Central Asia

Hellish Travels to and from Osh, Kyrgyzstan

November 14 2020 by Megan Starr 16 Comments

Completely fascinated by the fact that this Central Asian city was represented by merely two letters of the Cyrillic alphabet (Ош), I had planned on traveling there back in early 2014 when I was first exploring this region.

Yes, the two-letter spelling of this city is what first ignited my interest in the place. If you are a regular reader on my site, you will know that I tend to travel to places that I am unable to pronounce (i.e. Dnipropetrovsk or Zaporizhia, Ukraine), so this destination was a bit of an unusual one.

In 2014, I was sitting in the commons room of a hostel in Bishkek about to press “BOOK” on plane tickets to Osh, Kyrgyzstan for a few days when a girl came into the room and invited me home to Cholpon-ata with her (she was a local).

The introvert in me reluctantly said ‘okay’ and with that, I closed my laptop and prepared for a trip east, not west as I had initially imagined.

I had the time of my life on Lake Issyk-kul and it turned out to be the best decision ever. She invited me back to Kyrgyzstan in summer and I vowed to return to visit her someday as I had a lot of plans of backpacking the Silk Road and exploring the region deeply.

I later moved to Kazakhstan and she got to see me every other weekend while I was making my visa runs. She probably never imagined inviting me back to Central Asia would result in me moving there, but that is a whole different story… and Central Asia has plov, so….

<plov is a totally legit reason to return to a place, right?>

During my stint living in Kazakhstan, I told her that I finally wanted to get to Osh. With roundtrip tickets being about $35 on some airline that is banned by the EU, we could easily go for a few days. She had never been there. She reserved her tickets and I later officially booked mine.

Throughout this time, our friend Sayyora booked to join on. An Uzbek (Sayyora is from Uzbekistan), a Kyrgyz, and an American playing around in Osh for a few days kind of sounded like the perfect trip. About two weeks prior to our trip, I ended up with the only confirmed tickets as they both had to cancel last minute. Little did I know what I was in for.

While all of this was going on, I decided to leave Kazakhstan. Things just were not working out there and I had been abused by two taxi drivers and I just was fed up with things. No disrespect to anyone from Central Asia- this crap happens everywhere.

I was also tired of the constant visa runs to Kyrgyzstan. My three months outside of Schengen were almost up and I just had a couple more weeks to wait out, which I chose to do in Istanbul (with a side trip to Plovdiv, Bulgaria).

Everything was sorted and there are heaps of things to do in Istanbul, which made me happy. I would travel from Almaty to Bishkek to Osh to Istanbul/Plovdiv, and then end up back in Frankfurt about two weeks later.

I arrived in Bishkek pretty late from Almaty. Because of a near horrible accident two weeks prior to going from Almaty to Bishkek in a marshrutka due to blizzard conditions, I had a plane ticket booked down to Bishkek from Almaty for my next visa run.

This worked out perfectly as my flight arrived late and my flight to Osh left early the next morning. I planned to just sleep at the airport. Anyone who has slept at the Bishkek airport knows what a circus that can be as there are always locals inside and you have to watch your belongings with a keen eye.

<road from Almaty to Bishkek in non-blizzardy conditions>

Somewhere in between arriving through customs and getting my baggage, I had decided to skip Osh and go into Bishkek and enjoy my last few days relaxing and not backpacking in and around Kyrgyzstan. I had five days to play around before boarding a plane to Istanbul and I really wasn’t too fussed about Osh. In fact, I straight up didn’t want to go. I also read that a blizzard was hitting the city.

After talking about my second-thoughts with my man, I decided to just go and take my chances despite something telling me not to. I went to find the luggage storage to lock up my belongings that I didn’t need to take to Osh.

I had read that the Bishkek Airport did have a luggage storage facility, but I couldn’t seem to find it. An hour later and after asking dozens of people, I ended up going to the police to ask if they knew about it.

