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  1. Apparently this site censors disagreeing responses. I left a long response, using specifics based on my more than three years living in Almaty, where I live today. What happened to it?

    1. Megan wrote me, saying the site does not censor. I see now that both my comments are visible. I can only guess that I couldn’t see the first one earlier was due to some software glitch on my computer, the Internet or at this site. In any case, I appreciate that Megan does not censor.

  2. It’s hard to know where to begin. This post is so accurate and so inaccurate. Here are a few things based on my four years living in Almaty.
    Air pollution: Yes, it is bad, but there have been fewer than ten days in the entire time I have been here that I can’t see the glorious mountain backdrop as I walk to work in the main government district.
    Yandex taxis: Yandex offers (at least) two kinds of taxis. One involves unmarked Uber-like service. The other is Yandex taxis with the name Yandex plastered on the side. I don’t know about the former’s rates, but the latter charges around two to five times the negotiable street rate of gypsy taxis (i.e., what you will pay by flagging down anyone willing to take you for a negotiated fare). I never take Yandex taxi after my experience with them. I specifically took an official taxi one evening. I showed the driver the theatre tickets I had, with the street address on them. He drove me someplace, pointed at a building, let me out and drove off. It was the wrong street. It was too late to go to the correct address, so my tickets plus the high-priced taxi fare and the bus ride home were a loss. When a local friend called Yandex, they said, in effect, tough luck: we have insurance etc. for our drivers but not for our clientele. Further attempts have also gotten nowhere with them.
    Supermarkets: Ramstore has lockers, but I have never been told to use them. Personnel at Small, on the other hand, are assiduous in getting you to use their lockers — but don’t explain how they work (It’s easy once you know (except when it is n’t working properly), but I had no idea how to navigate it until another customer explained it to me.
    Truth-in-packaging: Almost everything that is packaged here has ‘EAC’ on the package. Locals don’t know what it means, but it refers to an international system of standards. The rules regulate things like the use of the word “juice.” This is nice, except that the companies find ways around it. For example, while prohibited from labeling nectar or fruit drink ‘COK’ (Russian for “juice”), they will use the word ‘juice’ in very big letters. also, the contents of products are often written in tiny script. In looking through the EAC regs, I did not see anything indicating that ingredients have to be listed in volume or mass order, which makes it hard to know if you are getting a high or low quality product. Stores, including Ramstore, usually have shelf labels for products rather than prices on individual items. But the items are often not stocked appropriately. This means that if you just grab, say, a kind of oatmeal flakes above the lowest price, the odds are not bad that you will be charged a different price. Early on in my stay here, I got into an argument with a cashier because I was being charged a much higher price than what I had seen on the shelf: I went back with another store employee and showed him. He just went over to another spot and showed me the higher price (on the shelf were none of the items). The shelf labels are often hard to read, so the best bet is to try to match up the bar codes. This can cost a lot of time.
    Navigating supermarkets: Not so easy. Magnum is massive and has a system to its organization, but this is not always in sync with my classifications. Ramstore seems to be ruled by some marketer who wants to up sales using some sort of psychological algorithm. Product sections get shifted around, items that are being pushed will be in bins and on shelves in many locations in the store, and favorite items will be relegated to obscure locations for few cycles. Some stores, like Ramstore, have loyalty cards. They cost little at most stores, and are likely to pay for themselves the first time you use them.
    The streets: Yes, Alma Ata was laid out as a grid (as an American from the Mid-West, I found this comforting), but over time, a number of large curvilinear streets have been added, making long-distance travel within the city easier but also confusing. To say the streets are not particularly dirty is doing a disservice to the low-paid city employees who are constantly tending to the streets, sidewalks and other public spaces. The streets are CLEAN. On the other hand, when there is even a slightly heavy rainfall, the water rushes over the streets, making crossing them a sloggy business. In the first three years here, I was hit by cars three times, one of them seriously. Each time, I was following the rules of the road. Pedestrians are supposed to have absolute right of way at marked crosswalks if there is not walk light. If there is a walk light, cars are supposed to stop on red, but an Italian dash is not unknown, either — so be careful entering a crosswalk after the (usually very short) walk light just turns on. Generally, though, during the day-time crosswalks are quite safe. At night, crossing major streets is another matter: DO NOT try to assert your right of way against the crazy young macho drives speeding up and down the thoroughfares: just wait until they have passed. Also, some crosswalks have activators that have to be touched. I have seen locals futilely standing waiting for the walk sign, not knowing that they had to touch an activator. Driving might be easy for a New Yorker, but for someone used to orderly traffic, Almaty is a nerve-wrecker: traffic lanes are taken as vague guide lines; rage honking is moderately common; and everything is give-and-take. It is illegal to jaywalk. A lot of people do it, but cars make no accommodation, and people do often get ticketing (which can mean either going through the fine-paying process or paying a bribe to the poorly paid traffic police. When someone is stopped, either on foot or in a car, the traffic police are not threatening– it’s more like a teacher sadly telling a student that s/he will get a bad grade because the home-work was late.
    Public Transportation: although the busses can be crowded, I find them pretty easy to use even though most routes don’t simply go up and down a street. The fare is cheap, and it is even cheaper if you get a rechargeable oni card, which is also good on the subway. Note, however, that there are no transfers, so each bus or subway ride must be paid for.
    Language: Except for very basic phrases and (sometimes incorrect) numbers, the average person in shops, museums, hospitals or other places you might go won’t know English or any other foreign language. This can make simple things like going to the pharmacy or the supermarket nerve-wracking if you don’t know Russian or Kazakh very well.

  3. Hi dear, we 4 buddy friends are planning to go Almaty on 1st week of November, and we heard of some disturbance and restrictions about night life there, if you have information about that and share with me that will be a great help, thanx

  4. Thank you for all of this info ! I will be visiting Almaty and will use this somewhat as my guide for things to do .