee

I was so excited about this Russian-owned cafe in Kalamaja. I had heard that they had decent coffee and tasty baked goods. When we walked in, we saw a buzzing cafe (with dogs= huge plus) and nice staff. Where I could have gone wrong was that I deviated from the menu. I ordered a cortado/flat white because I didn’t want to drink black coffee if tasting a lot of different coffees that day (I have been struggling with headaches lately).

The beans they serve are high quality and all come from Amsterdam. Sadly, the coffee’s milk was burnt and it was completely unpalatable. I left it almost full. I was going to put them on this list anyway as I figured it was a one-off thing, but I heard from other cafes that their coffee isn’t anything to write home about. Anyway, the cafe was really nice and I would go back there and give it another shot… or maybe just stick to the baked goods (which were delicious!)

You can find more about T35 Bakery & Specialty Coffee at Tööstuse 35 in Kalamaja in Tallinn.

BJÖRN Espresso Bar

Well, this place is no longer open. But, they are reopening a space in May 2018, so be on the lookout Tallinn coffee lovers! I fully intend on visiting it when back and hopefully getting it added to this list. To find out more, check out their Facebook page.

Renard Speed Shop

I have heard that this coffee shop and speed shop was incredible. Unfortunately, the cafe part was told to vacate and it is now just a speed shop under renovation (this is what I was told). But, due to its popularity, I am hoping that it reopens or a pop-up shows up somewhere in the city where the amazing coffee can still reach lovers of the stuff. If that happens, I’ll be the first to return! To follow their happenings, check out their Facebook page.

What is your favorite cafe in Tallinn? Please leave a comment below and let me know so I can add it to the list to check out next time I am in the city!

*Special thanks to Visit Estonia for hosting me in Tallinn in the #storytellersnest. Was so much fun to make this coffee guide about a city I am so passionate about!

Note: When I am on the road, I always bring a Keep Cup with me and an Aeropress with all of its accessories. While I love supporting local cafes and independent businesses, it can get expensive after a while if you travel as much as I do! You can shop my travel coffee kit below, including stainless steel straws for cold brews.

SHOP MY TRAVEL COFFEE KIT:

Craft Beer in Tallinn: Where to Drink Estonian Beer in the Capital

October 31 2020 by Megan Starr 2 Comments

I have been on to the Estonian craft beer scene for years. In Frankfurt, we actually get some decent craft beer from Estonia. And, as someone who has traveled to Tallinn quite a few times, I have had ample opportunity to enjoy craft beer in Tallinn (and even over in Tartu)! When I knew I was going back to Tallinn this past March with Visit Estonia, I was certain that I needed to do some proper beer research and create a guide to where to find craft beer in Tallinn.

The guides out there were far from conclusive and I get so many people coming to my site for beer information for the Baltics that it was only right to explore Tallinn the proper way… by (craft beer) bar hopping. So, without further ado, this is my guide to where to drink craft beer in Tallinn, Estonia. I hope you find yourself in Tallinn at some point or even somewhere in the country (cycling in Estonia is a great option as the land is flat and pure). If there are any new places you recommend or if I left a gem off of this list, please leave a comment and let me know so I can check it out next time I am in Tallinn! Thanks!

Taptap Tallinn

I absolutely loved this bar and bottle shop. Located in the new and hip part of Tallinn, Rotermanni Kvartal (Rotermann City), it was my refuge (multiple times) on extremely cold days. Taptap Tallinn was located extremely close to where we were staying and we just loved the atmosphere and beer. The shop has around 600 bottles for sale as well as 6 beers on draft. They even have their own crowler machine- how cool is that (can the Frankfurt craft beer bars please get on board!?)

The decor inside of Taptap is modern, yet comfortable. It varies from the Hanseatic city’s usual bars and pubs that tourists frequent. The two-roomed bottle shop has basically every Estonian beer you could ever wish for (craft beer, that is) and even some internationals. They have proper glasses (nothing irks me more than when certain craft beers are served in pint glasses that don’t intensify the flavor and aroma) at Taptap and the staff is extremely friendly.

Taptap Tallinn also serves hotdogs as an ode to Danish street food. I am not a fan of hotdogs, or meat for that matter, but I enjoyed one when I was there one time and it was superb. If you are vegetarian or vegan, there are so many restaurants in the vicinity so please don’t let this put you off of going into Taptap.