Naturally, they said it didn’t exist (I later found out that there was one, but I don’t know any additional information regarding it) and asked for a bribe to hold my luggage. After cursing in my head at these assholes, I obliged as I really had no choice and I couldn’t abandon the luggage.

I had left my things out at Adriano Coffee with the barista so I went back to get them and have my cell phone ready to record the exchange in case I had issues later. Just as I had suspected, they changed their price and upped it once they took a photocopy of my American passport (we tend to always get the highest bribes).

The night passed and I finally boarded my plane. This is where I really longed for those night trains in Europe – trains are just easier, even when longer.

I was tired and about to rest my eyes as the captain came on saying something in Russian and Uzbek to the passengers. I understood very little aside from the fact that we were going to be sitting aboard this plane for some time.

The only English-speaker on the plane, I was thankful when I learned that one of the flight attendants spoke some decent English and told me that Osh was being torn apart by a blizzard and landing conditions weren’t ideal. I am pretty sure I said something along the lines of, “Oh that’s cool, can I disembark from the plane?

I don’t want to go anymore.” And I would have really gotten off the plane at this point. This was some type of an omen and I wanted to avoid it so that I could catch my flight to Istanbul a few days later without any issues. I needed out of Central Asia. He wouldn’t let me off the plane.

Three hours later, we took off and Osh awaited us.

We landed, the sun was out, and the snow was still on the ground. I quickly realized that a blizzard in Osh is much different than the blizzard I had recently experienced in Almaty (Osh doesn’t get much snow).

I scoped out the taxi driver scene to see which guy wasn’t harassing me and which one looked the oldest (many of the young taxi drivers are in gangs in Central Asia and this is where I encountered many issues). Luckily, I found a nice man who had also planned to take me back to the airport the next night to catch my flight back to Bishkek. I had his business card and all seemed to go well.

I arrived at my guesthouse and my ‘shared room’ ended up being a room to myself, much to my surprise and relief. Apparently, Osh in December is kind of an anomaly. In reality, traveling to Osh at all is an anomaly.

I was tired and had no plans for the rest of the day after the flight ordeal, so I planned to leave and get some of the local plov and a drink, pending I could find one (Osh is pretty conservative compared to Bishkek).

I found some lousy plov, but no beer to wash it down. I ventured back to my guesthouse to discover the heat wasn’t working and I sat shivering for a few hours before asking the owners for heat. They put a small portable heater in my room and within about thirty minutes it began smoking and it melted the outlet it was plugged into. Sigh…

The next day was absolutely perfect. The sun was shining and the city awaited me. I had waited years to check out Osh and it was so refreshing to finally have the chance to do it. Nothing was going to ruin my day. My flight didn’t leave until around 8pm and I was determined to see as much of Osh as I possibly could.

I hiked Sulaiman, saw the USSR airplane in the theme park, paid Lenin a visit, and had a delicious Greek salad at a local restaurant. I really fell for Osh pretty quickly and was so stoked that I had actually chosen to visit after all these years and the blizzard situation the day prior.

After the perfect day, I gathered my things at my guesthouse and headed out to see my new friend and taxi driver waiting for me. We took off for the airport.

About five minutes from the airport, the driver received a call from his friend saying all flights were grounded. He told me this and I just didn’t comprehend why or what was going on. Somewhere during my confusion, we entered the thickest patch of fog I have ever seen with my own eyes.

Those five minutes to the airport took around thirty as the visibility went down to zero. We arrived at the airport to check the situation and the taxi driver came in with me.

The airport was a madhouse. The small, Soviet building was packed to the brim with stranded passengers and their belongings. The claustrophobic in me started crying and I wasn’t sure what to do. He went to the customer service area on my behalf and told me to sit in a corner by a family with a crying baby until he gathered more information.

I tried changing out money there to get a water (I had transferred all to Euros back in Bishkek and used up all of my SOMs at this point) and the currency exchange wouldn’t take the Euros or allow me to change any money. I would never have managed to stay there the entire night as I had no food, water, or sanity left.

