Georgia

How to Cheaply Get From Tbilisi to Yerevan by Bus in 2021

November 14 2020 by Megan Starr 28 Comments

The bus is not my preferred form of transport. Actually, it is the type of transport I avoid like the plague. But, when I travel from Tbilisi to Yerevan, I always prefer to travel by bus.

Going from Tbilisi to Yerevan by bus, or marshrutka (a minibus still prevalent in many former-Soviet states), is cheaper, faster, and allows you to witness spectacular views along the way. And if you’re traveling to Georgia on a budget, you will like this cheaper option.

While marshrutka rides can be my nemesis (people PLEASE turn off ringtones, keyboard noises, and spit out the sunflower seeds… I don’t know what it is with people needing to be so accessible at all times over this way), they almost always leave me with an interesting story later on or, if I am lucky, a new friend.

This trip takes about five to six hours once you leave Tbilisi. This is how to get from Tbilisi to Yerevan by bus… and some tips for making the journey from Georgia to Armenia.

Where to Take the Bus From Tbilisi to Yerevan

Depending on your location and preference, you will need to get to either Station Square (Sadguris Moedani or სადგურის მოედანი), Ortachala Bus Station (ორთაჭალა), or Avlabari to catch your bus from Tbilisi to Yerevan. The map above has all the locations listed.

The last time I was making this journey, my taxi driver in Tbilisi decided it would be convenient to ignore the hostel that ordered me the taxi and he took me to Didube Bus Station.

If you show up at Didube, you may find a shared taxi to Yerevan, but basically, you’re going to be finding marshrutkas to other destinations in Georgia, such as Kazbegi, not abroad.

From Station Square, the first bus leaves at 0900 and from Ortachala Bus Station, it is about the same. The buses at Station Square tend to be more efficient filling up and leaving Tbilisi for Yerevan on time. The Avlabari buses run on a schedule (listed below).

Ortachala can be a pain. I waited three hours for the marshrutka to fill up the last time I was making this journey. During those three hours, we still didn’t fill to capacity.

There were protests happening in Yerevan that day, so I am going to blame that. But usually, it takes under two hours to fill up at Ortachala. There are better things to do in Tbilisi than wait on a marshrutka to fill up, anyway.

Do You Need Travel Insurance for Armenia

Armenia is a safe country, but traveling around can be difficult and you just never know what to expect. We highly recommend making sure you have top-quality travel insurance booked before you embark on a trip to Armenia. We recommend the Norwegian company, SafetyWing, for all of your Georgia and Armenia travel needs.

>> Click here for an Armenia travel insurance quote

Best Tours in Yerevan

Yerevan is a gorgeous city no matter what season you arrive in. There are tons of hidden gems and sights… but some are slightly hidden and are best seen with a guided tour (trust us!)

There are also so many cool day trips from Yerevan that you will want to do while in the capital city and it is much easier to do them with an organized tour. Below are some of our recommended tours for Yerevan and its surrounding area.

Renting a Car in Yerevan

If you decided to come overland to Yerevan but decide you want to rent a car, it is probably a pretty good idea! Armenia is actually one of my favorite road trip destinations in the world and I think you’ll enjoy seeing it at your own pace too. It also helps to have air-conditioning available inside the car giving you comfort during the hot summer months.

>> Click here to check rental car rates for Armenia

Yerevan Card

One of the best investments for those heading to Yerevan is the Yerevan Pass or Yerevan Card. This affordable card will give you a guidebook, free metro rides, an airport transfer, free entrance to tons of museums, and discounts on tours, restaurants, cafes, and bars. We highly suggest getting one for your trip to Armenia as it is super useful and a great value.

>> Click here to get the awesome Yerevan Card

Avlabari

Many people looking to go to Yerevan take a bus from Avlabari. I actually have now taken a marshrutka from Avlabari two times. The buses run on a ‘schedule’ (I put that in quotes because this is Georgia, after all) and run every couple of hours. If the bus fills up, it leaves.

So, be prepared to wait an hour or so if going there. This is an easy option for a location to take a bus to Yerevan because it is by the metro station and centralized, unlike Ortachala. There are often really nice marshrutkas that depart from here. Mercedes Sprinters in fact. But then other times, you’ll get put in a van that looks like a soccer mom owns it.

These prices and times are current as of 2020:

The schedule from Tbilisi to Yerevan is as follows: 0900, 1100, 1300, 1500, and 1700. The price is 35 GEL.

The schedule from Yerevan to Tbilisi is as follows: 0830, 1030, 1300, 1500, and 1700. These buses leave from the left side of Kilikia Bus Station in Yerevan. The company is called ‘Comfort’. The price is 7000 AMD.

Station Square

Once at Station Square (which is also the Central Railway Station), you will need to be pointed toward the marshrutkas. There are plenty of people speaking English there and you shouldn’t have an issue. The bus from Tbilisi to Yerevan costs 35 GEL.

While these buses seem to stay on schedule a bit better, you will also go to Avlabari (ავლაბარი) in Tbilisi after you leave the Railway Station as it will pick up additional passengers there.

So, you are able to take these buses from the Central (Railway) Station or Avlabari depending on your location and desires. I prefer to take from Avlabari from the start.

Ortachala Bus Station

Ortachala is a bit more difficult to get to as it is out of the city center a bit. A taxi shouldn’t be too much getting there- expect to pay around 5 GEL for one. Once you arrive, you will see heaps of vans and shared taxis.

These are not the ones you want to take. I took a shared taxi there one time with my friend and we paid for it to just be us. I am 97% certain our taxi was making a drug run into Armenia, but that is another story for another time.

Once you arrive at Ortachala, start walking toward the actual bus station building. You will eventually see a sign that says ‘Tbilisi to Yerevan – 30 GEL’. Go down the stairs where this points and you will be in the right place. Once down there, someone will likely see that you have a lot of bags and will inevitably assume you’re heading from Tbilisi to Yerevan.

Just get pointed in the right direction and there should be a marshrutka underneath the building spelling Yerevan in Russian. Just in case, here is the spelling of Yerevan in Georgian, Russia, and Armenian:

ერევანი – Georgian

Ереван – Russian

Երեւան – Armenian

From there, you will want to pay the driver 30 GEL. Depending on other passengers already inside of the marshrutka, he may take your passport then or wait a bit.

But, give him your passport and the money and then he will go get the ticket at the office himself. Take a seat (preferably a window seat!) and enjoy the wait until you get going.

There are a few shops around that sell bread and snacks for the journey. There will also be loads of other buses heading to different destinations down here (several to Russia), so you won’t be alone.

If you haven’t changed over to Armenian drams yet and want to do so, you can also do that around there.

Update: I am being told that the price is now 35 GEL. Not confirmed, but just beware.

Arriving at the Georgia – Armenia Border

It’ll take an hour or an hour and a half to arrive at the border of Georgia and Armenia. You don’t need to remove your bags at the Georgian border. Just head inside and get stamped out. Once you arrive at the Armenian border, however, you will need to grab all of the bags you have on the bus. Head inside and wait in line to get stamped into Armenia.

My wait was no more than 15-20 minutes in this line. There was a large bus that pulled in ahead of us, but I knew that many people would end up delayed by me, so I let many of them go in front of me.

Moscow Cinema: Two days in Yerevan itinerary -1 — Moscow Cinema in Yerevan

Have You Been to Azerbaijan?

If so, no fear. I had no issues at the border regarding this. I was asked ‘Have you been to Azerbaijan?’ The answer was ‘Yes, I just came from there via Tbilisi’. He would have found the stamps anyway. He asked what I was doing in Armenia. He also asked if it was my first time there (it was not).

And then he asked for the address where I was staying. Have this ready on your phone. Once he checked it all out and everyone in line was sighing at the holdup, he stamped me into Armenia. My trip to Azerbaijan gave me no issues for entrance into Armenia.

Yerevan Opera: Two days in Yerevan itinerary -11 — Yerevan Opera Theatre

Do you Need a Visa for Armenia?

I used to need a visa for Armenia way back in the day, but Americans no longer need one. We get 180 days a year inside of the country visa-free. But do check before you go there.

These are some of the countries that do NOT need a visa for a 180 day stay in Armenia annually (based on my readership here): EU Citizens, United States, Norway, New Zealand, Australia. To see this full list, click here.

If you are from Canada, South Africa, or Mexico- you do need a visa and it can be picked up on arrival at the border. This permits you access to Armenia for 120 days maximum annually. The cost of the visa is 15,000 drams (about $30). You can also apply for this online via the Armenia e-visa portal.

The Journey Through Armenia

Unfortunately, once you get into Armenia, you will notice a major slow-down in your speed. Armenian roads are in desperate need of a facelift and there are potholes everywhere.

This hasn’t changed since my last time on these roads in 2013 and likely won’t be a priority to change any time soon as Armenia has bigger issues on their plate. But, the Armenian scenery is so outstanding that you won’t even notice after a while.

You will make a few stops here and there for food, smoke breaks, etc. We stopped fairly quickly after hitting the border and then again for a while in Stepanavan. The air was brisk that day, so the stops were really enjoyable and refreshing.

Arriving in Yerevan

You will arrive in Yerevan at the Central Bus Station, which is often referred to as the Kilikia Bus Station (Kilikia is a popular beer in Armenia). Once dropped off, you can take a taxi, bus, etc.

Taking a Taxi in Yerevan

Taking a taxi in Yerevan is fairly easy and cheap. There is a standard flat rate of 600 drams (around $1.25) for 4km or less. Anything over that becomes 100 drams per kilometer. Try to know your place of accommodation or have an offline map loaded before arrival so that you don’t end up screwed over.