Some of the beers I drank at Taptap Tallinn: Keskööpäike by Lehe Pruulikoda (New England IPA), Abstraction by Tanker Brewery (APA), Kaleidoskoop by Pühaste Brewery (DIPA), Einstein by Lehe Pruulikoda and Anderson’s Craft Beer (New England IPA), Pillerkaar by Pühaste Brewery (American IPA), After Ski by Sori Brewing (Gluten-free IPA), Delirious by Sori Brewing (DIPA), Sense Rainbow by WarPigs Brewpub (Pale Ale), Allikas by Pühaste Brewery (New England IPA), Trickle Rick! by Anderson’s Craft Beer (TIPA), Resinous by Sori Brewing (DIPA), and Tuulispask by Käbliku Pruulikoda (DIPA).

You can find Taptap Tallinn at Rotermanni 2 in the Rotermanni Kvartal in Tallinn. To find out more information, including their opening hours, check out their Website or Facebook page.

SIP Tallinn

I promise not every establishment on this guide is a bottle shop. But the fact of the matter is, I love bottle shops. I could get lost in them for hours, especially when I am on the road. And there is nothing I love more than a bottle shop that has a few taps and an area to enjoy a couple of beers at. SIP is just that type of place.

Located in the hip Telliskivi area of Tallinn near Kalamaja, SIP offers craft beer, traditional beer, and a lot of wine to its customers. One of the best things about the bottle shop and bar is that they offer courses and events almost constantly. They conduct them in multiple languages, as well. This is a must-visit for craft beer lovers visiting Tallinn.

Some beers I drank at SIP Tallinn: King Slayer by Buxton Brewery (DIPA), Sume by Pühaste Brewery (DIPA), and Dr. Jones by Anderson’s Craft Beer (American IPA).

You can find SIP Tallinn at Telliskivi 62 in Tallinn. To find out more, including their opening hours, check out their Website or Facebook page.

Porgu Brasserie

Porgu means ‘hell’ in Estonian. But this bar was anything but hell when it came to their craft beer selection. It was massive. While not all of it was Estonian, they had quite a nice Estonian beer offering. Porgu is located in the Old Town of Tallinn and is very accessible for those wandering the renowned, medieval city as they become parched. The bar is underground and kind of like in a cave. The lighting makes you actually feel like you’re in hell or somewhere dark and Satanic. But, the beer is so good that it’ll quickly snap you into a heavenly frenzy for more.

Porgu also sells a full food menu… offering everything from jalapeno poppers to pork chops. Vegetarian options are available.

Some beers I drank at Porgu: Populism by Põrgu Pruul (Session IPA) and Sour Park by Anderson’s Craft Beer (Sour Ale).

You can find Porgu Brasserie at Rüütli 4 in the Tallinn Old Town. To find out more information, including their opening hours, check out their Website or Facebook page.

Speakeasy by Põhjala

**SKIP THIS PLACE. The owner and/or person handling social media for them is a pompous asshole. Wouldn’t waste money going here or on their beers.

One of the most famous Estonian breweries, Pohjala is a brewery that I can easily find outside of Estonia. Their beers are fairly ubiquitous around Tallinn bars, cafes, and grocery shops, but they really are a phenomenal brewery. My favorite thing about Pohjala is that their beers often include unexpected ingredients and flavors.

They are constantly collaborating with breweries all over the world to bring their innovative knowledge and skill to other parts of the globe. Their Forest Series of beers includes several ingredients you wouldn’t expect to find in beer… like spruce tips, pine needles, and lingonberries. While it seems a bit outlandish to us, the way they incorporate Estonian nature into their beers is something most breweries should be envious of.

Some beers I drank at Speakeasy by Põhjala: ItaloBänger by Põhjala (Imperial Stout) and Mets by Põhjala (Black IPA).

You can find Speakeasy by Põhjala at Kopli 4 in Tallinn. To find out more, including their opening hours, check out their Website

Uba ja Humal

Uba ja Humal is so awesome that it earned honors on both my craft beer guide to Tallinn and my cafe and coffee guide to Tallinn. Uba ja Humal is a recently opened/expanded on bar, cafe, and bottle shop near the water in Tallinn. Their selection of beers is massive and their Estonian portfolio is top notch.