The taxi driver came back to me and informed me that all flights were grounded indefinitely and there was little chance I’d get out in the next few days as there was still a queue from the blizzard the day before.

Unsure of what to do, I asked him to take me back to the guesthouse and I planned to ask them if I could stay an additional night in my igloo of a room. He was so kind and obliged and dropped me off with plans to pick me up the next morning with a clear head and take me back to the airport.

I checked back into my guesthouse and was put back into the same room and there were two loud Russian drunks next to my room which allowed me to get zero sleep that night. Their antics also allowed me to go into a bathroom where someone had pissed everywhere, which added to my early morning pleasure of getting back to the airport to beg to be allowed on a flight back to Bishkek.

At the airport, there was no such luck. There were still days of backed-up passengers and I finally had to chalk up my losses. My driver told me he would arrange me a taxi back to Bishkek. This was a journey I never wanted to make. Fifteen hours in a taxi in one of the highest elevated countries in the world… no thank you. And in winter? HELL NO. But I had no choice.

After some negotiations and being screwed over because of my foreignness, he arranged a taxi back to Bishkek for me. I ended up paying thirty bucks or so as I said I would pay extra for the front seat so I wouldn’t be wedged in between people in the back causing me to have an anxiety attack. Our taxi filled up and we were on our way.

The drive went pretty smoothly until we arrived at the Uzgen Bazaar (near the Uzbek border on our way to Jalal-Abad). I had to quickly open my door to get out as the passing traffic was intense and I stepped immediately onto black ice and landed with my legs twisted and bent in a weird way. Holy shit… I felt paralyzed. Cars behind stopped and watched. People stared, but no one helped.

I used my hands to force myself back to my feet but I was pretty certain I had broken something. The ice was so cold that I couldn’t feel a thing. I eventually was able to get on my feet and I limped despite the excruciating pain into a local shop to get water and something to clean up with.

The female staff was so upset to see that I had black dirt all over my body and tried washing me up quickly before the taxi left. (Update: My legs were in extreme pain for days and I had huge bruises, but nothing was broken… whew!)

The drive continued. I cheered when we entered Uzbekistan briefly. I oohed and awed at the untouched beauty of Lake Toktogul. I ate manti that had far too much dill accompanying them and regretted the lingering taste in my mouth afterward. I took videos and photos out of my grime-covered window.

And I often thought that I was the luckiest person in the world getting to make this drive during the winter months as most people fiercely choose not to. For all the bad events that had led up to that moment, I knew immediately that I regretted nothing and was absolutely stoked to have gotten to witness this drive and scenery.

The roads transitioned from being deserty and clear to being snow-ridden and scary. We inched along, really making this fifteen-hour drive about a fifteen-hour drive and no less.

We eventually came up to a point where we were stopped for two hours as there were issues and uncleared areas along the mountain pass.

We slept for a bit in the car and then got out to take some photos. While I was the only foreigner in the car, my excitement over the scenery must have enthused the other passengers because they started taking photos and videos too.

Somewhere in the middle of the night, I ended up arriving in Bishkek. Tired and unable to feel my legs still from my fall earlier, I grabbed a taxi that screwed me over and went to my usual home away from home, the Capsule Hotel. I arrived and crashed.

My next day in Bishkek was a blur and I left at around 3pm after lunch and coffee with a friend to head to Istanbul for the next two weeks.

Little did I know that this Osh ordeal was only the start of my problems.

I boarded my plane to Istanbul with discount airline Pegasus. I hadn’t heard great things about the airline, but they did only charge about $90 for my one-way ticket last minute, so I didn’t care.

I WAS OUT OF CENTRAL ASIA, a region I love so dearly, but needed a short break from.

The ride from Bishkek to Istanbul went so smoothly and I even had made friends with the flight attendant, whom I still keep in touch with today.

