Balkans

The Best Coffee in Belgrade, Serbia

November 14 2020 by Megan Starr 25 Comments

Coffee in Belgrade is definitely not a new phenomenon. In fact, it is one of the best things to do in Belgrade when you’re there.

Did you know that Belgrade, Serbia was home to Europe’s first kafana, or coffee shop? Thanks to the Ottoman Empire, Serbia saw coffee houses nearly a century before London, Marseilles, Vienna, and Leipzig.

While it was black Turkish coffee that gained historical marks in Belgrade, the cafe and coffee scene in the city is ever-present today and worthy of being explored by anyone who steps foot in the Serbian capital (don’t worry, most cafes sell beer too).

I must admit that I am a bit apathetic when it comes to Turkish coffee. I can take it or leave it but I will ultimately choose a Turkish tea over a black Turkish coffee any day. On the other hand, I do like coffee and cafes.

And even though my recent solo Balkans trips to Belgrade were not my first, I went in with the determination to explore the heck out of the specialty coffee scene there and see how it measured up to other European cities. In true Belgrade fashion, she didn’t disappoint.

This coffee guide to Belgrade showcases some of my favorites as well as some local favorites when it comes to specialty coffee. I didn’t fall in love with every place, but people I chatted with said they are very popular amongst coffee lovers and who am I to judge coffee preferences?

So, I listed them here as options, anyway. I also listed a couple of places I was unable to get to due to location but fully intend on checking out during my next trip to the city. I highly recommend adding a stop in Belgrade to explore the coffee scene to your Balkans itinerary.

<not on the coffee list as they served Illy, but seriously how cute is this place?>

At the end of the post, I would love to hear your comments on places you love to get a tasty cup of coffee in Belgrade. Please share away!

Disclaimer: All of these places (except one) allow smoking inside. It is disgusting and makes me ill. But that is Belgrade and you can’t completely escape it.

On the plus side, they had free wifi, free water, and allowed dogs inside, so in addition to the tasty cups of coffee, it almost made up for it. The ventilation system was pretty decent inside of all of them, so please don’t be discouraged by the smoking. Good coffee awaits!

19 GRAMS

Update: I have, unfortunately, heard that this place has closed. Definitely one of my favorite spots in Belgrade. I must have visited this cafe five times throughout my stay!

Aesthetically pleasing from the inside and outside, 19 Grams prides themselves on delivering the proper amount of espresso each and every time they prepare a shot of it for a thirsty customer. I had fantastic service here over and over again.

I had a flat white during my first visit but stuck with double cappuccinos after that as they didn’t overfoam the thing. It was smooth and creamy and it took every ounce of me to not order a second cup every time. I also enjoyed breakfast from here on my last day.

The American in me couldn’t resist the natural peanut butter and jam toast option staring into my hungry eyes from the menu.

19 Grams is located at Kralja Petra 70 in Dorcol. To find out more, including their opening hours, you can check out their Facebook or Instagram.

D59B

This was the very first place I checked out in Belgrade. Why? I heard the coffee was exceptional and the vibe was cool and hip and located in an industrial part of the city that is undergoing a makeover.

It definitely lived up to the hype and I had some of the best coffee in Belgrade every time I went to D59B.

It was completely apparent that the baristas and staff here knew their stuff. I ordered a milk coffee each time as it was a bit busy and flat whites are quick and easy to make… but I would have trusted anything they would have served me.

They also roast their own beans in-house. I slyly made sure that I sat by the roaster when inside as I continually got an amazing whiff of the stuff.

This is a non-smoking cafe. Woohoo! Well, I never saw anyone smoking inside, but rather in front of the cafe. Probably because they are roasting their own beans inside. Cigarette smoke and coffee beans wouldn’t be the best combo.

D59B also offers nighttime and evening fun and they serve local craft beer on draft. You can find them at Dobračina 59b in Lower Dorcol. They don’t have a website or much of anything posted online, but you can check out their outdated Tumblr page for more information (or just search them on Foursquare or like sites).

LOKAL

Lokal was an unexpected find for me. I actually had it on my list of places to visit but was keener on checking out a coffee shop around the corner. Turns out, I was confused and my Google maps had failed me. Lokal was the coffee shop I had set out for in the first place.

Nevertheless, it was a pleasure getting a chance to have a nice coffee from here and relax in the coziness of the small cafe.

Lokal also roasts their own beans. The two-story cafe might be small in size, but the flavor of their products is pretty powerful and robust.

I ordered a Chemex from here and sat for an hour or two to escape the sun (you heard me right… it was an unseasonably warm February day). They also bring mint water with the coffee which was much to my delight.

You can find Lokal at Alekse Nenadovića 24 in Vracar. To find out more information, including their hours, check out their Facebook page or Website.

KAFETERIJA

Oh… a chain. While I am usually pretty adamant about supporting independent coffee shops, I had heard so many rave reviews about this place that I thought I’d better check it out. I am very glad I did. They have a total of seven cafes in Serbia (all in Belgrade except one which is located in Novi Sad) and I ended up at the one by the Student Park (Студентски Трг).

They were busy and clearly delivered a tasty product. I sat inside despite the sunny skies and enjoyed a flat white. The coffee’s size was bigger than I was used to, but it was smooth and hit the spot. They offer everything from sweetened coffees to Kopi Luwak.

You can find the Kafeterija location I went to by the Student Park in the city center at Zmaja od Noćaja. To find their other locations and opening hours, check out their Facebook page.

UZITAK

I must admit that I found Uzitak while looking for places to grab a beer. Despite it being a coffee and cakes cafe, they also serve local craft beer from Kabinet Brewery, and paired with the quirky interior, I thought this would be a lovely place to grab an afternoon beer.

I ended up with coffee (my first time… I went there numerous times). And a super friendly staff, particularly Aleksandra, who I went to visit two weeks in a row.

The cafe is small but colorful and uplifting. I found this place to be the one I went to when I was experiencing homesickness or just needing a familiar place where I felt comfortable.

My only coffee tip for this place is to ensure that you’re given a double shot of espresso. They offer single-origin, Fair-Trade, and organic beans.

Uzitak can be found at Hilandarska 4 in the city center of Belgrade. For opening hours and additional information, check out their Facebook, Instagram, or Website.

AVIATOR COFFEE EXPLORER

Another chain!? I had some pretty solid coffee here, so I definitely felt that the Dorcol location, in particular, was worth mentioning on this coffee list.

Aviator has six locations throughout Belgrade but I only had time to check out one of them. At the Dorcol cafe, I found a super friendly and welcoming staff and a very well-made V60 pourover.

You can find Aviator Coffee Explorer’s location in Dorcol at Gundulićev venac 59a. To find out more about Aviator, check out their Facebook.

LABORATORIJA

Laboratorija was one of the most beautiful cafes I have ever stepped foot in. I am a big fan of minimalistic decor and this exuded that and more. Black and white interior with hints of green flora throughout.

It was my dream home… just in cafe form. Their coffee was tasty and well-made by the inviting and cordial staff.

I ordered a double cappuccino and ended up having to drink it fairly quickly as the place became saturated with smokers. Laboratorija is located in New Belgrade (Novi Beograd) in the newer development area called West 65.

There are a handful of reasons to venture to Novi Beograd, but make sure Laboratorija is one of them.

You can find Laboratorija in Novi Beograd at Omladinskih Brigada 86j. To find out more information, including their opening hours, check out their Facebook page.

BELGRADE CAFES THAT I DIDN’T HAVE TIME TO CHECK OUT

There were quite a few places I didn’t have time to check out despite having them on my list. I’d love to include them on here for others to stop in and let me know how they are (and hopefully some of these will move to the list above on future trips)!

SUPERMARKET CONCEPT STORE

Update: Don’t go here for coffee. I went back and finally got to check it out alongside some of the delicious beans they brew with by D59B… and it sucked. Not the beans fault at all… but the baristas didn’t care, burned the milk, and really didn’t seem to give a crap when I said it was awful. BUT… do go here. The concept and shop is amazing and the beer is great, as is the juice and breakfast bites!

It would be remiss of me to say I never stopped by this place. I did stop by at around 10am and I ordered a beer. No shame (okay, just a little bit).

I went back the following day to test out their coffee and they were closed (it was a Sunday). This concept store and cafe are brilliant. I could have stayed inside of Supermarket for hours. Next time I may just do that.

You can find Supermarket Concept Store at Uzun Mirkova 8.

JAVA

I heard that this place was wonderful. Due to its location, I never had time to make it there. I will ensure that this place is visited next time I am in Belgrade, however.

Java can be found at Andre Nikolica 7. To find out more information about Java, you can check out their Facebook page.

SKUPSTINA

I actually had trouble locating Skupstina the first time I tried looking for it. Kind of strange as the map is pretty exact with its location; it was a major fail on my behalf. When I finally found Skupstina, it was night and I went in for a beer.

As it’s a place that caters to coffee drinkers and wine lovers, I couldn’t find any Serbian beer on the menu and left. Next time I head back here, it will be to try out one of their coffees.

You can find Skupstina at Vlajkoviceva 11. To find out more, check out their Facebook page.

COFFEE TIME

I was pretty gutted to run out of time in Novi Beograd the one day I had free and didn’t have time to stop by this place. I will be sure to pay them a visit next time I am on that side of the river.

Coffee Time is located at Jurija Gagarina 151b in Novi Beograd. To find out more information, check out their Facebook page.