Two days in Yerevan itinerary -3 — Ararat Brandy Factory and Museum in Yerevan

I was willing to pay 1000 drams without negotiating once arriving (like $2.15) because my journey ended up especially long due to filling up the marshrutka and then being stopped because of protests in the city. I didn’t have a SIM card, I didn’t have any idea of where my hostel was, etc.

If you want to download an app, you can try Taxi GG, which comes highly recommended by my local friend in Yerevan. Or Yandex taxi. Uber does not work in Armenia currently.

Travel Tips for the Tbilisi to Yerevan Bus Ride

• If you can change money before entering Armenia, it is nice to have a little bit on you for the journey. If you don’t have Armenian Drams on you, bring some USD or EUR. We stopped at a supermarket on the way that had a currency exchange.

• If you make a stop at the supermarket, there are some really malnourished, young pups hanging around that are curious and hungry. Try to see if you can grab them something inside of the shop. The shop only takes cash.

• Your Georgian SIM card will not work in Armenia. There was a Beeline in Stepanavan (and I’m sure other places in Armenia) that I ran into to see if I could get a card, but they only took cash and there was no ATM nearby. I found the ride from Tbilisi to Yerevan was done best with good music and getting lost in my own world, however. Dodging potholes and the roads would have been nauseating if I had had access to the outside world.

Going from Tbilisi to Yerevan by bus is very easy and cheap

• Bring some food and water for the trip. I didn’t bring nearly enough with me and my journey from Tbilisi to Yerevan took longer than usual as the protests in the Armenian capital slowed things down majorly. Fortunately, people constantly purchased bread at every stop we made and always shared. The bread that was purchased in Stepanavan is probably the best bread I have ever had in my life.

• If you are claustrophobic, try to secure one of the ‘single’ seats in the marshrutka. I was there early enough that I got a single seat with a lot of legroom.

• Get a good night’s sleep the night before so you can stay awake for the journey. It really is jaw-dropping!

• Have your Yerevan accommodation information with you at the Armenian border as they will likely ask. I handed over my phone with the screenshot of it and that sufficed.

Two days in Yerevan itinerary -12 — Autumn at Yerevan’s Hrazdan Gorge

• Once you arrive in Yerevan at the Kilikia Bus Station, there is no ATM on the bus station side. You will need to go under the road (there is a tunnel) and to the other side to the right. There is an ATM. It shot me out large bills and it was a pain to exchange them out, but one little market permitted me to purchase water for change back for a taxi.

• The taxi should be 600 drams into the city center. Give yourself a limit and accept it. Mine was 1000 drams at that point as I had been on the road for far too long that day!

• Wear the right clothing and shoes for the journey. Something comfortable and suited for travel is always good. Click here for some great travel clothing ideas.

Getting from Tbilisi to Yerevan is actually quite a simple process by bus or marshrutka. The train is at least double or triple the price, so if you are on a budget and have ‘been there, done that’ with Soviet-style trains before, this is definitely a feasible option. Also, the train is an overnighter, so if you want to see some scenery, it is not the most viable option.

Many people want to take the train to save on accommodation, but if you’re a budget traveler, you likely won’t be paying more than $4 a night for a hostel bed in Yerevan, so the process will actually save money if you decide to take the bus from Tbilisi to Yerevan.

If you have any additional questions or simply want to share your experiences (good and bad!), please drop them in the comments below.

Cascades: Two days in Yerevan itinerary -19 — The Cascades in Yerevan

Where to Stay in Yerevan

The Alexander (Splurge): If you’re looking for the ‘cream of the crop’ accommodation in Yerevan, look no further than The Alexander. This luxury hotel just exudes elegance and is the top place to stay in Armenia. They have beautiful rooms, a cigar bar, and much, much more. The location is also epic. Click here for rates and availability.

Daniel Boutique Hotel (Mid-range): This lovely boutique hotel offers some of the best hospitality in all of Yerevan. The location is pretty centralized and the rooms are extremely comfortable and offer all the amenities a traveler to Armenia could wish for. Click here for rates and availability.

Grand Hostel Yerevan (Budget): I have stayed at many hostels but this is definitely one of my favorites. The property is located right on the edge of the city center (but still within walking distance to all the main sights). It is a family-run establishment and the property is new and very modern, which is a rare find in Armenia. There are dorms and private rooms there with plenty of bathrooms. Click here for rates and availability.

Returning to Tbilisi From Yerevan on Bus

To get back to Tbilisi from Yerevan by bus, you will need to go to the Kilikia Bus Station in Yerevan and head to the left-hand side. There will be an area with Mercedes Sprinters and the name is called ‘Comfort’. There will be a sign. These marshrutkas leave on a schedule to Tbilisi and that schedule is as follows:

The schedule from Yerevan to Tbilisi is as follows: 0830, 1030, 1300, 1500, and 1700.

The buses will leave once they fill up, so be a bit early. The price is 7000 AMD.

If you have any tips for getting from Tbilisi to Yerevan, please leave them in the comments! Enjoy your trip!

Additional Yerevan Reading:

12 Unmissable Things to Do in Tbilisi, Georgia in Winter

October 23 2020 by Aram Vardanyan Leave a Comment

Not too many people think of Tbilisi as a winter destination but the great thing about the capital of Georgia is that it is a great place to visit any time of the year, the cold season included. This is a guide of the best things to do in Tbilisi in winter.

Things to Do in Tbilisi, Georgia in Winter

I have been to Tbilisi a lot of times over the years as someone who lives in the country right south of it, Armenia. Sometimes I go there for fun and other times I go there to take advantage of the additional flights from the Tbilisi International Airport.

Nevertheless, the city feels familiar and is definitely a place to explore in the colder months.

things to do in tbilisi during winter — Tbilisi in winter guide

This is a guide to what to do in Tbilisi during winter. It will contain cultural sights, cafes, and some general travel tips for Tbilisi.

This is a guide more geared towards the first-time traveler to Tbilisi, so if you have any hip and lesser-known places you think travelers to Tbilisi should visit, please drop them in the comments. Thanks!

How to Get to Tbilisi

There are many ways to get to Tbilisi. For me, I manage to get from Yerevan to Tbilisi on board a marshrutka. You can also take the train there from the Yerevan Railway Station.

If you’re coming from the Azeri capital of Baku, you can take a train or marshrutka, although the train is the most comfortable way according to Megan.

You can also fly to Tbilisi International Airport. There are so many flights that service Georgia and you can find which one suits you best.

Flight prices are not as flat as the ones coming to and from Yerevan, so do try to book in advance as Georgia is becoming such a hot tourist destination.

Click here to see our guide on how to get from Yerevan to Tbilisi by bus if that is the direction you’re heading.

Things to do in Tbilisi in Winter-8 — Lobio will keep you warm during those Tbilisi winters

Do You Need Travel Insurance for Georgia?

Absolutely. We would never cross into Georgia without a travel insurance policy. First of all, Georgia drivers are careless and reckless. We have met several people who have been involved in accidents in Georgia as a result. Never, ever go to Tbilisi uninsured.

We recommend SafetyWing, a Norwegian company, for all of your travel insurance needs. They cover Georgia and their policies are far more affordable than many other companies on the market.

>> Click here for a Georgia travel insurance quote

Renting a Car in Tbilisi

It can be a bit challenging to navigate your way around Tbilisi, to be honest. While we suggest cruising the city on foot if feasible, renting a car there may be your best option if you leave the city and take day trips.

Georgian drivers are a bit careless (okay, a lot careless), so be very careful on the roads and take it slow. You probably will have better luck driving yourself than hopping in a marshrutka with a Georgian driver anyway.

>> Click here to check rental car rates for Tbilisi

Best Tours of Georgia

Tbilisi is such an interesting city to discover and while many may shun coming during winter, we personally think that is when it shines because there is nothing better than finding a cozy, Georgian cafe and sipping on some wine.

However, if you’re looking to explore more of the city outside of cafes, these organized tours will be the right way to go for you.

What to Pack for Tbilisi in Winter

Tbilisi can get a bit cold in winter but it is mild compared to other cities with a wintry reputation.

However, you will still want to bring the following items with you… some clothing and just some other things we think you should tote along for the trip:

Good walking boots: It doesn’t always snow in Tbilisi in winter but you will want good, solid boots that you can walk around in and that offer good grip in case things do get snowy or icy. Megan swears by her vegan Dr. Martens when she travels so we can definitely recommend them. For guys, these are similar to the pair I own and travel with.
Georgia guidebook: While blogs are awesome, there is just something about having a tangible guidebook in your hands when traveling. For Georgia and the Caucasus, we recommend Lonely Planet’s guidebook. It has great tips and while Georgia has changed a lot since it was published a few years back, the practical information has pretty much remained the same.
Mobile power bank: This is a must! As temperatures drop, so do phone batteries. You can shop our mobile power bank recommendation here.
A warm beanie (Megan loves Scandinavia fashion and her top picks come from Danish brands Libertine-Libertine and Samsøe & Samsøe)

What to Do in Tbilisi During Winter

Visit the Rezo Gabriadze Marionette Theater

Located near the Tbilisi Old Town is the Rezo Gabriadze Marionette Theater, or better known to tourists as the ‘puppet theater’.

The building has a bizarre construction and it is one of the most recognizable structures in the city. Thre is a steel beam that holds the tower upright, giving it its odd shape.

Rezo Gabriadze Theater opened in 1981 and today only has about 80 seats inside for guests, making it an exclusive place that has become an integral part of Tbilisi’s cultural scene.

Rezo Gabriadze was born in Kutaisi and worked throughout his life as a theater and film director, writer, graphic artist, painter, and playwright. He has over 35 screenplays and many have become Soviet classics.

The puppet theater is a great place to visit any time of the year but it offers a respite from bad weather during a harsh Tbilisi winter’s day.

But, fortunately, Tbilisi winters are pretty inconsistent and there are some days where you can even sit outside and enjoy a coffee or tea and it will feel like spring arrived early.