So, who owns this bar? Tanker Brewery from Harjumaa, Estonia. Anyone who knows the craft beer scene in Estonia most certainly is familiar with Tanker and their superb branding and beverages. Tanker was the first brewery in Estonia to make a sour beer and I am obsessed with Sauna Session, their beer made with real birch leaves (I am birch obsessed).

Some beers I drank at Uba ja Humal: Royal Mehu Kati by UJH Man’s Brewery (DIPA), Mu Isamaa 99/100 by Tanker Brewery and Fat Lizard Brewing Co. (American IPA made for the independence celebrations in Finland and Estonia), Animal Instinct by Tanker Brewery and Van Moll (IPA), Kolmekas by Purtse Pruulikoda (IPA), Reloaded by Tanker Brewery (Session IPA), Summer Briis by Käbliku Pruulikoda (Session IPA), Sauna Session by Tanker Brewery (Beer made with birch!), Hello, Jerry by Anderson’s Craft Beer (American IPA), and Õhus On Hägu by UJH Man’s Brewery (New England IPA).

You can find Uba ja Humal at Võrgu 3 near Kalamaja in Tallinn. To find out more information, including their opening hours, check out their Facebook page.

Humalakoda

Humalakoda is a brewpub located inside of the newer food hall called Balti Jaama in Tallinn. They have a small bar downstairs and the main restaurant and brewery upstairs. We ordered some beers and relaxed early in the day there and never ordered food. The place seemed very popular and was crowded quite early, but it isn’t difficult to see why! The staff was extremely friendly and the bartender really knew his beer! This is a must-visit bar in Tallinn if you are into craft beer!

Some beers I drank at Humalakoda: Punane Buddha by Humalakoda (Red IPA) and 100 Aastat Hapu Elu by Humalakoda (Sour Ale).

You can find Humalakoda at Balti Jaama Turg Reisijate 9 inside of Balti Jaama Food Hall in Tallinn. To find out more, including opening hours, check out their Website or Facebook page.

Brewdog Tallinn

While I was hesitant to go into Brewdog Tallinn at first because I was keen on drinking (mostly) Estonian beers while in Estonia, but… I found out that Brewdog Tallinn is actually owned by the same guy who owns Taptap Tallinn. And… they are right next door to each other!

Interestingly enough, Brewdog Tallinn had quite the nice selection of Estonian craft beers in bottles and even had some on tap. We found out that the owner can decide whether or not to have some local brews on tap and whether or not they want to rotate things around. I think that is really cool and I was happy to support some local brews (okay, and Omnipollo) at Brewdog Tallinn. Although Brewdog is Scottish, definitely stop here for a good craft beer in Tallinn.

Some beers I drank at Brewdog Tallinn: Mosaiik Vienna IPA by Pühaste Brewery (American IPA), Tumeaine by Pühaste Brewery (Imperial Stout with prunes, cocoa nibs, chipotle, and vanilla), and Noa Pecan Mud Cake Stout by Omnipollo (Imperial Stout).

You can find Brewdog Tallinn at Rotermanni 2 in the Rotermanni Kvartal in Tallinn. To find out more information, including opening hours, check out their Website or Facebook page.

Pudel Baar

Unfortunately, I didn’t get a chance to go to Pudel. I ended up quite sick toward the end of my trip and Pudel was the one that got away. But, they are the ones credited with starting the trend of craft beer in Tallinn, so if you love good beer, this is definitely a can’t-miss place! This is definitely the first place on my list next time I am in Tallinn, so I hope to update this guide with some notes when that happens!

You can find Pudel Baar at Telliskivi 60A near Kalamaja in Tallinn. To find out more, including their opening hours, check out their Website or Facebook page.

Koht

We saved Koht, which was supposed to be the ‘best’ bar for last. It is located in the Old Town of Tallinn and is supposed to have a loyal following of customers and the best beer in the city. Once we arrived, we ended up in a bottle shop. The lady, who was rude, guided us away and to the actual bar. Once we entered the bar, it was another ‘cave’ like complex like Porgu or other bars in the Old Town.