HONORABLE MENTION

KOFFEIN

I don’t want to include places on here where I have lousy experiences with coffee, but Koffein seems to come pretty recommended by locals that I figured I would add it on the list despite my unfavorable experience with their coffee.

I would be willing to give it another shot next time I am in the city, on the other hand. Hopefully, it will deliver different results!

You can find Koffein at Cara Lazara 13 or Uskočka 8. To find out more information, check out their Facebook page.

Walking Across the Border of Albania to Tushemisht

November 14 2020 by Megan Starr 18 Comments

Prior to traveling to Ohrid in Macedonia, I had decided that I would make the valiant effort of walking from Sveti Naum, a monastery on the south shore of Lake Ohrid, to Tushemisht or Pogradec in Albania.

While there are many things to do in Skopje, the capital of Macedonia, I planned to spend all of my time around Lake Ohrid for this trip and I would have to go back to explore Skopje later.

That included walking across this border on foot. Nope, not driving in Albania. But literally walking from Macedonia into Albania. I couldn’t gather too much information about the journey on foot via the web, but it seemed harmless enough and looked close on a map.

I had a few apprehensions about this journey, on the other hand: 1) Would there be dead dogs? Nate over at Yomadic had a joyous experience in Pogradec with a dead dog on the beach. An experience I couldn’t fathom going through as a dog owner. 2) I’m severely out of shape and wasn’t even sure if I could stay alive to walk 2km. 3) Would they take my Macedonian Denar in Albania or would a currency exchange be available (I had no cards on this trip since choosing to not replace yet after being stolen here in Frankfurt)?

Nevertheless, I was keen to do things on foot, which turned out to be the right decision after not finding a single taxi at Sveti Naum to take me to the border.

Turns out the walk was easier than suspected. I did run into one dead dog on the way. It was on the Macedonian side, however. Throughout the 11am journey, I found maybe three passing vehicles along the highway to the Albanian border, including a bus (could I have really taken the bus here?!)

I’m terrible at judging distance, but I believe I walked only around three or four miles to the Albanian border (about five to seven kilometers) before I hit the checkpoints to leave Macedonia and enter Albania. The process was seamless but shockingly lengthy.

It took me nearly an hour to leave Macedonia and another thirty minutes to check into Albania. And this was with the locals pushing me through ahead of them. I can’t imagine there are an alarming amount of tourists waltzing through border control on a daily basis.

Some photos of the journey into Albania:

<a dog that has seen better days; blurred out to spare animal lovers of the sight as I cried enough for us all>

Once through border control, I saw at least five taxis and decided to forego the rest of the journey on foot and take one of them, pending they would take my Macedonian money (or at a last resort, my Euros).

I had no issue using Macedonian money and the guy even agreed to take me all the way back to Lagadin, Macedonia where I was staying later that evening for a reasonable price.

After a very short ride to Tushemisht (no more than five or so minutes), I landed in a city that I had no idea about. And there was definitely no information out there like you can easily find on the Albanian Riviera. Like zero.

I was really only coming here for a nice meal (of Balkan cheese, let’s not kid ourselves) and an Albanian beer. I had no problem finding both.

<this will be my last meal on Earth>

I ruminated over what I should spend the day doing aside from eating and drinking and decided to just walk around and soak up the scenery. Truthfully, I’m not sure there was much else to do.

Tushemisht is a small town situated right on Lake Ohrid and is filled with miniature concrete canals and blueish-green beaches that are often seen in the Balkans. Subdued and decorous for the sunny weather I was gifted that day, I kind of regretted not attempting to spend a night there.

Aside from two other Americans and their young daughter, I didn’t see or hear another soul in sight that wasn’t a resident of the community.

Tushemisht consisted of a few restaurants and bars located on the water, a few cafes inside the city, cobblestone and marbled narrow streets, spectacular churches and monasteries, blue-green beaches (which were trashed a lot less than I had expected), small markets containing the most elemental of items, and home vineyards everywhere. I felt safe and like I was able to gain a decent sense of Tushemisht just in the eight hours I spent there.

After my time was up and my cab driver was waiting for me in front of the market, I reluctantly headed back to my guesthouse in Lagadin, which took nearly an hour and a half (including passport control for both sides).

Along the way, he stopped on several occasions for me to take photos and admire the dramatic sunset, even without my asking for it. He told me about his family and his life in Albania. I felt very lucky to have had the chance to spend a day in Albania, even if it was at a small border town.

And while the country has been on my list for some time, it is very unlikely I’ll make a trip back anytime soon. But if I do, I intend to get back to little Tushemisht and spend another day overlooking Ohrid and eating a bountiful amount of cheese.

<Bunker in Macedonia that I was told was built by the Italians from my taxi driver>

Best Things to Do in Aegina, Greece’s Pistachio Paradise

November 12 2020 by Megan Starr Leave a Comment

One of the most beautiful day trips from Athens is undoubtedly Aegina, an island in the Saronic Gulf. This is a guide of things to do in Aegina.

Forewarning- it contains a lot of references to pistachios. You can thank me later and add any tips for what to do in Aegina in the comments if you’ve had the opportunity to visit Aegina Island yourself!

If you’re simply looking for a tour to Aegina, here are some top-rated options to consider:

Things to do in Aegina, Greece

Aegina is the closest of the Greek Islands to Athens and it is the perfect island to spend a day or two exploring, especially if you’re looking for a day trip from Athens.

The island is steeped in history and is home to several ancient Greek monuments and plenty of other sites and places to explore.

The other big draw to visiting Aegina is the pistachios, the island’s most famous produce.

The Aegina pistachio is a different variety from the more common types found in supermarkets and is classed as one of the best in the world (I can verify its deliciousness).

The island of Aegina is definitely busier than the other islands year-round due to its proximity to Athens and the fact that people can bring cars onto the island.

But, having been there in two different seasons, I would say that it is still manageable. There are many things to do in Mykonos and Santorini but they are swarming with tourists.

Aegina still is tolerable and not too saturated with them.

There are plenty of ferries heading to Aegina Island, along with cruise ships dropping people off for a few hours.

But, even though it remains close to Athens, it still has that chilled-out island vibe that will lure you over to it.

I traveled to Aegina during the off-season AND high-season so this guide was written with all times of the year in mind.

In my opinion, Aegina is one of the best places to visit in Greece in October… or July… or March. It really doesn’t have a bad season.

Basic Information for Visiting Aegina

Getting from Athens to Aegina

Aegina is 40 minutes away from Piraeus and is serviced by multiple ferries which makes it really accessible.

During the high season, there are ferries heading from Athens to Aegina in a constant stream, so booking ahead is not always necessary but does take the stress out of the journey.

I booked my tickets via Ferries in Greece. The website is extremely easy to use and will guide you through the process.

It is important to note that all tickets need to be picked up in person from a vendor around the port and will not be sent to you nor can they be printed out.

Year-round, there are two main ferry options- the FlyingDolphin hydrofoil boat that takes around 40 minutes and is only for foot traffic.

The FlyingDolphin will set you back €14 each way per person but it’s the fastest way to the island and the ride is comfy.

The other option is to take the car ferry. This is a lot cheaper at €8 each way per person but takes around 1 hour and 20 minutes to reach Aegina.

If you plan to bring a car with you, it will cost an extra €20 euros for the car. If you are taking a motorbike, it is an extra €8.30 or €5.60 for a scooter. For more information see my guide on getting to Aegina from Piraeus.

ferry to aegina greece — Ferry from Piraeus to Aegina

Arriving in Aegina

Both ferries will drop you off in the main town of Aegina. The port is centrally located within the town so if you are staying on the island in the main town, most hotels are easily within walking distance.

If you are staying at a resort on the other side of the island and require transport, there are plenty of taxis lined up once you exit the port.

They will be found to the left. Your hotel should also be able to organize a driver to pick you up.

For many places, there are set prices that are listed on a small kiosk at the front of the taxi queue.

If you are on a day trip to the island and want to see the Temple of Aphaia, I highly recommend grabbing a taxi and negotiating the price for them to take you there wait for a period of time and drive you back.

This service should be around 35 euros, including a 30-minute wait for you to see the site.

Animals on Aegina

There are plenty of stray cats on the island but as with most of Greece, these cats are typically well looked after and there are regular vet visits to try and keep the population healthy and free of disease.

There are a few dogs that hang around the back streets that seem to be looked after and most likely have homes but prefer hanging around the fish market for scraps (can you blame them!?).

There are a few working animals on the islands with prevalent horses and carriages around.

However, unlike Hydra where this is the way of life, this is more touristy rather than practical. I advise everyone to stay away from paying for something like this as it is exploiting the animals for tourism purposes.

Supermarkets on Aegina

Because the island has a large local population, there are plenty of good supermarkets that sell everything that you could want.

There is also a large fish market within the town center which has a large variety of fish landed that day.

If you are lucky enough to have a kitchen on Aegina, I highly recommend cooking up some fish and enjoying some of the freshest fish you could ever wish to have.

ATMs on Aegina (Cash Machines)

There are plenty of ATMs and banks on Aegina, so getting cash out should be no problem at all. On top of this, most places accept all major credit cards so you will not find yourself stuck and unable to purchase any food.

Taxis on Aegina

The taxi stand is to the left of the port and there are plenty of taxis available on the island. For most destinations, there are set prices that are displayed at the front of the queue.

However, it is possible to haggle with the drivers, especially in the off-season when tourism is sparser.

It is also possible to hire a taxi to take you to a site and wait for a set amount of time and take you back to the main town.

This, however, will need to be negotiated with each driver and it is possible to play them off against each other to get the cheapest deal.