He gave me tips where to find the best balık-ekmek, because that is all I wanted at that moment. He gave me tips on which areas to avoid and to keep my nerves calm despite a sizable terrorist attack two days prior. Life was good. And I found the reviews on Pegasus to be pretty unwarranted.

I arrived at SAW in Istanbul and turned my passport over to the visa office to get my quick $25 visa to be allowed out of the airport and into the city. The guy behind the window glared at me and said ‘no, you go stand over there,’ as he pointed to an office.

Ok, weird… I went into the office and they informed me that since my passport expired at the end of March (it was currently early December) that it didn’t have the six months required in order to obtain a visa for Turkey.

I explained to them my situation and that I could only be in Kazakhstan for fifteen days at a time before having to make visa runs, which didn’t permit me to renew it there. That didn’t matter- he followed the rules (as he should have). The only option I had at this time was to purchase the passport extension that would allow me into Turkey alongside the usual visa. This was going to run me about $125.

I contemplated it but realized quickly that my already arranged plans to Bulgaria would make me have to repurchase the same on my way back into Turkey. I could have canceled Bulgaria but Turkey’s wifi is unreliable and I really needed a plan B.

I asked what other options he had and he took me to an airline agent and said that I could book a last-minute flight elsewhere. Kyiv… I was going to book a last-minute flight to Kyiv.

I went to the desk and tried not to panic. These last-minute flights would surely be overpriced and beyond the $600 in cash I currently had on me (my bank card wasn’t working then). I asked about flights to Kyiv and he looked at my passport and said, ‘Just go back to Germany earlier than you had planned.’

I told him it wasn’t an option as I had to stay out to renew my Schengen visa. He kept trying to explain to me that I was allowed back in Schengen. This was the point where I thought that Pegasus may deserve those poor reviews after all.

He brought another Pegasus staff member over and he, too, explained to me that I should just go back to Germany. What part of ‘I don’t have a visa!!?’ did they not understand??? He then tried telling me that once my German visa had expired in September, I merely had to leave the country and come back in to restart an actual Schengen visa.

No shit. So I moved to Kazakhstan for no reason??? Whether he was right or wrong, I asked him what the cheapest flight was to any city in Germany and I would just try to sort it when I arrived.

Turns out that the cheapest flight was to Cologne and it left in an hour. The flight was only $150 last minute which was impressive in itself.

I purchased it in cash, had my bag pulled off of the conveyor at baggage claim and placed onto the Cologne flight (which they checked for free given my troubles- thanks, Pegasus!) and made my way to my new flight. I called my man and told him what was happening and he was beyond shocked. And excited.

I arrived in Cologne in the middle of the night, went through a passport with absolutely zero troubles, grabbed my luggage, and hopped the 3am train to Frankfurt. By 5:30am, I was home. I was home for Christmas.

I was no longer living out of a suitcase. I could eat a dish and not worry if dill would be the main flavor profile. I didn’t have to look at plov anymore. I was HOME. It was probably one of the best days of my life after the last week of travel hell. But the best part of being home? It was being reunited with this guy.

Charyn Canyon: My First Taste of Nature in Kazakhstan

November 14 2020 by Megan Starr 16 Comments

When I traveled to Kazakhstan nearly three years ago, I never really left the cities. I went to Kostanay, Astana, Karaganda, and Almaty.

I was here at the end of December and throughout a great portion of January and I just wasn’t keen on exploring nature in the frigid temperatures I was welcomed with. In fact, because I flew to almost every destination in Central Asia, the only time I saw anything other than a city in Kazakhstan was on the short train ride from Astana to Karaganda.

I saw the endlessly flat steppe of the country along with a tractor or two. Here I am, almost three years later and back in Kazakhstan, and I have vowed to see as much of the local area’s nature as possible.

To start things off with a bang, I organized the first trip to be to Charyn Canyon, or Kazakhstan’s mini Grand Canyon. This was the perfect day trip from Almaty.