The atmosphere was a bit lackluster, but we were there during the early evening, so we didn’t really mind it. We ordered our drinks and sat at a table near the fireplace, which was not actually on. No more than five minutes later, the bartender and a customer wearing leather motorcycle gear came over to smoke at the fireplace. We were so turned off by this that we headed out after that one beer. This was my least favorite place in the city… but a lot of people like it, so take what I said with a grain of salt.

The beer I drank at Koht: Hello, Newman by Anderson’s Craft Beer (American IPA). I had this from a bottle.

You can find Koht at Lai 8 in the Old Town in Tallinn. To find out more, including their opening hours, check out their Facebook page.

Leib Resto & Aed

If you have followed any of my other craft beer guides on this blog, you know that I always like to include a restaurant or two that has impeccable food but also serves craft beer. We were guests at Leib Resto while in Tallinn and we were super excited to find out that they served craft beer alongside their delicious dishes. They had Estonian beer and it definitely was the perfect pairing to the incredible duck and sunchoke main courses that we ordered.

You can find Leib Resto ja Aed at Uus street 31 in Tallinn. To find out more, including their opening hours, check out their Website or Facebook page.

And that is a wrap! Those were the places where we found a large amount of craft beer in Tallinn. If you have any suggestions for my next trip or if I missed a place, please drop it in the comments so I can check it out next time and get this guide updated! Thanks and happy drinking!

*Special thanks to Visit Estonia for hosting me in Tallinn in the #storytellersnest. Was so much fun to make this craft beer guide!

16 Amazing Things to Do in Tallinn, Estonia in Winter

August 27 2020 by Megan Starr Leave a Comment

Tallinn is often cited to be the most beautiful city in the Baltics and with a lot of reason. While a trip to Tallinn in winter may be a bit cold, it is absolutely worthwhile.

This is a guide of things to do in Tallinn during the winter. If you have suggestions of what to do in Tallinn, Estonia during the colder, darker months, please let us know in the comments.

Things to do in Tallinn in Winter

One of the places I have been to over and over is Tallinn, Estonia. The remarkable, medieval city has one of the best-preserved Old Towns of anywhere in Europe and charm just exudes the place.

Interestingly enough, I have never actually been to Tallinn during the summer. I have only explored Tallinn in winter and autumn.

Things to do in Tallinn in Winter-43 — Beautiful Tallinn in winter

My many trips to Tallinn have left me knowing the city extremely well and all that it has to offer.

While this guide will be more of an overview for first-time visitors, feel free to drop me an email or leave a comment if you’re looking for added insight.

Tallinn is cold in winter… but it is absolutely able to be visited and you will have the chance to take advantage of the many great bars, restaurants, and cafes there.

This is a guide of things to do in Tallinn in winter. Not conclusive of all there is to do, but it should be a good starting point!

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What to Pack for Tallinn

Tallinn in winter can be a bit tricky with packing because the appearance of the city kind of gives the illusion that it is not as cold as it truly is.

We will have an Estonia packing list coming out soon, but for now, these are a couple of things we recommend taking to Tallinn in winter:

⇒ Snow boots: Whether you like it or not, Tallinn is snow during the winter. And cold! I always travel there with my Sorel snow boots during the winter months. Not only do they keep my feet extremely warm, but they are also lightweight compared to other snow boots and easy to walk around in. Click here to shop my Sorel snow boots.

⇒ Heavy Winter Parka: Another thing you will be happy you toted along to Tallinn is a thick, winter parka. The cold is brutal there as the capital city sits right along the Baltic Sea and the wind and frigid temperatures are anything but endearing. I love my Helly Hansen Svalbard Parka that I have used even in the Arctic Circle. Click here to shop my Helly Hansen parka.

⇒ Stylish beanie: You will need to keep your head warm at all times since like 70-80% of heat escapes from the head. I have a collection of Scandinavian and Nordic beanies that I wear when I travel and I always take one or two to Tallinn when I visit in winter. I really love my mustard color one from Libertine-Libertine (Danish) or my blue one from Samsøe & Samsøe (also Danish).

⇒ Lonely Planet Estonia, Latvia, & Lithuania: While I would love for you to read my blog before you go to Estonia to plan your trip, I really think it is helpful for you to have a guidebook handy when you’re on the ground in a location. I recommend this Baltics travel guidebook from Lonely Planet. It covers all three of the Baltic states and has interesting information to pair with all the practical information it provides. Click here to purchase Lonely Planet Estonia, Latvia, & Lithuania.