Public Buses on Aegina

There is a network of public buses on the island that will take you to the main sites and the other towns and villages on the island.

If you are limited on time, it is probably best not to use the bus system as the buses are infrequent and operate at slightly inconvenient times.

Water Taxis on Aegina

Water taxis are another great way to circumnavigate the island and will take you directly to the beach. They will also, if needed, take you back to mainland Greece or to neighboring islands.

Prices need to be negotiated with the taxi and it is advisable to book a return taxi at the start of the process if you are heading out to a remote beach.

Cafes and Restaurants on Aegina

Aegina is a food lover’s paradise- from pistachios being ubiquitous to the freshest seafood you can get.

As you walk down the streets, local restaurants will have fresh octopus hanging out to dry in the sun which quickly entices you into the restaurant.

I have been to Aegina twice and both times the food was just outstanding.

Flisvos

Flisvos was located right next to my hotel during my first trip and was the first place I ate on the island.

I had been craving grilled octopus for a long time and within 40 minutes of the island, I am happy to say I had a plate of grilled octopus sat in front of me and it was just what I had hoped for.

The restaurant had an array of fresh fish that the owner took great pride in presenting to each and every table. The food was affordable and delicious which was complimented with the sea views.

The restaurant is to the left of the main town as you take the road towards the Temple of Apollo.

Mezedopoleío To Steki (ΜΕΖΕΔΟΠΩΛΕΙΟ ΤΟ ΣΤΕΚΙ)

By the central fish market, there are two great little fresh fish restaurants serving up a range of tasty and delicious dishes.

The grilled squid was one of my favorite meals of my whole trip. The great food was coupled with brilliant customer service and the owner gave me a free dessert of natural Greek yogurt drizzled with luscious honey.

The only downside of the restaurant is that people were allowed to smoke inside. I ate here during the off-season… so during high-season, it likely was much more open and ventilated.

things to do in aegina greece — Things to do in Aegina = EAT!

ΨΑΡΩΤΑΒΕΡΝΑ Η ΑΓΟΡΑ (Σ ΓΕΛΑΔΑΚΗΣ)

Also located opposite this fish market, this awesome little fish restaurant is another gem in Aegina.

I went there for lunch on my final day on my first trip and enjoyed a nice array of dishes that left me leaving Aegina feeling full and satisfied.

One of the highlights of this restaurant is the fact it’s located right on the fish market, meaning there are cats and dogs in the vicinity.

There is plenty of indoor and outdoor seating available at the restaurant and the street is also covered, making it the perfect place to escape the summer sun.

places to visit in aegina-2 — Places to visit in Aegina, Greece

Kappos Etsi

Kappos Esti is a great place to enjoy some elevated modern Greek food. The quaint restaurant serves a variety of traditional dishes.

Kappos Etsi has a great outdoor seating area where you can enjoy your meal in the summer warmth while sipping on a glass of wine from their superb wine list.

The restaurant staff are attentive and make the experience even greater.

La Palma (Marathonas Beach)

On the popular beach of Marathonas sits the beachside cafe, La Palma. This restaurant and cafe serves food all day from a delicious and refreshing breakfast to Biftekia, a traditional Greek ‘burger’ of sorts.

The owners are exceptionally friendly and welcoming and La Palma is an essential place to visit on Aegina if you find yourself in Marathonas Beach.

marathonas beach in aegina — Food on Marathonas Beach

Along the Aegina Seafront

Along the seafront, you will find a large range of restaurants all with outdoor seating and seemingly specializing in nearly all kinds of European food.

I personally didn’t eat at any as none of the places seemed to be my cup of tea since I was on the hunt for octopus, but they were all crowded.

You can find everything from fish dishes to pizza and burgers so a great place to head to if you are with a group of people that can’t decide on what to eat.

Aegina Cafes

If you have a craving for coffee, you are in luck, Aegina has plenty of nice little cafes and coffee shops. I only had time for one coffee during my visit, which I had at Coffee Island on the recommendation from my hotel owner.

Coffee Island is actually a popular chain across Greece but I have to say the coffee is pretty decent (better than Starbucks by a mile) and the actual café setting is wonderful with spacious outdoor seating and Wi-Fi available.

What to Do in Aegina

Eat your Body Weight in Aegina Pistachios

The humble pistachio ranks so high on my very subjective and complicated nut rating scale. The beautiful green nut has found a sanctuary on the island of Aegina- so much so that it’s gained European Union protection.

pistachios in aegina greece — Pistachios on Aegina

Genetically, it is a different variety of pistachio compared to the more common ones found in supermarkets and is rated one of the best kinds in the world.

I can assure you the taste is phenomenal and worth heading to Aegina. The second you get off the ferry boat, you will find vendors selling pistachios and happily giving out free samples.

From the advice of my hotel owner, I headed to the stand just to the right (if you are facing inland) of the Alpha bank on the seafront.

The super-friendly woman working gave me a range of free samples, from pistachios with different levels of salt and some with lemon, pistachio butter (the most delicious thing I have ever eaten), and various different snacks.

I hastily purchased as much as I could carry of both nuts and pistachio butter, along with the best pistachio ice cream I have eaten.

They were all so good so I ended up heading back multiple times for more purchases (whoops).

Temple of Aphaia

Probably the most famous site on Aegina is the Temple of Aphaia, an impressive ancient Greek temple dating back to around 500 BC.

The impressive temple is 8 miles from Aegina’s main town and can be reached by car, bus, or taxi.

By Paweł ‘pbm’ Szubert (talk) – Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0

The bus schedule to the temple is honestly a bit complicated to understand and the buses run at infrequent times. A taxi, however, is an affordable option.

By the harbor, there are plenty of taxis waiting to take you. For around €35, you can take a taxi out to the temple and wait for 30 minutes while you explore and then drive you back to the main town.

If there are plenty of drivers waiting there, you will have the opportunity to negotiate a better price.

Temple of Apollo

On the edge of Aegina Town is the remains of the Temple of Apollo, a single pillar of the 6th-century temple remains to stand, although the ruins are still visible.

There is also a museum by the temple where you can learn all about the history of this amazing site and island.

As the temple is centrally located it is really easy to visit but the site is closed on Tuesdays. The temple is easy to find you just need to head left from the main harbor (facing inland) and you will reach the temple.

Soak in an Aegina Sunset

Aegina is one of the best places to take in the sunset. During the golden hour, the harbor is doused in a magical light, especially the small white church that sits out in the harbor.

From the main beach in the town, you can enjoy the sun setting as boats bob past and the beautiful colors reflecting off of the sea.

Visit Perdika

Toward the southern tip of the island is Perdika, a delightful fishing village. It is one of the best places to get fresh seafood from one of the tavernas.

This is also one of the most famous spots for seeing the octopus drying out in the sun, adding to the village’s traditional charm. To reach Perdika, you can drive, take a taxi, or head there by boat.

Cine Akrogiali Aegina

There are three open-air cinemas in Aegina and Cine Akrogiali is one of them.

I had the pleasure of going there on their opening night of the season, July 5, to see a Clint Eastwood movie in English (with Greek subtitles).

This was such a cool experience and was a great option for those not looking for a wild night but for something a bit more chilled out and relaxing. It was 8 Euros for a ticket and 3 Euros for a large popcorn.

It is open from early July until the end of September.

Explore Paleahora

Paleahora is the former capital of the island and is home to many impressive old churches built into the hillside. The village is located near the town of Kontos, a place that is home to the famous Nektarios Monastery.

It is rumored that there used to be 365 churches in the area, one for each day of the year. However, only 33 stand today- some of which have been restored and can be visited by the public.

Head out to the village by car or taxi as the village is located up in the hills of the middle of the island.

Aegina Beaches

Aegina is the ideal location for the Greek island beach experience since the island can easily be traveled to as a day trip from Athens. There are plenty of beaches on Aegina that can easily be reached by car, taxi, or water taxi.

Karnagio Beach

Karnagio beach is the beach to the left of Aegina main town just before you reach the Temple of Apollo. The large and spacious beach is sandy with crystal clear waters. T

he beach gradually slopes into the sea and you can walk out relatively far before getting out of your depth.

things to do in aegina greece-2 — Aegina travel guide

There are plenty of tavernas where you can enjoy drinks and food as you chill on the beach. Since the beach is located in the main town, you can easily walk there from your hotel.

The beach rarely gets crowded which makes it a pleasant spot to hang out in summer.

Moni Island Beach

Moni is a small, uninhabited island with a fantastic beach and plenty of nature. Only accessible by boat, this island paradise is the perfect place to go to if you want to enjoy some beach time as well as explore nature.

The beach is partly sandy but is mostly rocky with sublime waters that are clean and clear.

Behind the beach is a forest that stretches up the hillside and is an enchanting place to spend some time hiking. There is also some wildlife on the island such as mountain goats, deer, and peacocks.

The animals don’t perceive humans to be a threat and are pretty curious and may even come up to you.

To reach the beach, you will need to head there from Perdika by boat and the boat only runs during the summer months and is a quick 10-minute ride and costs 5 euros return.

Marathonas Beach

One of the most popular beaches in Aegina is Marathonas Beach. The shallow waters and location it is situated in make it ideal for families and those looking to relax by the seaside with a cafe (La Palma) nearby.

You can take a bus there, or as Aram did, hitchhike your way out there.

marathonas beach in aegina-2 — Marathonas Beach on Aegina

Portes Beach

For a more secluded beach experience, head out to Portes Beach. Situated on the opposite side of the island to Aegina town, this picturesque beach with a small harbor is a wonderful place to escape the crowds and relax.