You can find the Rezo Gabriadze Marionette Theater at 13 Ioane Shavteli St in Tbilisi.

Take a Day trip to Mtskheta

It is fun staying in the city, but Tbilisi is surrounded by some incredible nature and you must venture out at least once.

If you’re not capable of getting far north (due to the snow and time constraints) to places like Stepantsminda, you will find comfort in knowing that you can still take a quick trip to Mtskheta and places nearby Tbilisi.

Located about 20 kilometers away from Tbilisi, Mtskheta is one of the oldest cities in Georgia as it was founded in the 5th century BC. It is located at the crossroads of the Mtkvari and Aragvi Rivers.

The city’s historical monuments became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1994 because the city was recognized as the birthplace of Christianity in Georgia.

things to do in tbilisi in winter — Souvenir shopping in Mtskheta is fantastic

There is a sensational view from the opposite side of the city at Jvari Monastery of Mtskheta on a hill to the city.

Mtskheta is also a great place to do some souvenir shopping from as there are several places where you can get authentic Georgian souvenirs in an easier fashion than in the hustle and bustle of Tbilisi.

Make New Friends at Fabrika Tbilisi

Fabrika is part hostel, part coworking area, part everything more. This cultural center has become one of my highlights of going to Tbilisi simply for the fact that it is an easy place to stay, socialize, and eat all at the same time.

I know Megan often flies into Tbilisi to come to Yerevan and stays at Fabrika and doesn’t leave the grounds throughout her entire stay.

Things to do in Tbilisi in Winter-10 — The bar area at Fabrika

The coolest thing about Fabrika is that you can hang out there for no charge. They have a bar, restaurant, and out in the back courtyard, there is an area to get different kinds of food from really good ramen at Shio Ramen to a falafel burger at Pipes Burger Joint.

There is something for everyone at Fabrika and I know you will enjoy it as much as I do.

You can read more about Fabrika and its history and offerings here.

Things to do in Tbilisi in Winter-13 — Ramen at Shio Ramen at Fabrika

Rejuvenate at the Tbilisi Sulphur Baths

Located at the beginning of the Tbilisi Old Town, or Abanotubani, the Sulphur Baths are a historical place in the Georgian capital that operates the entire year and is especially relaxing during the winter.

They were built approximately in the 13th-century and many famous people, such as Alexander Pushkin, have visited. He made his way there in 1829.

Things to do in Tbilisi in Winter-1 — You will find the baths in this area of Tbilisi

There are seven bathhouses currently there. I first went there in 2014 when I traveled there with my friend Amos and we found the sulfur to be really great for your skin and health.

Despite the bath’s ancient history, they are really modern and cool on the inside. They are a must-visit place in Tbilisi, in my opinion.

Visit the Narikala Fortress in Tbilisi

Established in the 4th-century, the Narikala Fortress is an iconic and historical symbol of Tbilisi. It has had Persians, Mongols, and Arabs influence it over the many centuries it has stood as a protective forth.

Georgian King David expanded and rebuilt parts of it in the 11th century. From near the fortress, you can get a killer, panoramic view over Tbilisi.

In order to get to Narikala Fortress, you can walk up there or take the cable cars from the city. The cable cars are a newer addition to Tbilisi having been built merely 7 years ago. They run from the left bank at Rike Park up to Narikala.

Eat Satsivi in Tbilisi

A dish that constantly makes the rounds during the winter season in Tbilisi and Georgia is satsivi. Satsivi is a dish that contains turkey or chicken in a walnut sauce.

It is so flavorful and there are not many dishes that are comparable to this, so you’re just going to have to try it for yourself.

You can get an okay version of it at the famous Georgian chain, Machakhela. Or, you can check on the restaurant menus that are posted outside of establishments to see if they have satsivi on there to try it somewhere different. Either way, it is a must-try for those spending their winter in Tbilisi.

Visit the Holy Trinity Cathedral of Tbilisi

It took builders almost ten years to build the Holy Trinity Cathedral of Tbilisi, the city’s biggest church. Due to its hilly location, you can see it from so many different parts of the city and it has become one of the main symbols of Tbilisi throughout the years.

The church was built to commemorate and mark 1,500 years of the Georgian Orthodox Church. In order to get there, you can walk as Megan told me she did, or you can take a taxi or public transportation as I did.

It is not that far of a walk if you’re on the side of the river opposite the Old Town, but it is a large incline.

Almost 10 years took to build Holy Trinity Cathedral the biggest church in Tbilisi. The church is located really high point in the city, that’s why it really visible from different parts of the city.

When you’re there, be sure to stop by Lagidze and have a famous Georgian ‘lemonade’.

Ring in the New Year in Tbilisi

New Year’s in the Caucasus is a blast and Tbilisi, Georgia is no exception. People are having a blast right on the streets and businesses stay open all night.

There are lights dousing every building and music is blaring on every corner. You can stroll through the Old Town and celebrate with other travelers or head outside of the area to see what the locals are up to. Pop into a wine bar and maybe you’ll even score a free drink.

Search for Street Art in Tbilisi

There are many places where you can find street art in Tbilisi and it is a blast to do it in winter when the temperatures hit a respectable level. The best thing about hunting for street art in Tbilisi is that a lot of it is kind of hidden or in secret corners.

There are buildings like Fabrika where it is very in your face, but a lot of the time, you will stumble upon street art in Tbilisi when you least expect it.

Try Craft Beer in Tbilisi

Another popular thing to do during the winter in Tbilisi is to drink. And while wine is often the beverage of choice (don’t worry… we will be suggesting that later in this guide), there is an up-and-coming craft beer scene that is happening in Tbilisi.

While it may not be as robust as the beer scene elsewhere, it is getting there and the beer is good.

Things to do in Tbilisi in Winter-11 — Craft beer in Tbilisi

I highly suggest heading to Black Dog Bar in Tbilisi for a delicious craft beer. Another highly recommended place is 9 mta. Maybe one day Megan and I will get around to writing a craft beer guide to Tbilisi. We will see.

Go to the Art Museum of Georgia

Also known as the Shalva Amiranashvili Museum of Fine Arts, the Art Museum of Georgia is a fantastic place to escape from the winter temperatures and head inside to educate yourself more on the art and history in Georgia.

Established in 2004, this museum presents a lot of authentic content and pieces that will really open up someone’s eyes to the history of art in Tbilisi and beyond.

The museum has been a part of Tbilisi since 1920. You can find the Art Museum of Georgia at 2/4 Aleksandr Pushkin St in Tbilisi.

Extend Your Trip and Go to Yerevan

If you have more than a couple of days in Tbilisi, you may want to consider booking a trip to beautiful Armenia and visiting Yerevan.

The Armenian capital has that hospitable Caucasian vibe but couldn’t be more different to Tbilisi. Yerevan is a more intimate place and the city is a bit quieter yet with a lot of things going on in the colder months.

During winter in Yerevan, you will experience snow (if you’re lucky… Yerevan tends to be colder than Tbilisi), fresh and delicious food like ghapama and plov, and ski resorts located a short drive from the capital city.

You will also get to see different architecture as Yerevan uses a pink, volcanic stone called ‘tuff’ and the city glows during certain times of the day when the light hits the buildings just right.

If you have a lot of days in Tbilisi, do considering a couple of days south of the border in Armenia. There are many fantastic places to visit in Armenia… so if Yerevan isn’t your jam, you will certainly find another place that is.

Click here to see how to spend a weekend in Yerevan. And click here to see a list of the best restaurants in Yerevan.

Drink Your Body Weight in Georgian Wine

It would be a total miss for me to get to the end of a guide about what to do in Tbilisi in winter and never mention that it is imperative that you drink a lot of Georgian wine. If you drink, that is.

Georgian wine goes back to ancient times and some of the oldest wineries in the world can be found in Georgia. The red wines are hearty and Megan loves a good Saperavi and will frequently mention it.

You can actually find wine virtually anywhere in Tbilisi. Sometimes, you will even see bottles sitting out on tables along the streets for tourists to try a sip of it in an effort to lure new patrons in.

I like Kote Afxazi Street as there are many bars on it with great wine offerings. Either way, wine is a crucial and vital part of Georgian culture and you should definitely have a glass (or many more) when you’re in Tbilisi.

Things to do in Tbilisi in Winter-12 — Never leave Georgia without eating khinkali. Never.

Where to Stay in Tbilisi

One of the most important things you need to do in order to enjoy Tbilisi to the fullest is to ensure you have a great place and location to stay. There are various parts of the city that are desirable to stay at… and these places below are all highly recommended by us:

Apartment Old Gallery (Splurge): This apartment is top-quality and I stayed there, I’d likely never move out. It is modern, has a great location, and is close to heaps of good restaurants. Click here to check rates and availability.

Apartment Marina (Mid-range): This apartment is perfect for the person who doesn’t want to splurge but still have nice and comfortable accommodation. It has a 24-reception desk and is centralized in the city. The interior is modern and cozy. Click here to check rates and availability.

Envoy Hostel (Budget): Megan stayed at Envoy years ago and has eagerly recommended it to travelers ever since. The hostel has locations also in Yerevan and Cambodia and they arrange so many day trips that that is reason enough to stay there. It also has an epic, Old Town location and a terrace that gives you a killer view of the city. Click here to check rates and availability.

There are so many things to do in Tbilisi in winter. This guide will hopefully encourage you to book that trip and enjoy the city as much as I do and like other travelers do.

Tbilisi Taxi Tips: Taking a Taxi in Tbilisi with 2 Useful Apps

October 2 2020 by Megan Starr Leave a Comment

First-time visitors to Tbilisi will be surprised at how easy and affordable it is to take a taxi there. This is a guide to taking a taxi in Tbilisi that includes two useful apps and how to download and use them.

If you have any questions regarding how to order a Tbilisi taxi, please send us a message or leave a comment. Thanks!