Best Tallinn winter tours

Winter in Tallinn is absolutely amazing and one of the best places to visit during this cold, dark time of year. One of the best ways to see the city and all of its winter and Christmas offerings is by organized tour.

The following tours are ones we recommend to add to your Tallinn winter itinerary:

Tallinn City Pass

For travelers keen on discounts and free transportation, among other things, the Tallinn City Pass is a great and affordable investment to ensure you save a bit of money on your trip and get to see the best that Tallinn has to offer in winter.

Another great thing is the museum discounts and free entrances… something that is wonderful to do during a cold, Tallinn winter.

>> Click here to inquire about the Tallinn City Pass

Renting a Car in Tallinn

If you’re comfortable driving in snow and winter conditions, there is no better way to see Estonia than by rental car. The country is small and you can take some really epic day trips from Tallinn if you rent a car.

>> Click here to check rental car rates for Tallinn

How to Get to Tallinn

There are several ways to end up in Tallinn. You can take the Tallink Megastar ferry from Helsinki (I like its name as it is pretty much like my own name).

You can fly in from several other cities in Europe via airBaltic or the many other airlines that service the Estonian capital city. Or you can arrive overland from a lot of other places in the Baltics.

Things to do in Tallinn in Winter-36 — Flying to and from Tallinn with airBaltic

What to Do in Tallinn During Winter

Check Out the Tallinn Christmas Market

Founded in 1997 and taking place from the end of November until the first week of January is the Tallinn Christmas Market.

As if the Estonian capital couldn’t get any more charming, it adds a Christmas Market to its UNESCO Old Town.

The market gets over 200,000 visitors annually and it is known for selling mulled wine, souvenirs, and a lot of delicious, hot food.

Tallinn really shines during the winter months (okay… despite sunlight being an anomaly) and the city has such a cool pulse to it.

One of the best things to do in Tallinn in winter is to head there during the Christmas Market so that you can see a whole new life brought to the Old Town.

Click here for more information on how to experience the Tallinn Christmas Market

Catch a View Over Tallinn from Kohtuotsa

One of the essential things to do in Tallinn in winter OR summer is to get a view over the city from the Kohtuotsa platform.

This viewing area offers a vantage point over the city’s gorgeous spires and orange roofs and it is one of the best and most photogenic places to capture a snapshot from.

I have been here a few times and I really don’t think photos do it justice. It truly is spectacular.

If you’re into Instagram, this is the perfect place to grab that enviable Tallinn shot. You can find the platform at Kohtu 12 in Tallinn.

Take a Day Trip to Jägala Waterfall

Estonia’s landscape is rather flat and there are not mountains popping up all over the place (which means… there are just no real mountains).

But, you can still get cool nature once you head out of Tallinn and one of those places is at Jägala Waterfall, the highest natural waterfall in Estonia.

With a height of 8 meters, a day trip from Tallinn to Jägala will give you a chance to see life outside of the Estonian capital city.

The wide waterfall actually is gorgeous in winter as it will have icicles form in and around it, leaving it glistening in the winter sun.

Things to do in Tallinn in winter — Photo courtesy of Visit Estonia | Photographer: Jan Vutt

If you’re keen to check out Jägala Waterfall, there is an organized tour that goes to the falls and Harju County.

It is a five-hour-long tour and gets extremely great reviews and recommendations from other travelers who have done it before.

Click here to check out a tour to Jägala Waterfall

Indulge on Estonian Pancakes

There are very few things more satisfying than eating your body weight in pancakes. Estonian pancakes are absolutely delicious and something I highly recommend trying if you head to Tallinn in winter.

Don’t forget to get them with a side or topping of local, Estonian jam. It will blow your mind!

The best place in Tallinn to get Estonian pancakes is at Kompressor. Kompressor can be found at Rataskaevu 3 in Tallinn.

Wander Around the Balti Jaam Market

One of my favorite places in Tallinn is the Balti Jaam Marketing. This market, located close to the main station and quite close to the Old Town has pretty much everything inside of it.

You can find antique shops, second-hand clothing stores, coffee shops, souvenirs, craft beer, and more. There are also some stalls where you can find local, gourmet goods.