There are several tavernas in the area so you can get some tasty food and enjoy a drink or two.

To reach the beach you will need to drive or take a water or regular taxi, although make sure you have arranged a pick up prior to getting to the beach.

Agia Marina

In the town of Agia Marina, there is a large sandy beach with plenty of amenities for tourists, such as sun beds, water sports, cafes, bars, and restaurants.

The large beach is spacious with clear water for snorkeling and seeing the resident fish.

However, it is located in one of the main resort areas and can get crowded with plenty of people frequenting it each day. The beach is reachable by car, taxi, or water taxi.

Alternatively, Agia Marina is a large town with plenty of places to stay and you can base yourself there.

what to do in aegina greece-2 — What to do in Aegina – Karnagio Beach

Souvala Beach

To the north of the island is Souvala beach, a semi-touristy beach located in a charming fishing village.

The biggest draw of this beach is there are thermal springs in the area which are believed to have healing properties and help clear up a range of skin diseases.

Attracting many locals, there are plenty of amenities around the beach with taverns and bars being readily available.

You can reach the beach by car or boat easily from Aegina Town. There are also a few places to stay in and around Souvala Beach.

Where to Stay on Aegina

Plaza Hotel

I stayed at the Plaza Hotel situated just on the edge of Aegina town towards the Temple of Apollo. The hotel is honestly amazing and the rooms are spacious and some even have a balcony overlooking Karnagio beach.

The owner of the hotel is extremely friendly and will treat you as a member of his family and will happily help you with anything you need to know during your stay.

–> For current rates and availability click here | Read reviews on TripAdvisor

Pantazis Studios

During my second stint in Aegina (and during high-season), I stayed with Pantazis Studios. This guesthouse is actually located a kilometer (just under a mile) from the main port- beware of that!

I didn’t know this and had to drag my belongings through the heat. The guesthouse owner was super nice and gave me a ride back into the main part of the city to catch my ferry back to Athens.

My room had a fridge and a bathroom and a comfortable bed. It was really relaxing and the air-conditioning was much-needed!

It is located one street away from the sea and in the middle of a residential area with a lot of pistachio trees. I definitely recommend staying there if you’re looking for a quiet area that is still close to the city.

–> For current rates and availability click here | Read reviews on TripAdvisor

Other Places to Stay in Aegina

Here are some alternative places to stay if you’re not interested in my recommendations above (they seriously are awesome though!):

Affordable & Mid-range: Danae Hotel | Check rates: Booking.com
Affordable & Mid-range: Hotel Aegina | Check rates: Booking.com
Luxury: Marini Luxury Apartments & Suites | Check rates: Booking.com
Luxury: The ROOF Seaview Apartment | Check rates: Booking.com

Airbnb in Aegina

A great option for accommodation on Aegina is to stay at an Airbnb. There are many choices for all budgets and types of travelers and we listed our favorites below:

Affordable: Entire flat 3 minutes from beach from $41/night | Check rates at Airbnb.com
Mid-range: Rosa Negra in Aegina town from $68/night | Check rates at Airbnb.com
Luxury: Villa with breathtaking views from $302/night | Check rates at Airbnb.com

Haven’t signed up for Airbnb just yet? It’s never too late to create an account! You can save $41 by using my referral code.

Get $41 off your first Airbnb booking >>

Tours to Aegina

If you are limited on time, you can easily visit Aegina on part of an organized tour and take in the highlights and eat some delicious pistachios. Here are a couple of tours I recommend checking out.

Here is a quick list and I put a bit more explanation with my favorites below that!

Athens: Full Day Tour & Sailing to Agistri, Moni, and Aegina: Tour the three beautiful islands of Agistri, Moni, and Aegina on this beautiful wooden sailboat.

As you will not travel far from Athens, you will really be able to get to know these three islands which are all in close vicinity of each other. The tour lasts for 10 hours and includes lunch with alcoholic drinks.

⇒ Click here to check tour prices, dates, and itinerary details

From Athens: Full-Day Cruise to Aegina, Poros, and Hydra: Take in three of the Saronic islands with this tour where you will spend some time on Aegina, as well as Poros and Hydra.

The 11-hour tour includes a buffet lunch with live entertainment as you cruise around the islands.

⇒ Click here to check tour prices, dates, and itinerary details

Final Thoughts on Aegina

I have been to Aegina twice and Aram has visited there once (without me). We really think it is a great day trip for those who are in Athens for quite a few days.

I highly recommend going there for the food, island vibes, and a break from the hustle of Greece’s capital city. Please leave us a comment if you have questions or are looking for additional information.

How to Take the Athens to Poros Ferry from Piraeus

November 12 2020 by Megan Starr Leave a Comment

One of the best places to visit as a day trip from Athens is the island of Poros. This guide gives all you need to know to take the Athens to Poros ferry from Piraeus port. It also gives port details and shows how to book a ticket in advance.

Looking to take a day tour to Poros instead? Click here for rates and availability for a top-rated tour to Poros, Aegina, and Hydra. It is a can’t-miss tour!

POROS QUICK REFERENCE

Last-minute planning? You can see our top travel recommendations for Poros right here:

Where to stay in Poros: Sto Roloi Island Houses (Budget), 7 Brothers Hotel (Mid-range), and Xenia Poros Image Hotel (Luxury).

Top-rated Saronic Islands tours (including some of Poros):

Saronic Islands full-day tour from Athens including Aegina, Poros, and Hydra (from $112 – bestseller!)
From Athens: Full-day cruise of the Saronic Islands (from $125)
VIP Cruise of the Saronic Islands from Athens (from $275)
Agistri, Moni, and Aegina full-day cruise from Athens (from $152)

Heading to Poros? We recommend traveling with Direct Ferries for the journey!

Need insurance for Greece? Be sure to check Greece travel insurance rates and coverage with our recommended provider, SafetyWing.

Renting a car on the mainland? You can get great options and the best rates here with Rentalcars.com.

3 Essential Things to Pack for Greece: Plug adapter (if coming from the US or a country that does not use a European plug), Sea bands motion sickness and seasickness bands (so essential if you’re taking a ferry to the islands!), and a Greece Lonely Planet guidebook.

How to Take the Athens to Poros Ferry from Piraeus

After my first visit to Greece’s Saronic islands, I was left wanting to see more of these idyllic islands and yearning for my next trip back.

When the opportunity arose to return to Athens, I knew that I was going to travel to Poros and enjoy everything the island had to offer.

Thankfully, Poros lived up to all my expectations and made for the perfect little getaway from Athens’ summer crowds.

This guide will take you through all you need to know for getting to Poros from Piraeus Port in Athens.

How to get the Athens to Poros ferry from Piraeus

Getting to Piraeus Port Near Athens

In the west of Athens, you will find the Port of Piraeus, the main hub for reaching the beautiful Saronic islands.

There are three main ways to get to port from either the city center or airport. They are taxi/transfer service, metro, or bus.

I, personally, traveled to the port directly using the Welcome Pickups transfer service. I opted to take advantage of a transfer service as I often find public transport overwhelming in large cities and the stress of traveling with bags is an absolute killer for me and causes me anxiety.

I’ll be honest, I love Welcome Pickups. I have used the service in several different countries (Italy several times, Greece several times, Spain a few times, and Germany once) and found it a brilliant experience each time.

All drivers speak English to a high standard and the drivers in Greece will happily tell you everything about Athens and its long history.

If you are heading to the port from the airport, the drivers will track your flight and plan their arrival based on the status of your flight.

If you are held up in a long customs line, the Welcome Pickups driver will wait at the airport for an hour or you will be given their WhatsApp details to text them about any delays so they know to wait a little longer.

In arrivals, the driver will be waiting for you, holding a sign with your name which totally makes you feel VIP.

How to get the Athens to Aegina ferry from Piraeus Welcome Pickups at Athens Airport — My Welcome Pickups driver was awesome

If you are getting picked up from your hotel, your driver will simply wait outside the hotel for you to come down.

During the booking process, you will be able to add on any extras you need for a smooth trip, including a Greek Sim card for your phone or tickets to any of Athens’ top attractions, such as the Acropolis.

Before adding any extra costs, the website will let you know the base price which will be calculated based on the number of people, bags, and pick-up location.

I wholeheartedly recommend this service if like me you are easily stressed out in crowds or when trying to navigate a city with a lot of baggage.

Insider Tip: I have often found Welcome Pickups to be cheaper than a regular taxi, so definitely plan ahead and see if this is the case if you’re on a budget!

>> Click here to book a transfer with Welcome Pickups in Athens

If you are looking for a cheaper way to travel and have plenty of time to get to the port, you can opt to use the bus or metro services available. From the airport, expect a lengthy travel time by bus, which fully depends on traffic conditions at that time.

Although the metro is unaffected by traffic, you will need to rely on making the correct connections and traveling from the airport to the port can take up to two hours.

I find booking an airport transfer SO much easier than spending two hours on public transportation.

Is there Luggage Storage at Piraeus Port?

Yes, there is luggage storage available at Piraeus Port. Luggage storage is dependent on how you are traveling to and from the port.

For those traveling on regular ferry services, you will find luggage storage at Heation Passenger Terminal or Akti Letionia, both of which will store your bags for the day.

For cruise ship passengers, you will find luggage storage at Terminal A. Poros is close enough to Athens for a day trip, so being able to leave your luggage is very convenient, although I do recommend spending a night or two on Poros if you have the time.