Tbilisi Taxi Tips: Taking a Taxi in Tbilisi with 2 Useful Apps

I have been taking taxis in Tbilisi for almost 8 years now. When I first started using taxis to get around the city and to and from bus stations there, it was a bit of a challenge. I would have to have my hostel order one and even then, the prices often added a tourist tax.

Fortunately, using Tbilisi taxis has gotten easier with apps. While many apps have popped up over the years, the two main Georgia taxi apps being used currently are Bolt and Yandex.

This guide gives information on how to use both apps and to download them to your phone.

We do want to mention that we don’t recommend using a taxi to get around Tbilisi if you’re heading from areas where the metro works or where you’re comfortable using public transportation.

Tbilisi Taxi Tips: Taking a Taxi in Tbilisi with 2 Useful Apps

We do, however, recommend using in situations where you have luggage or are unfamiliar with the area. We also recommend using if you’re heading to Ortochala Bus Station or somewhere far from the city center (including the airport).

In order to use these taxi apps in Georgia, you will need a Georgian SIM card. You can pick up one at the airport or in the city after you arrive.

Of course, you can use wifi networks to order the taxi but you won’t have the ability to access the app once in the car or away from the network.

If you have any additional suggestions about taking a taxi in Tbilisi, please leave us a comment or shoot us a message. We will continue to update this guide as the taxi situation and apps change over time.

Tips for Taking a Taxi in Tbilisi

There are a few things to know about taking a taxi in Tbilisi before you do it. Here are a few tips that will help you plan your trip:

⇒ Taxi drivers sometimes smoke: They are not supposed to smoke. Or at least I assume Bolt and Yandex don’t give them permission to smoke as they drive passengers around, but they sometimes will.

If they don’t smoke in the car with you in it, it will still perhaps smell like smoke. Welcome to the Caucasus.

⇒ Download the app before you arrive if you can: Many apps will confirm your identity with a phone number and if you arrive in a place without a SIM card, you will not easily be able to confirm.

On the other hand, drivers in the Caucasus love calling you once they confirm your ride, so if you have the wrong number, it spells trouble. I’d download and then later change the number once you get a SIM card.

⇒ Taxi drivers sometimes talk on phones when driving: Um… I am not okay with this at all but I have had it happen numerous times in Georgia. Usually, I just report it in the app after but I have asked them to stop here and there and they did.

⇒ Many foreign credit cards don’t work on the taxi apps: I have never plugged in my credit card with the new Bolt app (I used it with the old Taxify app with no issues) but I do know that my American credit card never works with Yandex taxi. I would be sure to keep cash on you for your journey.

⇒ Always have small denominations: If you hand a taxi driver a lot of Lari, they may be puzzled about what to do with it.

If you hand your taxi driver even a small amount of Lari over what your taxi ride costs, they may still be puzzled. Just have a lot of change or small denominations on you at all times if you’re using a taxi in Tbilisi or Georgia.

In addition, if your taxi ride is the equivalent of about $1 and you hand them the equivalent of $2 and they don’t have change, report them after the ride.

I have had many instances in the Caucasus where taxi drivers will suddenly not have small change once they realize I am a foreigner.

⇒ Taxis are affordable in Georgia: Taking a taxi in Georgia is an affordable way to get around. While I still recommend walking or taking the Tbilisi metro, taxis are a viable option if you’re going anywhere a bit further.

⇒ Georgian drivers are friendly and may chat: Georgians are exceptionally friendly and hospitable people and may want to strike up a conversation- especially if they know some English! While Georgian driving skills are mad, their hospitality is so welcoming that it (almost) makes up for it!

Tbilisi Taxi Apps

Bolt

Formerly Taxify, Bolt is the preferred taxi app in Tbilisi these days. Prices are usually pretty on par with Yandex but may be escalated if all drivers are busy.

One great thing about Bolt is that the app takes Apple Pay in addition to cash and credit card. The Estonian founded app is also able to be used in various countries (like Armenia and Azerbaijan).

how to take a taxi in Tbilisi with 2 apps (bolt and yandex) — Taking a taxi in Tbilisi with Bolt

Whenever I ask my local friends what their taxi app of choice is in Tbilisi, they all chime in with a resounding ‘Bolt’. For me, if the locals like it, it is good enough for me to use it!

Click here to download on iOS | Click here to download for Android

Yandex Taxi

Another app you can use in Tbilisi is Yandex Taxi. The Russian-owned app may not be as popular with locals but I like using it when I am traveling because it is already conveniently on my phone and offers fair rates for taxis.

Some will argue it, but I almost always find Yandex to be the cheapest taxi app in Tbilisi. Sometimes, I think the price is lower because there is an abundance of drivers on hand (maybe they have more or maybe others are just using Bolt!)

It is never that much cheaper but just a little. But, standards are not always as high as some smaller companies (older cars, etc).

However, I have used Yandex Taxi’s customer service several times over the years in various countries and have had nothing but positive experiences when reporting something or asking questions.

I must admit that I have issues using my card with Yandex everywhere I go, however. While Apple Pay is available on the app, it doesn’t always work for me in the region either. So, I only use Yandex when I have cash in small denominations.

Click here to download on iOS | Click here to download for Android

There are definitely other ways to get around Tbilisi if you’re not keen to spend on a taxi or want a more environmentally-friendly way to get around.

As mentioned above, we only recommend a taxi when you have exhausted the other options or are looking purely for convenience. We hope that this Tbilisi taxi guide has helped you figure out the best way to take a taxi in the Georgian capital city.

If you have any other suggestions or are a new app that wants us to try your services, please get in touch via email or a comment. Thanks!

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How to Cheaply Get From Tbilisi to Batumi (5 Best Options)

October 2 2020 by Aram Vardanyan Leave a Comment

One of the most popular places to visit in Georgia is Batumi and it is truly one of the best additions to your itinerary when visiting the country in the Caucasus. This post details 5 affordable ways to get from Tbilisi to Batumi (and back from Batumi to Tbilisi).

We are not listing organized tours from one city to the other as it more-or-less requires a multi-day tour. We are also not including flights as one of the cheaper options but we list a little info on how to fly from one city to another.

Please keep in mind flying is not an environmentally-friendly option between these two Georgian cities. If you have additional questions for how to get to Batumi from Tbilisi, please leave a comment or send us a message!

BATUMI QUICK REFERENCE

Short on time? You can see our top travel recommendations for Batumi right here:

Where to stay in Batumi:

Luxury: Tapis Rouge VIP Boutique Hotel 5* Batumi
Mid-range: Old Batumi Villa
Budget: M55 Hostel

Top-rated Batumi day tours and experiences:

City Highlights & Batumi Boulevard Walking Tour (3 hours)
Adjara: Batumi Botanical Garden & Mtirala National Park (8 hours)
Cycling And Kayaking in Kolkheti National Park from Batumi (6 hours)
Gonio Castle and Adjarian Highland Tour from Batumi (6 hours)
Day trip to Batumi from Kutaisi (12 hours)

Need insurance for Georgia? Be sure to check Georgia travel insurance rates and coverage with our recommended provider, SafetyWing.

Renting a car in Georgia? You can get great options and the best rates here with Rentalcars.com.

3 Essential Things to Pack for Georgia: Plug adapter (if coming from the US or a country that does not use a European plug), Georgia phrasebook and dictionary, and a Caucasus Lonely Planet guidebook (also includes Armenia and Azerbaijan).

How to Get From Tbilisi to Batumi

This post is about how to get to Batumi from Tbilisi affordably and comfortably. It will also cover which transportation is ideal depending on your needs as a traveler.

Batumi is located approximately 380 kilometers from the Georgian capital city of Tbilisi. This means that it is best done as a multi-day trip and not as a day trip.

If you’re looking for how to get back to Tbilisi from Batumi, please see our notes at the bottom of this post detailing that.

How to Cheaply Get From Tbilisi to Batumi (5 Best Options) — How to Get From Tbilisi to Batumi

Train to Batumi

One of the most common types of transportation to Batumi is the train. This is the fastest option for getting to Batumi and takes only 5 hours compared to the other forms of transportation… and it is one of the more comfortable forms.

Megan has taken the train in Georgia several times to various places and it is her preferred way to get around.

The only problem with taking the train in Georgia is that there are only a few trains departing daily from Tbilisi (about four regular departures).

The current Tbilisi to Batumi train schedule and daily departures is as follows:

Departs Tbilisi	6:30 AM	Arrives Batumi	11:45 AM
Departs Tbilisi	8:00 AM	Arrives Batumi	1:00 PM
Departs Tbilisi	10:30 AM	Arrives Batumi	3:30 PM
Departs Tbilisi	5:35 PM	Arrives Batumi	10:30 PM

For additional information (and in-depth procedures), please visit Georgian Railways website… but do note that you will need to create an account to follow up on the schedule and timetable.

Tbilisi – Batumi Train Ticket Prices (and How to Buy)

There are two travel classes on the Tbilisi-Batumi train and the prices vary accordingly.

1st Class train ticket	61 GEL ($19)
2nd Class train ticket	25 GEL ($7.75)

You can purchase tickets online from this website after creating an account, but to be honest, many people have had issues doing so. If you are presented with issues, you can purchase tickets from the train station in purchase the day prior to your trip.

Tickets appear and are for sale 40 days prior to the departure. Summer seasons may book up quickly, so try to purchase in advance or be flexible with your travel plans.

Insider tip: It is definitely the safer option to purchase the tickets in person if time allows. If the system takes your credit card and allows you to purchase beforehand, great, but it seems as though some cards and banks simply don’t work. I am able to purchase tickets on the website with no issues but Megan has always struggled in the Caucasus purchasing train tickets in advance (in all countries).