I recommend heading to the top of Balti Jaam and grabbing a delicious Tallinn craft beer at Humalakoda brewpub. They have a large tap selection and their beers are superb.

You can find the Balti Jaam Market between the Baltic Railway Station and Telliskivi Creative City.

Visit Uisuplats Ice Rink

Every winter, a pop-up ice rink is unveiled in the center of Tallinn’s Old Town.

Located on Harju Street next to the St. Nicholas Church, this skating rink operates from December until March and is one of the best places to visit in Tallinn in winter.

There are chances to go ice skating there or you can just wander by and check out the many events that are hosted there like hockey matches and more.

Nothing is quite as wintry and festive as an ice skating rink in the middle of a beautiful city like Tallinn.

What to do in Tallinn in winter — Photo courtesy of Visit Estonia | Photographer: Liina Notta

Get Cozy Inside of a Tallinn Cafe

Tallinn has an excellent cafe scene and no one knows more about the Tallinn coffee shops than I do (considering I wrote an entire guide to it).

The coffee in Tallinn is exceptional and you can find third-wave coffee shops all throughout the city. In the Old Town, I really loved August Cafe as the decor was quirky and cool and their Chemex was outstanding.

But, I really loved Røst Bakery in Rotermann, a newer development of Tallinn. Their cinnamon buns and flat white were exceptional! Located closeby is also Kokomo Coffee Roasters, another outstanding cafe.

Things to do in Tallinn in Winter-28 — Flat white at Røst Bakery

Tallinn can be brutally cold in the winter months and there is nothing cozier and more relaxing than finding a really amazing cafe to take refuge from the weather for an hour or two.

Visit the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral

Tallinn has so many beautiful churches inside of its Old Town, but one of the most renowned and picturesque is definitely the Orthodox Alexander Nevsky Cathedral.

It was built by Mikhail Preobrazhensky in a Russian Revival style during the late 1800s when Estonia was part of the Russian Empire.

The church stands out amongst the rest today as it is, in fact, still an Orthodox Church. It is photogenic from its foot to wherever else you can catch a glimpse of it.

It has been one of the main sights in Tallinn since its opening in 1900.

Check out the Estonian Maritime Museum

Estonia’s capital is no stranger to interesting and educational museums. One of the best things to do in Tallinn in winter is to step inside and explore some of them! One of the better museums, in my opinion, is the Estonian Maritime Museum.

The main mission of the museum is to showcase the country’s love and respect for the sea and Estonia’s Maritime history.

It was founded in 1935 by a former military captain and the funding came about on his initiative. It moved around often but finally found a permanent home in 1981 inside of the 500-year-old Fat Margaret Tower.

You can find the Estonian Maritime Museum at Pikk 70 in Tallinn.

See the Famous Tallinn Tower Hall

In the middle of the Old Town’s main square, Raekoja plats, sits one of the most famous sites in all of Estonia- the Tallinn Tower Hall.

This 64-meter high, medieval tower was built from 1402-1404 and has a 115-step spiral staircase to a 34-meter high viewing tower.

This is an area of the city that you will definitely peruse through when visiting Tallinn in winter… or summer. There are activities here and many restaurants in the area.

This is also where the Tallinn Christmas Market is held.

One of the coolest things about the Tallinn Tower Hall is that it had an Old Thomas weathervane atop it that had been around since 1530 and it was functioning until 1944.

A new model was placed on top in 1996 and it symbolizes the important history and life of this tower hall.

Try Traditional Estonian Christmas Food

Estonian food is a mixture of that of the Baltics and that of the Nordics and it is hearty and absolutely delicious.

Their traditional Christmas food usually contains Tallinn blood sausages, pork, potatoes, vegetables, lingonberry jam, pickled pumpkin, sauerkraut, jellied meats, and Estonian black bread.

You can find a lot of these servings at various restaurants all over Tallinn during the winter but one that is repeatedly mentioned and noted for having some of the best traditional Estonian food is Olde Hansa right in the heart of the Old Town.

While I tend to go for more modern Estonian fare when I am in Tallinn, this is definitely the place to get a traditional Christmas meal.

Click here to read more about Estonian Christmas food

Take a Day Trip to Helsinki

Okay, I know, I know… why is this on here?