Is There Food at Piraeus Port?

There are plenty of food options in and around the port where you can purchase anything from refreshments and light snacks to heartier options like burgers or Gyros.

I would definitely eat before hopping on your Athens to Poros ferry.

How to get the Athens to Aegina ferry from Piraeus Perikafe — Delicious flat white from Perikafe at the Piraeus Port

Outside of the port boundary, you will find Perikafe a great little spot for specialty coffee. Despite being a chain, they had a pretty killer flat white. And coffee in Athens is definitely a can’t-miss experience in Greece for all!

Around the corner from Perikafe is Live More Juice Bar. They serve up great, refreshing juices that are perfect for cooling down during the summer months.

Athens to Poros Ferry Options

There are several options for ferries between Athens and Poros. I book all of my tickets in advance with Direct Ferries.

During the week, Blue Star Ferries offer FlyingCat and Flying Dolphin options that will transport you between the ports in just over an hour.

These ferries are for foot passengers only. If you want to bring your car on the island (they are permitted on Poros), there are larger ferries that dock at the port on weekends and are able to transport vehicles.

The Poros car ferry on weekends is significantly cheaper for walk-on passengers than the FlyingCat or FlyingDolphin options but it does take far longer.

The difference between FlyingCat and FlyingDolphin ferries is the size. FlyingCats are much larger and more comfortable than the FlyingDolphin. In addition to the size difference, the FlyingCat comes with a nice little cafe.

Price-wise, both ferries cost the same.

How to Buy a Ferry Ticket from Athens to Poros

There are two ways to buy tickets to Poros, both of which are simple and stress-free. Tickets can be bought either by heading to the port and purchasing them on the day or by purchasing them online prior to travel.

It’s highly advisable to book tickets in advance in order not to be disappointed, as there are a limited number of ferries each day and tickets do sell out.

I actually always wanted to visit Poros but the reason I did opt to go there the specific day I did was that Hydra tickets were sold out.

Even though you book tickets online, you will still need to pick up the tickets in person from the port but the tickets will at least be guaranteed.

Booking your Athens to Poros ferry tickets online is really easy and convenient and the process is fairly self-explanatory.

I used Direct Ferries to book my tickets between Athens and Poros, a company I have used throughout Europe to book various ferry tickets.

The website is available in multiple languages and currencies, making booking the ferries very simple. You will need to select a time of travel, which is not transferable and will also determine which boat you will travel to Poros on.

>> Click here to book your Athens – Poros tickets with Direct Ferries

Booking the Fast Ferry to Poros from Piraeus

If you opt to sail with the FlyingCat or FlyingDolphin, you’ll select your time and you will need to choose which area of the boat you desire to sit in.

The options for both the boats are the same and split into lounge one or lounge two.

FlyingDolphin Booking

On the FlyingDolphin, lounge one is at the front of the boat with several rows of multiple people. This is a great option if you are traveling in a large group and many people want to sit together.

Lounge two is at the rear of the boat and is split into three sets of seats with pairs of seats next to the windows and in the middle blocks of four seats.

This lounge is great for those not wanting to sit in large groups or next to people they do not know.

FlyingCat Booking

On the FlyingCat, it’s slightly different since the boat is much larger. The boat was not completely full when I used it I was able to sit anywhere regardless of the lounge I purchased.

The lounge you choose on either boat makes no difference in price and both are very comfortable.

The boats are different, however, and if you have the flexibility and choice in which boat to choose, I’d recommend the FlyingCat for convenience since there is a small cafe on board.

However, the FlyingDolphin does offer the ability to grab fresh air at the back of the boat.

Car Ferry Booking

If you opt for the car ferry option, there is only one deck option available when purchasing which makes the booking process far simpler.

You will, however, need to book a space for your vehicle if you have one, which will inevitably increase the price.

I haven’t traveled on the car ferry myself, so I can not really say too much more about it. Most of the ferries to Poros operating in that area are of high quality, so I am sure it is a pleasant way to travel to Poros.

I do not recommend taking this ferry if you are traveling by foot because it takes over double the time of the FlyingCat and Dolphin series boats and sails less frequently. It is cheaper, however.

Picking Up Your Pre-booked Ferry Tickets at Piraeus Port

Tickets for the ferries need to be picked up from the port and designated offices as they do not send them out or offer you the ability to print them from home.

During the booking process, you will be given a list of places to pick up the tickets from- some of which may charge a small processing fee.

I found the best place to pick them up from was the Piraeus port itself since it was free and you are already next to the boats.

I recommend bringing ID with you. They may ask for it while picking up the tickets even if they didn’t ask for mine.

At the port, you will be assigned your seats. Once on the boat, people seem very adamant to stick to their assigned seats.

So, if you are traveling in a big group, or even as a couple, you may find yourself sitting apart despite booking the tickets at the same time.

I really recommend booking all your tickets before your trip starts and then picking them all up from the port at once. Sometimes it is more of a challenge to find the ticket office on the islands to do a pickup there.

>> Click here to book your tickets in advance with Direct Ferries

How Much is A Ticket From Athens to Poros?

A one-way ticket on the FlyingCat or FlyingDolphin costs around €26.50 (as of March 2020). This price is somewhat consistent throughout the year but it can increase or decrease as the date approaches.

The car ferry costs somewhere around €14 if you intend to travel by foot. However, if you want to bring your vehicle to the island, you will need to pay extra. A car of any size will cost an extra €32. A motorbike under 200cc is €7 while anything above 200cc is €10.

Tips for the Athens – Poros Ferry Ride

The hour or so long ride on the FlyingCat/Dolphin boats is insanely beautiful and pleasant. You will travel along mainland Greece’s scenic coastline and pass by little islands where the small towns and villages climb up the hillside.

If you are on the FlyingDolphin, I recommend bringing water and snacks as there is no food available to buy onboard. On the FlyingCat, there is a fully-stocked cafe that accepts all major credit cards.

You will need to be at the port at least 15 minutes before as the boats do not hang around for late passengers. If you need to pick up your tickets, you will need to arrive even earlier in case there is a line at the offices.

On the FlyingDolphin, take the opportunity to stand at the back of the boat and take in the beauty of the surrounding area, during the sunset the sky glows orange and offices fantastic views.

Prewarning- sometimes this area is really dirty with the smoke from the boat.

I haven’t traveled on the car ferry, so I am not able to give a personal account of this journey, however, as the boat is large, I imagine it comes with a fully-stocked cafe and is a comfy way to travel as you slowly cruise through the Saronic Gulf.

If you are prone to seasickness, it is advisable to purchase an anti-seasickness band before traveling to Greece.

The water isn’t rough but if you are like me, seasickness can strike even when the water is as calm as can be. Click here to purchase a cheap pair of sea-bands for your trip.

Once You Arrive on Poros From Athens

There are several ports on Poros and the FlyingDolphin/Cat ferries will stop close to the center of Poros Town where you will find many of the main sights and plenty of awesome restaurants where you can indulge on fresh seafood along with other Greek specialties.

For those planning to stay overnight, there are plenty of hotels in the town center. Beaches can be found on the outskirts of the town and throughout the rest of the island.

Since cars are allowed on the island, there is a network of buses and taxis that connect Poros with other parts of the island.

The larger vehicle ferry docks towards the edge of Poros town, but since the island is small, everything is within walking distance.

If you have your own vehicle with you, Poros is easily navigable and from the ferry, it won’t take too long to reach many of the main areas of the island.

Organized Tours to Poros from Athens

If you are looking to visit a few Greek islands in one day, there are several organized tours that will take you to Poros, along with stunning Hydra and the gorgeous island of Aegina.

The day-long tours head to each of the islands and spend a little bit of time exploring the main sights. The Poros tours are popular and may sell out.

Luckily, there are a few to choose from, so if one has sold out, another should hopefully have some space.

⇒ Hydra, Poros, and Aegina Full-Day Cruise with Lunch

⇒ Athens Combo: Greek Islands Cruise and the Acropolis Ticket

Getting Back to Athens From Poros

Returning to Athens from Poros is very easy and requires just doing the same journey in reverse. I do, however, recommend having all of your tickets booked in advance to ensure you do not get stuck on the island.

I would also pick the tickets up from Piraeus, as finding the pickup location is much easier than in the small island towns.

Alternatively, you can use Poros as a launchpad to explore some of the other Greek islands, such as Hydra and Spetses, which are both connected to Poros by boat.

Where to Stay on Poros

Poros is a well-developed island and there are plenty of places to stay on it for all budgets.

With high-end resorts and budget apartments, you will be able to find a place that suits your traveling style, although some are located a little outside of the town center.

Here are my Poros accommodation recommendations:

Budget – Sto Roloi Island Houses
Midrange – 7 Brothers Hotel
High end – Xenia Poros Image Hotel

Final Thoughts on My Trip to Poros

I thoroughly enjoyed Poros and found the island to be a great day trip from Athens. The island has a slightly more chilled out vibe than Athens and was different than the other Saronic Islands or Greek Islands I had visited.

I really enjoyed sitting by the coast and enjoying fresh seafood and watching the day go by.

I went to Poros during the high season and although there are plenty of tourists around, it is still easy to relax and the beaches are not as busy as some of the more popular island destinations around Greece.

I hope this guide helps you confidently book your Athens to Poros ferry.

Please let me know if you have additional questions!

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Sofia Cafes: Where to Find the Best Coffee in Sofia, Bulgaria

November 12 2020 by Megan Starr 4 Comments

Are you on the hunt for the best coffee in Sofia? This Sofia cafes guide will help you out!