Train Departures

The Tbilisi-Batumi trains depart from the Tbilisi Central Railway Station (100 meters away from Station Square Metro Station). This is also where the trains from Tbilisi to Yerevan and Baku depart from.

Bus to Batumi from Tbilisi

Another affordable option for getting to Batumi from Tbilisi is to take a minibus (marshrutka) or a regular bus. The ride takes about 6 hours.

We break down the two options for getting to Batumi by bus below.

Minibus (Marshrutka) to Batumi

Minibuses depart from the domestic Tbilisi bus station ‘Didube’. To get there, you can use public transportation but we recommend just taking a taxi in Tbilisi from a taxi app as it is easier.

From Didube, you can also find taxis to Kazbegi, Kutaisi, and Borjomi.

Minibus to Batumi

25 GEL ($7.75)

Minibuses are not always the most comfortable option, however. They will often ram them full of people and they can make many stops along the way to pick up new passengers. They also don’t always run on a set schedule and leave once filled to capacity.

If you’re stuck in an awkward place in the minibus, it can make for a cumbersome journey. In addition, not all marshrutkas are created equal. Some are nice, some are not.

Bus to Batumi

The best option for getting to Batumi without taking a train, in our opinion, is to take a scheduled bus there. The buses are modern and spacious and you won’t have random stops along the way to pick up people on the side of a street.

The company that operates the Tbilisi-Batumi route currently is called Metro Georgia and they are known for providing excellent service throughout their routes.

While the prices may be a bit steeper, you will be granted amenities such as a TV, Wifi, air-conditioning, and a comfortable seat for your journey to Batumi.

The bus will make a few scheduled stops along the way to allow travelers to stretch their legs, grab some food, and get refreshed.

Metro Georgia Bus Schedule (Tbilisi-Batumi)

The Metro Georgia buses leave daily at the following times to Batumi:

2:00 AM

9:00 AM

10:30 AM

12:00 PM

3:00 PM

11:59 PM

In addition to the schedule above, there is an added route on Fridays with a departure of 9:30 AM from Tbilisi.

All Metro Georgia buses to Batumi leave from the Ortochala Bus Station at Gulia Str. N1 in Tbilisi.

Insider tip: The Ortochala Bus Station is a bit outside of the city and can feel a bit dodgy if you’re visiting for the first time. Be sure to find your bus and not be blindly escorted to a random bus somewhere else. The best way to reach Ortochala is by taking a taxi.

Batumi Bus Ticket Prices with Metro Georgia (and How to Buy)

Obtaining a ticket for your Batumi trip is pretty easy through the Metro Georgia website or you can purchase from their office or selling point locations in Tbilisi that are as follows:

Gulia Street N1 (Ortochala Bus Station)
Chavchavadze Street 16
Crossing of Akhmeteli and Aghmashenebeli Streets
Berika International at Mtskheta Street 2
Discovery at Old Tbilisi Avenue 10

The ticket price with Metro Georgia from Tbilisi to Batumi is currently 30 GEL ($9.35).

Taking a Taxi to Batumi

Taking a taxi is always an option but it will definitely not be the most affordable option, naturally. But, it adds privacy and if you have the right amount of people, it is definitely a viable option. It will also allow for stops at your will along the way.

A taxi from Tbilisi to Batumi will cost approximately anywhere from 300-350 GEL ($94-$110).

Renting a Car in Georgia

Alternatively, another option for getting to Batumi is by rental car. If you choose to hire a car in Georgia, you will have the luxury to enjoy stops along the way and there are some nice rest stops and places to eat throughout.

The drive from Tbilisi to Batumi will take about 6 hours and you can make some cool stops along the way such as Gori, Kutaisi, or Mtskheta (and more).

>> Click here to check rental car prices in Georgia

Insider tip: Please do consider that Georgia driving standards are not up to par with other countries. If you are a timid driver or just don’t feel comfortable driving outside of your home country, please refrain from renting a car in Georgia.

Flights to Batumi

Not the most practical or eco-friendly way to get to Batumi, in our opinion… but it is still an option and maybe a better option during the winter if you’re rushed.

We advise traveling by train… by the time you go through all airport procedures and checkpoints, it truly will be able the same amount of time as taking the train from Tbilisi to Batumi.

How to Get From Batumi to Tbilisi

Are you already in Batumi and want to find out how to get back to Tbilisi? Here are our options for how to return. It includes train and bus options for visitors.

Train to Tbilisi

If you have already enjoyed your Batumi trip and want to get back to Tbilisi, you will find the train back an easy and affordable option. It is also the fastest (5 hours). Here is the schedule back to Tbilisi from Batumi:

Departs Batumi	7:55 AM	Arrives Tbilisi	12:50 PM
Departs Batumi	2:20 PM	Arrives Tbilisi	7:24 PM
Departs Batumi	5:10 PM	Arrives Tbilisi	10:05 PM
Departs Batumi	6:00 PM	Arrives Tbilisi	10:57 PM

As noted above, the ticket prices for the Batumi-Tbilisi train route are as follows:

1st Class train ticket	61 GEL ($19)
2nd Class train ticket	25 GEL ($7.75)

Bus to Tbilisi

Another great option for returning to Tbilisi from Batumi is to that the Metro Georgia buses. We detailed more specifics regarding them above (they have air-conditioning and wifi!).

Metro Georgia Bus Schedule (Tbilisi-Batumi)

The Metro Georgia buses leave daily at the following times to Tbilisi:

1:00 AM

2:00 AM

9:00 AM

12:00 AM

3:00 PM

8:00 PM

11:59 PM

In addition to the schedule above, there is an added route on Sundays with a departure of 8:00 PM from Batumi.

All Metro Georgia buses to Batumi leave from the Batumi (new) bus station at Gogoli Street N1 in Batumi.

Batumi Bus Ticket Prices with Metro Georgia (and How to Buy)

Obtaining a ticket for your Tbilisi trip is pretty easy through the Metro Georgia website or you can purchase from their office or selling point locations in Batumi that are as follows:

Tbel Abuseridze Street 65
Chavchavadze Street 48
Geo Tour at Gorgiladze Street 24
Argo Tour at Gorgiladze Street 48

The ticket price with Metro Georgia from Batumi to Tbilisi is currently 30 GEL ($9.35).

Organized Tours in Batumi

Once you’re in Batumi, we definitely recommend making the most of your stay there! One of the best ways to do this is by taking a Batumi tour! Here are a few recommended tours we suggest to help you maximize your time in the seaside city:

City Highlights & Batumi Boulevard Walking Tour (3 hours)
Adjara: Batumi Botanical Garden & Mtirala National Park (8 hours)
Cycling And Kayaking in Kolkheti National Park from Batumi (6 hours)
Gonio Castle and Adjarian Highland Tour from Batumi (6 hours)
Day trip to Batumi from Kutaisi (12 hours)

Where to Stay in Batumi

There are several places to stay in Batumi for those visiting. Here are three great options for all budgets:

Luxury: Tapis Rouge VIP Boutique Hotel 5* Batumi
Mid-range: Old Batumi Villa
Budget: M55 Hostel

If you’re heading the other way around from Batumi to Tbilisi, here are some of our Tbilisi recommendations for accommodation:

Luxury: Silver 34 Boutique Hotel
Mid-range: Tiflis Family House
Budget: City Hostel

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25 Incredible Places to Visit in Georgia (the Country)

May 27 2020 by Megan Starr Leave a Comment

One of the travel hotspots currently is the fantastic country of Georgia in the Caucasus. A perk of traveling there is that the entire country is picturesque and has something to offer. This is a guide of the best places to visit in Georgia (country), hand-picked by other travel bloggers and myself.

This list is in random order and there are certain places that fit into other regions noted on the list. We know- but we thought some of the places needed their own section even if they are part of another region (ie: Sighnaghi in Kakheti).

We are also aware that depending on where you’re from, you may not consider all of these places to be in Georgia. This post is not meant to be political. So, please just take it for what it’s worth… and visit Georgia!

Places to Visit in Georgia

My first trip to Georgia was far before tourism really picked up there (nearly a decade ago). One thing that has stayed true about the Caucasian country is that it has so much to offer visitors and is truly one of the best travel destinations.

Now that I live in the Caucasus, I tend to visit the same places over and over in the region. So, I recruited some help from other bloggers to talk about all the awesome places in Georgia that you can visit!

If we left anywhere off of this list and it deserves to be here, please drop it in the comments! Thanks so much.

Kazbegi

Editor’s Choice

Kazbegi is a must-visit place if you find yourself in Georgia. Located in the high Caucasus mountains, it offers some of the most beautiful scenery in the whole country. Any lover of nature would be crazy not to go and make a trip there!

It has incredible hiking and is actually named after the largest mountain called Mount Kazbeg. There are also walking trails accessible for someone that wants to take it a bit easier, or even horseback riding if you’re feeling extra adventurous.

An absolute must, though, is visiting the famous Gergeti Trinity Church. There is nothing like seeing it in person, with the grand Mount Kazbeg directly in front of it.

It is the perfect place to truly unwind. There is a sense of peace that comes from feeling isolated and being in a village. It is about a 3-hour drive from Tbilisi and takes you along the Georgian Military Highway, which is one of the most beautiful roads in the country (or frightening in my case!).

Stepantsminda is the main town in the region and has everything you could need. That is where you will find accommodation, restaurants, bars, supermarkets, etc. Click here to read our experiences visiting Kazbegi.

Akhaltsikhe

Recommended by Diana at Czech Souls

Akhaltsikhe, the capital of Samtskhe-Javakheti is mostly known as an entry point to Vardzia. Many people just rush through, but the city and especially its renowned sight – Rabati Fortress – shouldn’t be overlooked.

This fortress resembles a castle and has a very rich history that is not only Georgian but also Ottoman. It has been renovated in the past decade and it feels like an oasis with its intact and well-kept gardens.