Well, if you’re coming from afar and don’t get a lot of vacation time (ahem… my fellow Americans), we know you want to see as much as possible, even if that means adding another country and city to your arsenal.

Things to do in Tallinn in Winter-33 — Helsinki offers a much more tropical experience to that of Tallinn

I have taken day trips to Helsinki and Tallinn from one or the other before and it is so easy to do and the two cities actually help market each other and encourage these day trips as it is a huge boost for tourism for both.

I recommend booking a ticket on the Tallink Megastar (because it is like Megan Starr minus a couple of letters).

I have worked with them on a couple of occasions and been in different classes on the ship and it is such an enjoyable experience.

Helsinki is a brilliant city and Helsinki in winter is even cooler (trust me, most of my Helsinki trips have been in winter for some reason).

Things to do in Tallinn in Winter-32 — Helsinki is a great day trip from Tallinn during winter

You can visit Suomenlinna, check out the famous Cathedral, or even pop into one of the charming cafes littering the Finnish capital’s streets.

If you decide to stay overnight or for a few days, you can visit Lahti or somewhere up in the Lakeland region to get a taste for the gorgeous forests.

You can also take a day trip to Nuuksio National Park, one of my favorite winter experiences in Finland.

Relax in a Sauna

The Baltics and Nordics are renowned for their sauna culture and there is no better place to experience this than in Tallinn during winter.

There are several saunas throughout the Estonian city but I recommend heading to Kalma Saun (Kalma Sauna) for an experience in one of the oldest and best in Tallinn.

Kalma Sauna has been open since 1928 and is situated in the historic Kalamaja neighborhood, an area of Tallinn known for its stunning and well-preserved wooden houses.

I have really started to learn a lot about saunas in recent years as I have had several trips to Finland… but I am claustrophobic and struggle to go inside sometimes. One day, one day…

Walk Around Kalamaja and See the Wooden Houses

One of the coolest districts in Tallinn is Kalamaja, a word that translates to ‘fish house’. It is located close to the Old Town and traces back to the 14th-century.

During the 1870s, everything changed when Tallinn became connected to St. Petersburg by the railroad. These wooden houses were built in order to accommodate factory workers, shops, and goods because the railway’s birth gave the city more industry.

Today, you can walk around and find hip cafes, shops, restaurants, and bars in Kalamaja and it is one of the chillest places in the city.

Things to do in Tallinn in Winter-16 — Beautiful Kalamaja

See Tallinn’s Most Populated District, Lasnamäe

Lasnamäe is the most populated area of Tallinn, and to be honest, foreigners don’t go there. It has a crappy reputation amongst locals and is mostly filled with Russian-speaking Russians.

I have read about many accounts of people living here and how life is and I really don’t know much more from a local’s standpoint.

Lasnamäe in tallinn — Lasnamäe in Tallinn from an aerial perspective

I ventured out there during the winter because I wanted to check out the architecture. Okay, to be fair, I really wanted to drone the buildings. I also wanted to learn more about this kind of forgotten-about area of the city.

Getting out there via public transportation was pretty easy once I asked around and I ended up dropped off in some industrial area.

I walked a bit and eventually found the main area where shops and sports centers and housing was located.

I had lunch at a cafe that doubled as an Indian restaurant (was pretty good, actually) and walked through the grocery store that was filled with Russian beer, magazines, and goods.

I had pizza at a restaurant in the city and watched K-pop music videos on TV with the workers. I eventually was able to get a taxi to take me back to Tallinn.

With that being said, the day was uneventful… but at the same time, pretty rad. I got to see a different part of Tallinn. No one really ventures out to this area and it seems to be a misunderstood and shunned neighborhood.

I found it unique and just another layer of Estonia that exists.

Down a Few Craft Beers

One of my favorite things about Tallinn is the sheer amount of amazing beer that exists there.

You can try many different Estonian beers all throughout the city from Taptap (my favorite!) to Uba ja Humal, a bar located on the water that has a killer bottle shop and also specialty coffee.

There are some great breweries in Tallinn that deserve recognition such as Lehe and Tanker.

I, personally, stay away from Pohjala, however, as the owners or person handling their social media is a shitty and pompous person (for lack of a better word).

Nevertheless, Estonians produce some great craft beer and you can’t leave Tallinn without getting your hands on a few of them!