I was in Sofia this past March and before arriving, I had my heart set on creating a coffee guide to the Bulgarian capital. Once I arrived there, I actually ended up slightly hard-pressed to find enough cafes to put on the list. I pretty much went to the same cafe for the same coffee daily and was never given other cafe names by locals to test out.

Fast forward to August and September where I actually picked up and moved to Bulgaria for my next ‘out of Schengen’ stint. I had big plans to travel around a bit and finally visit Budludzha, but eventually, I got too lazy to even do any of that.

My revised plans were to stick around my apartment and just work from there on a daily basis. Once I arrived at the apartment, I realized that working from there wasn’t really feasible for countless reasons, so I took off to hunt down some cafes. This guide will show solely the cafes I loved in addition to where to find the best coffee in Sofia, Bulgaria.

If you have any further recommendations, please feel free to list them in the comments so I can check them out when I am back in the city next!

Before I get started, I should mention that I visited some of these cafes like thirty times. I was in Sofia over a month and I found my routine within a day. I never worked from home, but rather from some of these cafes. I would start at Baker Brothers for an hour or two, walk down a bit to Barista Coffee and More, and finish my day at about 10pm at Fabrika Daga.

Without fail, this was my daily routine. I have never experienced so much productivity in my life in a city and I definitely have some of these places and the city of Sofia to thank! This is such a great hub for digital nomads or location independent creatives like myself.

These cafes all have different perks (and one is one of the best places to eat in Sofia, in my opinion), but all offer good coffee (but some much better than others).

Disclaimer: the photos below are poor quality. I never took photos in Sofia and when I did, I hadn’t realized I had my ISO cranked up until I uploaded these before leaving and it was too late to take new ones.

Drekka

Go here for: The Coffee

Drekka is awesome. The cafe doubles as an accessories shop selling everything from Kalitas to a variety of artisanal teas. They were not around (that I know of) during my first visit to Sofia in March, but had opened and quickly earned a reputation for being coffee experts in the city.

Since I had been traveling with my Aeropress and could make black coffee at the drop of a hat, I opted for a flat white and it was well-made and the beans from Taf Coffee (Athens, Greece) were exceptional. Drekka also offers loyalty cards to customers.

While I was so thrilled to get a tasty coffee my first day in Sofia, I wasn’t able to get back to Drekka after my initial visit as it wasn’t a good space to work and I spent my days in Bulgaria working nearly 17 hour days, daily.

The barista actually advised me of a nearby cafe that had good coffee but also provided a good working space and environment. I listened to his advice and that cafe ended up being one of my daily haunts.

You can find Drekka at 60 Uilyam Gladston in Sofia. To find out additional information, please check out their Website, Facebook, or Instagram.

Fabrika Daga

Go here for: The Food, Coffee, and Social Atmosphere

Where do I even begin with this place? First of all, I heard raving remarks about it back in March. I tried stopping by and the place was so packed and I was feeling so claustrophobic that day after my flight, that I didn’t even venture inside of the establishment. No cafe could be that good.

Or could it? Fabrika Daga was one of the first places I checked out when I was back in Sofia after my week in Plovdiv and after one sip of their coffee and one bite of their goat cheese, pear, quinoa, and cashew salad, I knew I was going to be going there on a daily basis.

And I did. I must have had that same salad 30 times there (I am salivating just thinking about it) and while I usually was coffee’d out by the time I went inside, they always provided me with palatable, local craft beer. They also carry some really amazing Bulgarian wines for the wine lover.

Fabrika Daga actually means ‘rainbow factory’. The atmosphere was social, friendly, and everyone inside seemed happy. I never had a bad interaction with the staff and they all knew me by the end of my stint in Sofia. They knew my order and would chat with me as the hours dwindled away and I was the last person to leave the cafe almost every single night. Their menu is awesome.

They have several salad options, which was a blessing for me as my kitchen in my flat was lousy and I never could cook anything more than ramen inside of it.

They also offer a buffet on the weekends and while I never had it (I think my goat cheese salad had some sort of addictive substance in it as I never strayed too far from ordering it), it was immensely popular amongst locals and expats and the place becomes packed with hungry customers.

Perhaps the very best thing about Fabrika Daga is that they have decided that one location is not enough. The next time I am in Sofia, I will be able to visit Fabrika Daga 2! I put the location on the map above so you can check it out if you’re in that area of the city.

Fabrika Daga can be found at Ulitsa Veslets 10 in Sofia. To find out more information, including their opening hours, check out their Facebook or Instagram.

Chucky’s Coffee House

Go here for: The Coffee

Remember how I mentioned I went to one cafe and one cafe alone the first time I was in Sofia? Well, this was that cafe. Having been in Timisoara, Romania for months where the coffee was pretty awful, I longed for a good cup of joe when I arrived in Sofia.

I darted for Chucky’s and was so satisfied with the stuff, that I made this my ‘go-to’ coffee shop for the few days I was in Sofia that time. Unfortunately, I never made it back when I lived in Sofia as I was living in another area of the city and it was a pain to attempt getting to Chucky’s for me.

The cafe is very small and practical. This is not the space to spend hours working as people are constantly coming and going to get that caffeine fix. Quick tip- if you’re into craft beer, there is a stellar craft beer shop next door owned by an Englishman from Manchester.

This makes Chucky’s even better as you can get your caffeine and then cancel it out with a beer afterward. To sum things up, Chucky’s has some of the very best coffee in Sofia.

Chucky’s Coffee House can be found at Hristo Belchev 29 in Sofia. To find out more information, including their opening hours, check out their Website, Facebook, or Instagram.

2 Giraffes Espresso Bar

Go here for: The Workspace

Truth be told, I went here one of my first days living in Bulgaria in August. I had heard from a friend that they had really good coffee and had just opened in the city center. While their coffee wasn’t to my taste (we are all different and it doesn’t mean that they have bad coffee at all!), I did find a cafe that smelled like chocolate (yes!) and offered a comfortable workspace.

I worked from 2 Giraffes for a few hours that day and ordered multiple coffees. I never went back to the cafe once I discovered the places that later became my ‘Sofia routine’, but I can highly recommend this cafe if you’re looking for a practical place to work in the city.

2 Giraffes can be found at Ulitsa Alabin 30 in Sofia city center. To find out more information, including their opening hours, check out their Facebook page.

Dabov Specialty Coffee

Go here for: The Coffee

I must preface this by saying that I never actually got to Dabov when I was in Sofia. I did, however, enjoy their coffee as they were supplying beans to Fabrika Daga.

It is not that I never tried to make it there, but it is more that I failed. The day I set off to finally try their cafe out, it was 37C (or 99F) outside. I was walking to meet a friend for Nepalese that evening and set off a couple hours earlier by foot to stop by Dabov on the way.

This was all on the complete opposite side of the city than where I was staying and needless to say, walking in that heat (or walking at all) was an overly ambitious task. Next time. I have had their beans and they are renowned in Sofia for having tasty coffee, so check it out!

You can find Dabov Specialty Coffee at Ulitsa Lyuben Karavelov 58 in Sofia. To find out more, including their opening hours, check out their Website, Facebook, or Instagram.

From Barista Coffee and More

Go here for: The Workspace

Above I made mention of a cafe that was referred to me via the barista at Drekka that would be excellent for a workspace. Well, this is that cafe. This was the place I worked at every single day in Sofia (there are a few of these places, but this is the place I spent the longest amount of time at).

Words can not express how much I wish every city had a From Barista Coffee and More. I usually ordered a cappuccino upon arrival, took a seat a the long workstation area, and got to work. I surprisingly have no photos of the workstation area I am referring to, but trust me, this cafe is set up for remote workers and people who love coffee.

From Barista Coffee and More offers light snacks, baked goods, any type of coffee you could imagine, and a friendly atmosphere. I saw the same people in here on a regular basis and it was pretty inspiring. Aside from that long workstation table, there is a nice and quiet terrace and plenty of other seating inside.

They also offer a public computer if you need to use it for something. One of my favorite services they offered was free printing. There is a printer at the workstation area and you are free to use at your own will. From Barista Coffee and More is actually located close to Fabrika Daga, so you can kill two birds with one stone like I did on a daily basis.

You can find From Barista Coffee and More at Ulitsa Bacho Kira 26 in Sofia. To find out more, check out their Website, Facebook, or Instagram. Their website shows better photos of the work area and they actually have a total of three locations in Sofia but I have only been to this one.

Baker Brothers

Go here for: The Bread

I actually didn’t discover Baker Brothers until about a week or two into being in Sofia… but once I did, it became a daily regular for me. I would stop there first as it was closest to where I was staying, and then I would jaunt down to From Barista Coffee and More and Fabrika Daga.

This cafe not only provides decent coffee and free wifi but they actually have the best bread I have ever tasted. Germans can rave on about how good their bread is, but if I put them inside of this cafe, they would take back their words instantly. It is SO good. I eventually started buying loaves and taking them back with me to make sandwiches… and I hate sandwiches.

They also offer artisanal hummus (I would take home a tub of the beetroot hummus to pair with the bread), local cheeses, and craft beer. The gourmet products they sell were delicious every time I purchased one. But… their bread! I can’t stop thinking about it.

I made it my daily mission to enjoy a goat cheese scone there and every morning it put a smile on my face. Anyway, you can easily work from, enjoy a solid coffee, and taste some of the best bread in the world there.