We have visited it early in the morning and that’s what I’d suggest to anyone as we had the whole fortress for ourselves. It is well worth it to climb some of the towers as the view is no less beautiful than the fortress itself.

Should you stay in Akhaltsikhe overnight, get a room with a view of Rabati because it is beautifully lit at night. Otherwise, Akhaltsikhe has a great connection with all major Georgian cities and Armenia by marshrutkas.

It can also serve as a perfect base for your trips around the south of Georgia to both well-known destinations such as Borjomi and Bakuriani and lesser-known ones such as Tmogvi, Khertvitsi, or Mtsvane.

Tbilisi

Editor’s Choice

Tbilisi has everything you would want in a city; unique and beautiful architecture, absolutely delicious food, a very hip crowd, but also a calmer and quieter old town. It was founded in 458 and was perfectly positioned to be the route between western and eastern Transcaucasia.

It was captured by The Turks on several occasions and later burned down by the Persians and in 1921 made the capital of Georgia. Luckily, what you see now is an incredibly unique place to visit.

Some fun things to do around the city are going on a ride on the funicular and exploring that area and if the weather is nice you can stroll around the botanical garden, visit the Dry Bridge Market, or take a walking tour where you can see some of the most important sights.

Some delicious places you can eat are Lolita, Salobie Bia, and for the most delicious Adjarian khachapuri, head to Retro. Tbilisi is known for its nightlife, some of the more popular clubs are Bassiani and KHIDI. They are usually only open on the weekends and Bassiani requires registration.

Tbilisi is not only a fantastic summer destination but it also shines during the winter. Check out all the things to do in Tbilisi in winter here.

Vardzia

Recommended by Matěj at Czech the World

Vardzia is a huge cave monastery town in southern Georgia that was constructed in the second half of the 12th century during the golden age of Tamar the Great and Rustaveli.

It was abandoned after the Ottoman takeover in the 16th century. Nowadays, it’s part of a state heritage reserve and has been submitted for future inscription on the UNESCO World Heritage List.

It’s around 500 m long and 19 tiers high. There are more than 400 rooms including 12 chapels, 25 wine cellars, church, bakery, and many other interesting things.

It’s pretty far from all the other popular attractions and the journey there is quite long, however, it’s totally worth it. One can spend several hours wandering through dozens of different caves and tunnels.

The opening hours are every day except Mondays from 1000 to 1900. The last visitors are allowed in at 1800. If you are a student, don’t forget to bring your student card because they have a huge discount for the entrance.

Visiting Vardzia is definitely one of the most amazing things to do in Georgia.

Adjara Region

Recommended by Amy at The Wayfarer’s Book

The mountains of Svaneti and Tusheti often get all the love from tourists in Georgia, but the mountains in Adjara are a real delight.

The region itself is well-known because of Batumi (see below) and its stretch of beaches, but if you dig a little further inland you’ll reach the Lesser Caucasus mountains.

One of the most adventurous things to do in Adjara is riding the Khulo cable car. This small red vessel soars 350 meters over a valley to connect the villages of Khulo and Tago — where blissfully the only thing to do is hang out in a local’s garden and order some coffee.

Traveling in Adjara is definitely for the bold! While there is plenty of hiking you can do, they are often more than just day trips.

However, there are loads of guesthouses and the people are incredibly friendly. The tourism office at Khulo was very helpful in giving me ideas of what else to do in the area. If you’re looking for off-the-beaten-track Georgia, this is definitely it!

Batumi

Editor’s Choice

Batumi is definitely most popular because it is located on the coast of the Black Sea and it is aptly known as Georgia’s Black Sea city. For the most part, the tourists are there to enjoy laying out in the sun but there are many other wonderful things to do.

Another great aspect of the city is its eccentric architecture. The flashy buildings are what allows it to be compared to Las Vegas often.

Batumi is part of the republic of Adjar where 30%o of the population is Muslim. The last remaining mosque in the city is the Orta Jame, which is quite small but an interesting place to visit.

Biking around the city is also highly recommended as there is nothing like feeling that freedom in such a beautiful place!

If you like hiking, the botanical garden is absolutely perfect; it is a steep walk, but once you reach the top the view of the Black Sea is superb!

Some of the best spots to eat are Retro, for the Adjarian khachapuri, Privet iz Batuma, BatuMarani for some Georgian dishes, and Cafe Adjar for some Adjarian specialties.

There are many options for getting to Batumi from Tbilisi and you can see them in our previously linked guide.

Tusheti (Omalo)

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Taking a drive up to Omalo and the region of Tusheti is no small feat. Every year people die on this treacherous road that is only open from May to October due to bad weather and road conditions.

But don’t let that put you off. Georgia’s most remote region will blow you away with its incredible scenery and historic villages.

Arriving in the main village of Omalo, you will have the choice of staying in Upper Omalo or Lower Omalo or, alternatively, you could find a wild camping spot almost anywhere in this grassy plateau.

There are countless tiny villages hidden among the majestic mountains… some abandoned and some with home-stays. Getting to these little hillside hamlets can be as easy or as challenging as you want.

The majority of people coming up to Tusheti go there for the spectacular trekking while others come for mountain biking, horse-riding, or just to visit the little villages by taxi (Delica 4×4).

You can get to Tusheti directly from Tbilisi or Telavi or by changing your marshrutka at the towns of Kvemo-Alvani or Zemo-Alvani and they leave when they fill up.

The total trip should cost between 40-70 GEL depending on where you start.

Kutaisi

Editor’s Choice

Kutaisi is Georgia’s third-largest city but it retains an old charm compared to Tbilisi and some of the other cities in Georgia.

It was the former capital and for this reason, it has some important, ancient landmarks. Some of the must-see attractions are the Sataplia Nature Reserve, Prometheus Cave, Bagrati Cathedral, Gelati Monastery, and the Parliament building.

Just as important as visiting the sights, is taking time to explore the city. Wander the city and enjoy its architecture, particularly the Lado Meskhishvili State Drama Theatre.

There is also the Green Bazaar; somewhere you can spend hours of your day gawking over the local produce and delicacies.

Food is also a very important part of being in Kutaisi so be sure to enjoy several Imeretian khachapuris! You can go to award-winning Baia’s Wine south of the city or a nice cafe like Sisters.

Borjomi

Recommended by Luda at Adventures with Luda

Most people may know Borjomi as the fancy carbonated mineral water sold all over Eastern Europe… but the actual town from where it’s bottled deserves to be on your “to visit” list as well!

Borjomi is Georgia’s beautiful resort town located in the mountains and it is the perfect place to break up a long trip from Tbilisi to Batumi. One to two days is plenty of time for you to see most of the attractions in Borjomi.

Start your day with a visit to Borjomi Central Park where you can try the famous mineral water for free! There’s a large “kiosk” stand in the middle of the park where workers pour mineral water that’s extracted directly from below.

Don’t forget to take the cable car up to the panoramic viewpoint where you’ll see a gorgeous view of the entire town. From there, take a moment to marvel at the beautiful architecture of the Golden Tulip Borjomi that was originally built in 1892 as a spa facility and later turned into a hotel.

Other popular places to visit in Borjomi include the red-and-yellow striped Romanov Palace, a place that the royal family used to visit at the beginning of the 20th century, as well as the Borjomi-Kharagauli National Park.

Whether you want to escape from big city life or simply spend some time in nature, Borjomi is the perfect place to do so.

Gori

Editor’s Choice

Gori is the city where Joseph Stalin was born and went to school, and to this day, you can see the Stalinist architecture ever-present in the downtown area.

The most popular attraction of the city is the museum dedicated to him where you can see his belongings and photos of him on display. But, there is far more to Gori than Stalin- I promise!

Another equally important site is the Gori Fortress, located in the middle of the city atop a hill where the view is incredible.

If you enjoy museums, the Sergi Makalatia Gori Historical and Ethnographic Museum is a great place to visit and it’ll help you understand Georgian history further, as well as the Great Patriotic War museum.

The Cathedral of the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin is also an important attraction in Gori and you can enjoy the garden outside the building. Lastly, you can visit the Gori Dramatic Theatre and marvel at its typical Soviet architecture.

Some popular places to eat are the Fish House for fresh seafood, Gamardjoba for some authentic Georgian cuisine, and L’avenue for some fresh food and vegetarian options. If you have a sweet tooth, don’t forget to stop by Cafe 22.

Katskhi Pillar

Recommended by Alex and Malin at Timezone Junkies

Katskhi Pillar, also known as Katskhi Column, has to be one of the most curious sites Malin and I have ever come across. Perched atop a 40-meter rock face, this perilous lookout is home to a single monk who climbs down the daunting ladder twice a week for supplies.

So why is there a chapel on top of this column and how old is it? After finding remnants of a plate with an inscription in 2007, the hermit cells were dated to the 13th century. However, upon further research, it becomes apparent that the actual age of the chapel is debated and range from the 6th to the 13th century.

Either way it is a fascinating place to visit. They even used to have a wine cellar up there! This would have been a dangerous place to get drunk. Unfortunately it is now closed to the public, but after seeing the ladder that runs up the side of the cliff-face you probably wouldn’t want to climb it anyway. It’s definitely not for the faint-hearted, that is for sure.

If there is anything you would like to change or if you have any questions please feel free to let us know.

Chiatura

Recommended by Emily at Wander-Lush

If you’re looking for an alternative place to visit in Georgia, the city of Chiatura in western Imereti region has a fascinating history.

The city was established to service manganese and iron ore mines after deposits were discovered in the area in the 1870s. It flourished, and by the turn of the century, 60 percent of the world’s manganese ore came from the hills around Chiatura.

To increase productivity, a network of cable cars was built to ferry miners from the center of the city, which sits in a low valley, up to the mines. At its peak in the 1950s, Chiatura had 17 separate aerial cableways crisscrossing its valley.