Escape the Cold Inside of Leib Restoran

Leib is easily my favorite place to grab a nice meal in Tallinn. They serve a modernized Estonian cuisine with a lot of emphasis on local and seasonal ingredients.

I have eaten the most amazing sunchokes there as well as tasty duck.

Everything I have tasted at Leib has been prepared with excellent precision and detailed and you can tell that this place really gets it and caters to the customers.

You can find Leib at Uus 31 in Tallinn.

Things to do in Tallinn in Winter-23 — Dinner at Leib Restoran

Where to Stay in Tallinn

As cliche as it sounds, I love staying in Tallinn’s city center during the winter. It isn’t too loud and there is something magical about the cobblestone streets and small alleyways.

But, others may opt for something a bit different. Here are our top Tallinn accommodation picks:

Great Apartment in the Heart of Tallinn (Splurge): The modern aesthetic of this apartment will offer a unique experience as it is nestled in the historic and medieval Old Town of the city.

The location is so convenient it hurts! This is our top choice of a place to stay in Tallinn- but book soon as it goes quickly. Click here to see rates and availability.

Celena Foorum 6 (Mid-range): This Tallinn apartment gets exceptional reviews and is located a short distance from the city center and port area.

I love this area because there are wonderful cafes that are easy to pop into on a cold day. The price is affordable and the location is pretty good so it is definitely a top place to stay in Tallinn. Click here to see rates and availability.

Old Town Hostel Alur (Budget): If you’re looking for a high-rated hostel in the Old Town, Hostel Alur is a great pick.

Its central location and cozy atmosphere make it a top pick for budget travelers visiting the Estonian capital. Click here to see rates and availability.

There are so many reasons to visit Tallinn in winter and I hope this gives you a pretty good idea that despite the cold, there are many great things to do both indoors and outdoors.

If you have additional suggestions, please drop them in the comments. I will likely be back in Tallinn again this year with Aram, so I’m all ears!

Getting From Tartu, Estonia to Riga, Latvia

November 6 2014 by Megan Starr 8 Comments

Getting from Tartu, Estonia to Riga, Latvia proved to be easy in the end, but initially was a bit more difficult than I expected.

I headed to Tartu from Tallinn and based on what I read online, I figured I could just hop a bus out of Tartu to Riga a day later without any issues. When I arrived at my hotel and asked the front desk to get the bus times for me, she came back with a massive stack of paper giving bus times to Tallinn and then down to Riga. Apparently, the Eurolines bus that ran between Tartu and Riga was cancelled.

In addition, almost all buses that run between Tartu and Riga appeared to connect through Tallinn, resulting in not a four hour trip, but rather a nine to ten hour trip, at best.

After a bit of research online, I discovered that I could take a train from Tartu to Valga, Estonia. From there, I could take another train to Riga. Not as easy as it sounds. Here is how I got from Tartu, Estonia to Riga, Latvia without having to connect back through Tallinn:

1) Go to the train station in Tartu and ask for the 1020 train to Valga. It leaves from platform #2 and costs 4 Euros per person. This train is nice and has wifi.

2) You will arrive in Valga at about 1134 if everything is on time.

3) Valga, Estonia is a shared city on the border of Latvia. The Latvian part of the city is called Valka. This is important to know because the trains will not leave directly from the Valga station. You will, from here, take a bus. Go outside of the train station to the front and to the left will be a bus. Double check prior to boarding that it is going to Riga (the sign on it will not say Riga, but will say Strenči). This bus leaves the train station at 1143 and costs 5,60 Euros per person (this is for the entire trip to Riga).

4) You will remain on this bus for about 45 minutes to an hour and it will go to some odd places prior to arriving in Strenči. Once you arrive in Strenči, you can disembark and board the nearby train that will take you directly to Riga.

5) This train ride will take around two hours and the train is old, but will have free wifi as well. Gotta love this part of Europe for being so well-connected! In addition to going to Riga, this train also passes through the cities of Valmiera and Cēsis.

In the end, the trip was easy and painless, but the scenario of switching to a bus and then back to a train in Valga would have tripped me up had I not expected it.

Please do note that this is subject to change at any moment. Tartu is a university town and will surely have other methods of transportation established here and there. I took this trip in late October 2014, so please double check at the train station in Tartu before making the journey.