You can find Baker Brothers at Ulitsa Georgi S. Rakovski 44 in Sofia. To find out more, including their opening hours, check out their Facebook page.

New cafes are popping up all the time in Sofia, so if you have any recommendations, please put them in the comments section. I also did not make it to many more cafes aside from these throughout my stay, so this list certainly isn’t exhaustive. Thanks!

20 Essential Things to do in Athens, Greece in Winter

October 23 2020 by Megan Starr 1 Comment

One of the best things about Greece is the weather. There are varying climates throughout the country, but Athens has tolerable weather even during the winter compared to northern and central Europe.

This is a guide of things to do in Athens in winter.

ATHENS QUICK REFERENCE

Last-minute planning? You can see our top travel recommendations for Athens right here:

Where to stay in Athens: COCO-MAT Athens Jumelle (Luxury), Attalos Hotel (mid-range hotel with Acropolis views and where I stay!), and Mosaikon (budget hostel).

Top-rated Acropolis tours and tickets (+ other cool day trips!):

Acropolis Small-Group Guided Tour with Entry Ticket (from $66 – bestseller!)
Pre-booked Acropolis Ticket with Audio Tour on Your Phone (from $21)
Acropolis Skip-the-Line: Guided Walking Tour with Entrance Ticket (from $50)
Full-Day Tour & Sailing to Agistri, Moni, & Aegina from Athens (from $153)
Ancient Corinth & Daphni Monastery Tour from Athens (from $69)
From Athens: Full-Day Rail Tour to Meteora (from $54)

Want access to free sights and awesome discounts at restaurants in Athens? Get your hands on an Athens City Pass!

Need insurance for Greece? Be sure to check Greece travel insurance rates and coverage with our recommended provider, SafetyWing.

Renting a car in Athens? You can get great options and the best rates here with Rentalcars.com.

Things to do in Athens in Winter

I have been to Athens quite a few times and my first trip there was during winter.

The second one was at the beginning of spring but the temperatures had remained quite cold during that time so it was like taking a proper winter vacation, even though an Athens winter is comparably warmer and sunnier than that of Germany’s or Norway’s, two places I have called home in Europe.

This guide is geared at first-timers traveling to Athens during winter or the colder months.

While some of the activities and sights on this guide seem like common sense if you’re visiting Athens, the others are some personal favorites that we think you might like.

If you have additional recommendations for Athens in winter, please leave them in the comments section for us to explore next time and for potential travelers to the Greek capital city.

Renting a car in Athens

One of the best ways to enjoy Athens is by renting a car and visiting some of the amazing sights outside of the capital city.

You can even take your car to some of the nearby islands and cruise around visiting them in an easier capacity.

Thankfully, Athens’ weather is never that cold and doesn’t really get snowy so you can drive pretty easily most of the year.

>> Click here to rent a car in Athens

Do you need travel insurance in Athens

If you find yourself booking those desirable tickets to Athens in winter (okay… or summer), you will definitely want to ensure you’re covered by good and reliable travel insurance.

SafetyWing is a Norwegian brand that covers travelers all around the world and we highly recommend them to our readers.

>> Click here to get a Greece travel insurance quote

Athens city card

It is brilliant to have a city card, or city pass, when in a city because you will have a chance to explore the city either free or at a discounted rate.

Athens is no exception and has a card that will give you discounts galore at cafes, restaurants, bars, transportation, museums and much more!

>> Click here to get your hands on the Athens Card

Unlimited ‘on-the-go’ Wi-fi in Athens

If you’re someone who desires to stay connected at all times (*sheepishly raises hand*) then you will want to have pocket wifi with you at all times.

Fortunately, this is an easy and affordable service in Athens and you can enjoy unlimited wifi by renting 4g pocket wifi in Athens.

>> Click here to get unlimited wifi and internet in Athens

How to Get to Athens from the Airport

There are many options for getting to Athens from the airport but my favorite way is with Welcome Pickups.

I have used them on numerous occasions myself and if you are considering a taxi from the airport, this works out way better, especially if there is more than one in your travel party.

The drivers with Welcome Pickups all speak impeccable English and will greet you with water, a SIM card (upon request), and will have a sign holding your name.

They will be there an hour early and will even stay late if your arrival is delayed.

Click here to learn more about Welcome Pickups or to book your trip with them.

What to Pack for Athens in Winter

There are heaps of things you can throw in that suitcase for Athens but below are a few things that we think are absolutely crucial to bring with you when visiting Athens in winter.

Please feel free to leave a comment with other essentials we may have missed!

Good walking boots or shoes: This is a must! And make sure they have a good grip on the bottom of them, particularly if you’re visiting ancient cultural sights as the marble is pretty slippery, especially if the ground becomes wet. Megan recommends her vegan Dr. Martens while Aram recommends a good pair of Nikes.
Greece guidebook: If you’re not down to be glued to your phone the entire trip and internet searches (rightfully so!), you should invest in a good guidebook for Greece. We recommend both Lonely Planet Greece (great for budget travelers) as well as Fodor’s Essential Greece (great for those looking for more detailed information about sights and places).
Mobile power bank: Greece is ridiculously photogenic and Athens is no exception. You won’t want to be stuck inside of a cafe charging your phone because you ran out of power. Back that up! Bring a mobile power bank like this one with you.
Lightweight jacket: It is pretty mild in Athens in winter so you definitely don’t need a winter parka, but you will be thankful to have a lightweight jacket with you. We love these ones from Helly Hansen, a brand from Norway.

Best Winter Athens Tours

Athens is a magnificent city and there are countless spots to discover in the Greek capital. With so many great tours offered in the city, visitors will find a lot to do in Athens.

These are some of our recommendations for awesome tours in Athens in winter:

What to do in Athens in Winter

Visit the Acropolis

Um… naturally this is on the list. You really can’t go to Athens and not visit the Acropolis, now can you?

Actually, you can- Aram did it. But, I don’t suggest you do the same.

Things to visit in Athens in winter = the ACROPOLIS!

The Acropolis represents democracy and the unique history of Athens.

It is the sole reason why many actually travel to Athens in the first place but it is also such an epic and humbling piece of history that it really is a worthwhile visit.

And the best thing about seeing the Acropolis during winter is that it is not as crowded. And trust me, it gets CROWDED.

You can click the link to read more from my guide to visiting the Acropolis – it gives tips, tour and ticket information, and basically everything you could want to know prior to visiting.

Hike to Mount Lycabettus

The highest point in Athens center is called Lycabettus Hill. It offers spectacular views and can be easily visited with the help of a cable car (or by foot).

The cable car, or your feet, will take you to a height of 277 meters where you will find a cafe and restaurant as well as the church of Agios Georgios. There are over 300,000 visitors annually to Lycabettus Hill.

The cable cars run every 30 minutes but more frequently during peak hours. The price for a one way is 5€ or 7€ for a roundtrip ticket.

Click here for additional information about Lycabettus Hill

Indulge in Delicious Greek Food

One of the best things about Greece is the insanely delicious food you have right at your fingertips. I seriously go nuts when I am in Greece (although I’m pretty basic and am pleased with a salad with a lot of feta and olives).

So, naturally, one of the best things to do in Athens during the winter is to EAT.

There are so many places you can enjoy a tasty Greek meal but I assume you aren’t looking to venture across the entire city to find one. In the Acropolis area, you will find one of my favorite restaurants, Arcadia.

It specializes in traditional Greek cuisine as well as that of Arcadia, or the Peloponnese Region. You can get hearty moussaka, dolmadakia, or souvlaki there.

They also have a lot of vegetarian-friendly dishes ready to be served to their veggie customers.

You will find a lot of tasty food throughout the city but definitely do your research before to see what people are rating the restaurants. Many in the touristy center are not great and the ones that tend to be few and far between.

Stroll Around and Photograph Plaka and Anafiotika

Plaka is a neighborhood in the center of Athens that is home to some of the most epic history on the planet.

Somehow, this extremely touristy area still has hidden corners and places where you can get lost and feel like you have the place to yourself.

Inside of Plaka, you will find the Ancient Agora, the Acropolis and its monuments, The Parthenon, Dionysus Theatre, the Odeum of Herdes Atticus, and a whole lot of restaurants, cafes, and bars.

Not only will you find Greek history aplenty here, but you will also find a lot of Roman and Ottoman history here from their occupation of Athens.

Everyone tends to shy away from the ‘touristy centers’ of a city but how you can ignore an area like Plaka when there is so much history packed into one place?

There is a reason people are there and it is because it is epic. Inside of Plaka, you will find several museums, too.

The Greek Children’s Art Museum, the Jewish Museum, the Museum of Greek Folk Art, and the Frissiras Museum are all within this ancient neighborhood.

On the northern side of the Acropolis and within Plaka is the picturesque neighborhood of Anafiotika. The first houses there were built by Otto the Bavarian Prince in the 17th century.

You will have a bit of an uphill walk to navigate this neighborhood that looks like it belongs on a Greek Islands postcard, but it is worth it.

Unfortunately, this area can be troublesome to navigate around if you lack mobility or are a disabled traveler.

Eat Pistachios and Chill on Aegina

One of the best day trips from Athens is Aegina. This Saronic Island is known for its pistachios but I, personally, think it has much more to offer than that… even in the offseason.

I went there at the end of winter this year and the weather is chilly but definitely nicer than where I had previously been in Germany.

Getting to Aegina from Athens is quick and easy and you just take a 50-minute ferry to the island.

Once you’re on Aegina, you can circumnavigate the island and see the sights (there is a historic temple on it!) or just remain in the main town and chill out.