Many of them are still operational and used by residents on a daily basis (although at the time of writing, the lines are closed for refurbishment). Since the cable cars were built on the orders of Stalin himself, they’re often referred to as ‘Stalin’s ropeways’.

A ride in one of Chiatura’s rusty old ‘flying coffins’ is a nail-biting experience, but it’s worth it for the magnificent views of the valley and city from the top. If you like brutalist architecture, you’ll love Chiatura’s concrete cableway station buildings. Some still have their original hammer-and-sickle insignia above the doorway.

Aside from riding the cable cars, you can visit the Pioneers Palace, central market, and wander the streets, which are full of colorful apartment blocks and reminders of the city’s Soviet past. Chiatura is a quiet but friendly city.

There are a handful of hotels and restaurants, but most people choose to visit Chiatura as a day trip from nearby Kutaisi.

The journey takes around 2 hours each way and can easily be done using local marshrutka vans. Along the way, you can stop off at Katskhi Pillar for a view of the iconic monastery.

Martvili

Recommended by Jyotsna at Wander With Jo

Martvili was an unexpected stop for me during my 14-day road trip across Georgia. Whilst heading to Svaneti, we got stuck in heavy rains which slowed us down.

So, a quick overnight stop in Martvili was impromptu. We lucked out and ended up in a cozy guest house owned by the tourism manager of Martvili. He took it upon him to showcase this amazing offbeat destination to us.

Our overnight stay turned into two night stop and we explored not just the famous Martvili canyon, but also the town’s absolutely stunning and obscure natural wonders.

Martvili has an incredible history to boast off and some of the most beautiful waterfalls I have seen in Georgia. Top attractions in Martvili are – Martvili Monastery, Martvili Regional Museum, Kaghu Waterfall, Balda Canyon, Oghueshi Waterfall, and of course, the tourist attraction of town – the stunning – Martvili Canyon, among others.

We could’ve easily spent at least 2 more days doing a lovely trek recommended to us but we were short of time and Svaneti was calling. If you happen to visit Georgia, don’t skip Martvili!

Georgian Canyons

Recommended by Baia at Red Fedora Diary

Apart from beautiful cities, remote villages with medieval defense towers, and ancient cave towns, Georgia is home to various breathtaking canyons that can be visited as a day trip from Kutaisi or Tbilisi.

Okatse, located in the Imereti region, offers a nice walk on a hanging walkway overlooking a massive gorge. The canyon is 35-50 meters deep and 16 kilometers long, but the infrastructure permits you to only be able to walk 1.5 kilometers of it.

Martvili is the Samegrelo region’s jewel, boasting emerald green water running through the ravine. Unlike Okatse, Martvili doesn’t offer a long walking path to explore the area; the highlight here is a short, 300 meter-long, boat ride through the scenic valley.

Once done, walk for 10 minutes through the moss-covered forest, and you are done with the visit.

For more adventurous souls who’d like to hike a short distance, Dashbashi and Birtvisi Canyons are the best places to visit in Georgia. Both of them are very close to Tbilisi and can be done as a day trip from the capital city.

The main reason to visit Dashbashi Canyon is its cascading waterfall and moss-covered stones under the water creating an illusion of beryl-colored creek.

Birtvisi is home to volcanic hillocks overlooked by the once least accessible fortification in all of Georgia.

Uplistsikhe

Editor’s Choice

Uplistsikhe is a cave city based on a rocky plateau on the Kura River. It is located about 10 kilometers away from the city of Gori.

Uplistsikhe is one of the oldest settlements of mankind and in the 6th-century BC became the center for trade between Asia and Europe.

The cave city is the highlight, so it doesn’t really matter where you decide to go first. The main attraction is probably the tunnel that was formerly used as an escape route.

Some other important parts are the large main square in the middle of the cave city, the hall of Queen Tamar, the wine cellar next to it, and of course the Princely Church, which will likely catch your eye first.

The church was built in the early Middle Ages and was named “Church Uplistsuli” (the church of the prince). Gold, silver, and bronze jewelry and sculptures were found there and they can be admired today in the National Museum in Tbilisi.

It is perfectly preserved to this day and it dominates the rest of the ruins of the ancient city.

Uplistsikhe is one of the few sights in Georgia for which we had to pay admission. It was the equivalent of €2.40 per person but is subject to change.

Abudelauri Lakes

Recommended by Miguel at Travelsauro

If you want to add some adventure to your Georgia itinerary, I recommend that you travel to the remote region of Khevsureti where you’ll find fortified stone villages and unspoiled natural wonders such as the Abudelauri Lakes.

These off-the-beaten-path lakes stand out for their colors (green, blue and white), and the unique location. All three are beautiful, but the white lake is undoubtedly the most spectacular as it’s surrounded by giant rocky walls.

The easiest way to get to the lakes is by getting a private tour from Tbilisi to Roshka. Theoretically, this can be done by public transport too.

However, the marshrutkas that connect Tbilisi with this region don’t have daily departures. From Roshka, it takes about 3 hours to hike up to the first lake.

If you are into hiking, I recommend that you take the Juta to Roshka Trek. This trail, which can be completed in one or two days (depending on your hiking ability), goes next to the lakes making it one of the most adventurous experiences you can have in the country.

Kakheti Region

Recommended by Elisa at World in Paris

Kakheti is a region in eastern Georgia formed from the historical province of Kakheti and the small, mountainous province of Tusheti.

Kakheti’s capital is Telavi, located on the foothills of the Tsiv-Gombori Rang. Sighnaghi (see below), is also a really well-known city in the region and a popular place to visit in Georgia. The region produces excellent wines and it is also home to beautiful monasteries and two national parks.

Kakheti is not far from Tbilisi and it is possible to visit some of its sights on a day trip from the capital, as long as you can arrange private transportation. Usually hotels in Tbilisi can help with that.

One of the most popular day trips from Tbilisi is Davit Gareja, a unique 6th-century rock-hewn Georgian Orthodox monastery complex located on the half-desert slopes of Mount Gareja.

Despite David Gareja is located at only 70 km from Tbilisi, this area looks like another world! On the way, we recommend doing a few stops to see more of the region like the Minotsminda Cathedral or for some great views over Mariamjvari Nature Reserve.

Sighnaghi

Editor’s Choice

Sighnaghi is a relatively small town that doesn’t require much time to explore but its location makes it the perfect place to stay while making several day trips to places nearby.

A popular thing to do in town is to walk along the Sighnaghi town wall; it has 23 towers, each one named after nearby cities.

An important place for many Georgians is the Bodbe Convent, where St. Nino who brought Christianity to the country, is buried. The two most prominent churches to visit are St. Stephen and St. Giorgi.

St. Nino’s Spring is where pilgrims come to wash in holy water that will allegedly also heal you. On Sundays, the Bodbiskhevi Bazaar Sunday Market is open and you can see an amazing variety of local goods at unmatched prices.

Host of Sighnaghi is the first restaurant you will see as you enter the city through Tbilisi and if you go there, you can enjoy many Georgians specialties.

Nikala is the perfect place for some delicious Kakhetian food, and tasty khinkali. Lastly, at Pancho Villa you can enjoy Mexican food with Georgian ingredients.

Sighnaghi is undoubtedly one of the best places to visit in the Caucasus countries.

Tskaltubo

Recommended by Kami at Kami and the Rest of the World

Tskaltubo is one of the easiest day trips from Kutaisi and such a fascinating place to visit in Georgia. The healing waters were found in this area already in the 13th-century but the first sanatoriums were opened in the town before World War 2.

Soon after, Tskaltubo became a major spa destination in the former USSR, with some 20 sanatoriums and 9 bathhouses and famous residents, such as Stalin, who had his own cottage here.

After the collapse of the USSR and the civil war in Georgia, the town fell into disrepair and remain so until today. A few sanatoriums are reopened but the majority is in ruins, often occupied by IDPs from Abkhazia.

But even if the buildings are not in the best condition, you can still visit many of them. Fans of urbex will be in heaven exploring abandoned hotels and bathhouses and admiring the grand architecture from the Soviet times.

Even if you are not into urbex, you should still visit Tskaltubo to enjoy the healing features of the bathhouse or visit the nearby Prometheus Cave.

Svaneti

Recommended by Coni at Experiencing the Globe

The Svaneti region is a truly unique place. It’s surrounded by 5000 meters peaks with deep valleys in between, where little towns have flourished. For this reason, people have lived in extreme isolation, giving the Svans a special character, as well as their own culture, language, and traditions.

The emblem of the region are the Svanetian houses, which feature defensive stone towers erected between the 9th and 12th centuries.

Mestia, the capital of the region, is known as Georgia’s capital of adventure.

If you’re into sports, the region offers two small ski resorts (Tetnuldi and Hatsvali), and world-class backcountry skiing.

Also, it’s the ideal place for hiking. The most known trail leads to Ushguli (see below), a UNESCO World Heritage Site said to be the highest permanently inhabited village in Europe. The trek will get you there in 4 days, or you can catch a ride to do a day trip.

From Mestia, you can also do day hikes to the Koruldi lakes and the Chalaadi glacier, both offering stunning views.

To get to Svaneti, jump into a ubiquitous marshrutka to Mestia or if you manage to get a reservation, get an inexpensive flight from Tbilisi or Kutaisi.

Ushguli

Recommended by Yulia at Miss Tourist

Ushguli, one of the main attractions in the Svaneti region, is a tiny community of about 200 people lost in the Caucasus mountains.

Ushguli was proclaimed a UNESCO World Heritage site thanks to its defensive towers that date back to the IX century. It is also considered to be the highest continually inhabited settlement in the world (the elevation there is about 2,400 m)!