I have been to Aegina a couple of times and I prefer relaxing when there… and eating a lot of fresh seafood.

There is a fish market in the town center that has some really nice, local restaurants surrounding it. Just make sure that whatever seafood you order is fresh and not frozen (they will tell you if you ask).

Also, don’t forget to grab a bag of pistachios or pistachio butter to take home with you!

Click here to see our guide of things to do in Aegina.

Take a day trip to Hydra or another Saronic Island

Are you looking for yet another island day trip from Athens? There are some other nearby islands that are also great and have a fair amount to do in the offseason.

You have Agistri, an island that you can reach easily if you pair it with Aegina. Agistri is small and quiet but it is a really cool and natural island with a lot of greenery and trees.

Many things will be shut down during the off-season but there are some places that will remain open; after all, people do live there.

Then you have Poros. I find Poros to be a very ‘local’ island, as it just seems very liveable. There are heaps of cafes and restaurants on Poros and you will notice that many close in the off-season, but some will still remain open for the people living there.

Don’t forget to visit Russian Beach, a beach on Poros that has and remnants of a Russian Naval Base on it.

One of my favorite places is Hydra. While it is questionably not in the Saronic Gulf, it is still sometimes lumped into the bunch. It is one of the most charming places I have ever visited.

There are many things to do in Hydra, but I really just love sitting at a café (yes, some will be open!) and people watching.

You can check out the fishermen bringing in the local, daily catch and the vocal cats waiting for their next meal. Getting from Athens to Hydra is pretty simple via a ferry but I do recommend booking in advance.

things to do in athens in winter-5 — Spetses, Greece

Or… if you’re really looking for a local experience and one that is probably better done as an overnight trip and not a day trip, go to Spetses.

This romantic and quiet island is located the furthest out of any of the aforementioned but it is an absolute stunner.

The only issue is that not much is open in the off-season. So, if you’re prepared for a truly quiet and local experience, book a trip from Athens to Spetses. But, you have been warned!

Click here for a guide of what to do in Spetses.

Watch the Sunset at Notos Café

When I was last in Greece, it was definitely not winter. However, Aram went to watch the sunset at this café that is right on the beach with his sister and cousin.

I neglected to go because I was being boring but he had an amazing time and said the sunset was absolutely epic.

While the colors and sun’s position may vary during the cooler months, it is definitely worth venturing down to the café or just the general area and seeing a different side of Athens while the day ends.

Visit the Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center

The Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center is a must-visit place in Athens at any time of the year.

Located on the Bay of Faliro, it is a large public complex where cultural, educational, athletic, environmental, and recreational activities take place frequently.

Also at the Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center, you can visit the Greek National Opera, the National Library of Greece, and the largest green area in Athens, Stavros Niarchos Park.

There is a free bus from the city center of Athens to the Cultural Center. You can find out more here.

Enjoy Some of the Best Coffee in Athens

Interestingly, I find Athens to have a really great specialty coffee scene. I have had amazing coffee after amazing coffee and the baristas are really taking pride in their product. What is also crazy to me is that even the chain coffee shops have good coffee.

I don’t mind popping in a Coffee Island, a Starbucks-like chain in Athens that is way better than Starbucks, and getting a flat white there if there are no independent coffee shop around.

They also serve my favorite feta marble cakes, so I have done this one far too many occasions.

But, Athens knows how to do good coffee. My favorite place in Athens to get a good flat white is Foyer Espresso Bar (but there are quite a few places you can go to!) You can find Foyer at Panepistimiou 46 in Athens.

Visit the National Gardens in Athens

Also known as the Royal Garden, the National Gardens of Athens are the biggest central garden in the Greek capital city.

The 15.5 hectares park is located between the Kolonaki and Pangrati districts in the city. It is beautiful in any weather whether it be the hot Athens’ summers or during the mild winters.

However, it sometimes closes when there is too much wind.

The National Gardens of Athens were founded in 1838-1840 and there are multiple monuments, squares, and other things to see and photograph there.

Take a Short Trip to Glyfada

The largest suburb in southern Athens is Glyfada. Aside from having a really great nightlife there, you will find some of the city’s best restaurants, bars, and cafes.

In general, it is a modern district with a high-end lifestyle. There is also the popular, local beach ‘Voula’ located there.

One of the top things to do in Glyfada is to shop at Metaxa Avenue and Grigoriou Lampraki streets. Glyfada is only a 40-minute bus ride from the center of Athens and you can find buses A3 and B3 going there.

Check Out Street Art (and Awesome Food!) in Exarcheia

One of the most controversial, yet intriguing, neighborhoods in Athens is Exarcheia. Located merely a short distance from the city center, Exarcheia is known for its anarchist vibe and gritty streets and eateries.

The murals you will find are often politically-charged and you can find several bookshops, vegan cafes, and music and vinyl shops dotting the streets there.

This is my favorite neighborhood in Athens simply for the fact that whenever I return, there is something new or a fresh mural to check out.

Do be careful about taking too many photos openly there as some of the locals living in Exarcheia are not keen on that.

Sip a Cocktail at 360 Cocktail Lounge

I rarely think that places right in the city center of a city outshine places that aren’t since they are catering to tourists to a far extreme, but the 360 Cocktail Lounge is a rare exception.

It is located right at Monastiraki Square and atop the 360 Hotel.

I was recommended to go to 360 by a local. I couldn’t believe a local person told me to hang out around Monastiraki Square, but low and behold, the cocktail lounge had a large array and offers a wonderful view of the Acropolis.

If you’re a cocktail lover, this is one of the best places to get your fix.

Eat a Karithopita Walnut Spice Cake alongside a Cup of Tea

In many cafes and establishments around Athens, you will find the spice-filled Karithopita Walnut Spice Cake, a local delight made from an array of spices like cloves, nutmeg, and cinnamon.

This cake gives a scent of the season and is one of the most delicious things you can eat in Athens. Pair it along with a hot cup of tea, and you have the perfect winter combination.

Indulge in Craft Beer in Athens

Athens actually has a pretty cool craft beer scene and you can find it everywhere from the bustling city center to the outskirts of the capital.

Interestingly enough, my favorite place to go for a craft beer is, again, in the city center. Beer Time is a craft beer bar that has an array of different brews and a really good selection of local Greek craft beer.

Beer Time is located so close to the main sights of Athens that you can easily walk there with no problems. It is located in a small square along with other restaurants, cafes, and bars.

During the warmer months, the square is filled with outdoor seating but Beer Time is really cozy during the winter months, in my opinion. They also have non-alcoholic beer for those who are not interested in drinking.

You can find Beer Time at Plateia Iroon in the Psirri district near Monastiraki.

Have a Bowl of Avgolemono Soup

If you’re looking to try some traditional Greek Christmas foods, you can easily do it in Athens in winter.

One of the most common foods you will find during this time of year is Avgolemono soup, a chicken broth made with a lemon and egg mixture and usually is served alongside rice or orzo.

This soup is traditionally eaten around the Christmas holidays, but definitely ask around Athens for it during the winter months and see if anyone has it ic. It is worth a shot if you are a soup-lover like myself.

Visit the National Historical Museum of Athens

The National Historical Museum of Athens was founded in 1882 and is the oldest in Greece.

The museum contains artifacts from events such as the capture of Constantinople by the Ottomans to WW2, the Greek Revolution, and beyond. There are many local and foreign artists also on display at the museum.

Visiting the National Historical Museum is one of the best things to do in Athens during the winter months. The museum is closed on Mondays and an adult ticket is €3. Click here for more information.

Go to the Christmas Factory at Technopolis

Something that will be great for both children and adults visiting Athens during the holiday season is the Christmas Factory at Technopolis.

Sprawled out over 25,000 square meters, this Christmas wonderland and village has food, games, fun, and festivities for all.

It usually starts in the first week of December and runs until the first week of January. Click here for more information.

Where to stay in Athens

A beautiful city like Athens has so many incredible spots to call home for a few nights. A lot of hotels have rooftops that offer bars and views of the Acropolis, which is awesome.

These are some of our top Athens picks for places to stay in the city.

Coco-mat Athens BC (Luxury): This hotel is in the heart of Athens and offers a super luxurious experience at a pretty affordable price.

The rooms have exquisite design and a modern aesthetic… but with a view of one of the most famous sights in the world, the Acropolis.

There are so many amazing amenities at Coco-mat Athens BC that you won’t regret your choice to stay there. Click here to check rates and availability.

Attalos Hotel (Mid-range): I have stayed here previously and it was such a wonderful experience right in the heart of Athens at Monastiraki Square.

The best part about the hotel is that the rooms are insanely comfortable and the rooftop has a terrace and bar where you can have a drink and sit outside and enjoy the view of the Acropolis.

If the weather is chilly during the winter, you can still see it from the rooftop as the bar is surrounded by massive windows. Click here to check rates and availability.

Thanasis Place (Budget Hostel): This is one of the best-rated hostels in Athens and it is not hard to see why.

The place offers comfort and a more ‘luxurious’ hostel experience with a clean atmosphere and all the basic amenities one could wish for. Click here to check rates and availability.

There are many things to do in Athens in winter and hopefully, this guide will get you started and encourage you to book that trip despite the cooler temperatures. While you can venture to other places, like spending winter in Santorini or one of the islands, I think Athens rocks pretty much at any time of the year.

To be honest, the food never sucks in Athens in any season, so that itself is a good enough reason to visit! If you have more suggestions, please drop them in the comments. Thanks!