Despite the fact it is only about 45 km away from Mestia, the closest “city”, it will probably take you about 3 hours one way driving a 4×4 because of the road quality. You might rent a 4×4 yourself and drive slowly (that’s what we did and it was such a fun adventure!) or hire a local driver to take you there for a day trip.

The views on the way are absolutely breathtaking, if not for the settlement itself, I would go just for that!

We only stayed in Ushguli for a couple of hours to enjoy the views from a terrace cafe, but you can stay overnight and do mountain trekking or horse riding the next day. Attention – Ushguli is not your regular city with 5-star hotels – the accommodation options are super simple, but it is worth it!

Rustavi

Editor’s Choice

Rustavi is a fairly young city and it was officially a city in the year 1948. Nowadays, it is the fourth-largest city in Georgia.

For about a decade after the collapse of the Soviet Union, Rustavi was known as the sleeping city because many of its inhabitants would leave to work in Tbilisi and come back to sleep.

Now, it has become the car city, where there is the biggest manufacturer of car parts and the biggest second-hand dealership. It is also the only place you can obtain your driver’s license.

One of Rustavi’s main attractions is its Motopark where you can watch or even drive a Formula1 car. If you are more into nature, you can hike in Birtvisi Canyon or visit some parks around the city.

There is also a historical museum and drama theatre that are definitely worth a visit while you’re there. Rustavi can be reached by public transportation or taking a taxi from Tbilisi.

Mtskheta

Editor’s Choice

Mtskheta is declared the “Holy City” by the Georgian Orthodox Church and its monuments became a UNESCO World Heritage Site as a result.

It is only a 40-minute drive from Tbilisi and doesn’t require much time to explore fully. There are several sites surrounding the town that are worth seeing, however.

One that can be visited on your way there is the Jvari Monastery, one of the oldest monasteries in the country.

Svetitskhoveli Cathedral is also highly recommended and it is where many Georgians believe the seamless robe of Christ is buried. Visiting Shiomgvime is also an interesting place to walk around or you can visit the ruins of the Amazi castle, named after a Pagan idol.

If you enjoy wine, you must visit the Chamber of Wine, a four-story building dedicated to the beverage.

As for eating, beans are a staple and important part of the cuisine and Salobie is the perfect place to eat this traditional meal. Ada Cafe is also highly recommended… you can enjoy fresh food and a spectacular view of the river!

Gudauri

Recommended by Pedro at Travel with Pedro

Gudauri is famous for being the most popular ski resort in Georgia. But rather than a seasonal destination, Gudauri is a great place to visit all year-round. The resort is located right on the historical Georgian Military Highway, which connects Tbilisi to Russia.

Before arriving in Gudauri, still on the highway, you will find the half-moon shaped Monument to the Georgian-Russian Friendship, built in 1983. It is really worth it stopping at the monument’s viewpoint to enjoy the scenery – the views are truly beautiful!

In the warmer months, the resort is quieter and attracts nature lovers looking to explore hiking trails, going paragliding, or just in search of some peace and quiet. But it’s between December and April that Gudauri becomes a hotspot for skiers from all over the region and, increasingly, other parts of Europe.

With a total of 15 ski lifts, Gudauri Ski Resort offers 35km of slopes, 13% of which is available for beginners, 56% for skiers of an intermediate level (red), and 31% for experienced skiers (black). Day passes are very affordable, with prices around 15 euros per adult.

There are many good hotels in Gudauri, with some new openings coming up. Overall, you can find accommodation for every budget, including small family-run hotels and trendy boutique hotels with a swimming pool.

Abkhazia

Editor’s Choice

Abkhazia is a self-declared sovereign state that is part of Georgia, though the government refuses any sort of union with Georgia. They even have their own language and use the Russian Ruble as a currency.

It lies on the east coast of the Black Sea, making a very popular place for Russian tourists. The nature in Abkhazia is absolutely astonishing, with a sea on one side, and beautiful lakes, several waterfalls, and gorgeous mountains and parks to hike through.

One of the main attractions is definitely the Anacopia Fortress and at the top, you can savor the view of New Athos and the slopes that surround it.

Another very popular destination is the Gegsiky Waterfall and Lake Rica, wonderful options for anyone craving being around a body of water.

The New Athos Simoneau-Kananitsky Monastery is also a very impressive and a must-visit location, or you can enjoy a stroll through the Sukhumi Botanical Garden.

Some of the top-rated restaurants in Abkhazia are Restaurant Nartaa (I ate there almost every meal when in Sukhumi!), Tavern Khait, and DEM. Click here to see how you can travel to Abkhazia.

We hope you enjoyed these many awesome places to visit in Georgia and we hope you were able to add some to your list. If you have more Georgia trip recommendations, please drop them in the comments for future travelers. Thanks!

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Travel to Kazbegi, Georgia – I Hated It but You Will Love It

June 28 2017 by Megan Starr 25 Comments

My trip to Kazbegi, Georgia had everything working against it from the start.

Currently known as Stepantsminda but more often referred to as Kazbegi, this small town inhabiting around 2,000 residents is located in the northeast of Georgia in a region called Mtskheta-Mtianeti. Travelers come from all over to witness the raw beauty of the area and to see Gergeti Trinity Church, the area’s most notable landmark and definitely one of the best places to visit in Georgia.

I went to Kazbegi because my friend, KJ, had planned us a trip there and I knew that if I didn’t partake, my lazy butt would sit in Tbilisi at cafes and I wouldn’t have the opportunity to experience any of Georgia’s natural beauty while there. I was so grateful to be traveling with someone whose travel style complemented mine in the most unassuming of ways. And so Kazbegi was added to our Georgia itinerary.

Mistake 1

I went out to the bars the night before the trip in Tbilisi. I knew this was a bad idea. But I still did it anyway.

Mistake 2

I underestimated Georgia’s wilderness. I knew Georgia had mountains and I knew that they were called the Caucasus. That’s it. Little did I know that Georgia’s mountains, with the exception of one in the same range in Russia, were significantly higher than any mountain anywhere else in Europe. Norway’s mountains are very small but sometimes gives one the impression that they are higher than they are because of the dangerous cliffs into the sea.

And to put this into perspective for my American readers, the Caucasus is even higher than the Rockies. There are only two mountains in the US that out-tower Georgia’s highest mountain and they are both in Alaska. What I’m trying to say is that in Georgia, the word mountain takes on a whole new meaning. Oh yea, and my plans for Kazbegi? To hike.

Mistake 3

We took this trip in mid-April. Not really knowing how grand Georgia’s mountains were, I just assumed there’d be a little snow here and there. I assumed right. Except that it wasn’t just here and there. It was everywhere. And you have the pleasure of taking a road with poor infrastructure the entire way known as the Georgian Military Highway. The Georgian Military is considered by many sources to be one of the most dangerous roads in the world.

And in April, I couldn’t disagree with them in the slightest. In April, the snow is melting and flooding roads, the roads are full of ridiculously deep potholes, and guardrails just don’t consistently exist along this road. It is a total recipe for disaster if you don’t know what you’re doing (or your driver doesn’t). Think I will go to Georgia in summer next time!

And to top things off, I am pretty sure I was wearing flip-flops for the hike that day. Some pics from a stop on our road trip are below:

Road trip from Tbilisi to Stepantsminda or Kazbegi, Georgia

Mistake 4

Not really a mistake, but I am deathly afraid of heights in many situations. And when it comes to being in a car on a mountain, it really shows. When your vehicle is throwing passengers all over the place due to potholes and you’re swerving to dodge snow chunks and other potholes by hugging cliffs so high you can’t even see the bottom, you will come very close to having a heart attack if you’re scared of heights at all. I recall tears running down my face, behind my sunglasses, countless times throughout this trip.

It took us quite a few hours (and by quite a few, I mean well over five) to arrive in Kazbegi and by the time we arrived, I was nauseous, irritated, and regretting this trip like none other. Knowing that I had to endure much of the same on the route home was also so terrifying that I was tempted to hunt for a hostel in Stepantsminda and stay…forever.

The driver dropped us off on the mountain which gave us a stunning overlook of the city and a clear hiking path for the church. All went well for me for the first five minutes as the path was free of snow and the only thing standing in between me and Gergeti Church was a few cows and chickens. And then, it worsened.

The path dwindled into footprints in the snow. Like mentioned before, I am pretty sure I was wearing flip-flops that day (stupid me…) and was in no condition to hike to the top of such a high peak. After trying for a minute or so, I finally slipped and ended up backward, on my butt, in the snow. This exacerbated things for me and I made the declaration to KJ that I was not going to continue.

The driver saw me walking down into the town and pulled up to give me a lift. There was a clear language barrier and it was impossible to explain to him that I’m a wuss and couldn’t hack the hike today.

I walked around the charming town nestled in the Caucasus and even unknowingly to the Russian border.

I found a cozy restaurant and chatted with the kind family who runs it. I even began to sleep my hangover off in the van that took us there.

Before I knew it, KJ and the crew returned and we were on our way back to the place we were staying at in Tbilisi. He told me the scenery was beautiful and definitely worth it, but making the hike in April is absolutely absurd and people should not be attempting it without fair warning (which we didn’t have) during this time of year. He also mentioned that the snow was knee deep throughout most of the walk.

I can honestly say that I am glad I gave up. Normally I would have some sense of regret lurking inside of me, but I truly don’t. I saw the mountain and I saw the church. I just didn’t see it from as high as the others who have made the trek. But I feel like I may have gotten to see something that the hikers don’t always get to see…and that is the resplendent town of Stepantsminda.

PS: I don’t have any photos of the drive as holding a camera still would have been an impossible feat.

If you are interested in Eastern Europe, the former USSR, and the Balkans, please come over and join a group I admin with two other awesome bloggers. Click the photo below to join!

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I went to Kazbegi in April and hated my time there. But it was very circumstantial and I believe everyone else will fall in love with this part of Georgia.

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