I had someone organize this trip for me and I actually have no idea of the name of the company I went with. I do apologize for that. It was the cheapest way to get to the canyon and I wasn’t looking to spend an arm and a leg getting there (I ended up paying around 15 Euros after a commission to the person booking).

The ‘tour’ was in Russian and despite being told that there would be a variety of nationalities on the trip with me, it turned out to be merely Russian-speaking people with extremely sparse English skills. It was completely fine as I was only on this trip for a little nature and scenery.

About Charyn Canyon

Charyn Canyon is situated very close to the Chinese border. The canyon sits in Charyn National Park (established 2004) in the Charyn River Valley and is around 80km (50mi) long.

It is often referred to as the mini Grand Canyon or the Grand Canyon’s little brother. There are a variety of eye-catching colors on display throughout the canyon and it really is hard to not ‘oooh and ahhh’ every time you turn the corner.

The colors also change with the sky causing a kaleidoscope of colors right in front of your eyes! Every photo I took looked like it came from a different place at a different time of the day.

While this may be the Grand Canyon’s smaller sidekick, I can’t help but think that there is something more spectacular about it as it virtually hosts zero tourists. Aside from the group I was with, I saw maybe ten other people the entire day.

Charyn Canyon is actually comprised of five different canyons: Valley of Castles, Temirlik Canyon, Yellow Canyon, Red Canyon, and Bestamak Canyon. If I had a car, this would not have been a day trip- there is still so much I haven’t seen of the canyon.

Our bus arrived and I was bursting with alacrity and was ready to explore. I was under the impression that we were just going to walk to the river and walk back up. An inveterate flip-flop wearer, I almost donned a pair for the trip since the temperature was a blissful 20C / 68F.

As memories of Kazbegi flashed through my mind, I swapped them out for a pair of Nikes as I have temporarily left my hiking boots in Germany. Best decision ever (to most people this would be referred to as common sense).

At the Canyon

Luckily, we were able to move about the Canyon at our own pace. There was a lot of selfie action going on, in addition to odd poses with rocks, from the other travelers, so I made it to the bottom pretty quickly and was able to enjoy the river with a few others.

I sat and marveled at the landscape for a bit before heading to a tiny and quiet cafe at the base. I ordered a beer and the only other traveler sitting there, a Muscovite named Valerii, ordered us both a glass of kumis (fermented mare’s milk) as we attempted to make conversation with my modicum of Russian skills.

I also failed to inform him that I absolutely abhor kumis (but I strangely like shubat, or fermented camel’s milk). He was continuously trying to explain something to me regarding my beer, but I never understood what he was trying to say. He finished up his plov and we headed back to meet up with our group, who I saw was scaling up the canyon via the steep rocks. What the hell?

Due to the language barrier, I completely missed the fact that we were walking down the canyon and climbing the rocks back up. Apparently, Valerii was trying to inform me of this as I was casually drinking a beer (evidently, he was telling me that drinking the beer was a bad idea and I’m sure I just smiled and pretended I understood him). I have been petrified of heights for a very long time and rock climbing is not really my cup of tea.

I am limber and don’t have an issue climbing… but when you’re crying and shaking the entire time, it makes for a scary experience. Fortunately, everyone motivated me and helped me out which calmed my nerves quite a bit. I made it up alive. We had a lot more hiking and scaling to do, but the difficult part was over. And I didn’t die. Woohoo.

I am glad I faced my fears because the views were some of the best I’ve ever seen anywhere in the world. The whole experience was magical.

The canyon’s landscape is rife with color, giant gerbils (not a rodent fan either), and a feeling of freedom and empowerment that just can not be expressed in words. We hiked and stuck around until the sun started descending below the horizon. The entire day was extraordinary.

Heading Home

We left the national park and made our way to our short pit-stop in Kokpek (a small village with a population of 74 about forty-five minutes to an hour on the way back to Almaty from the canyon).

We had previously stopped there in the morning and the same locals were around and said hello to us again. We then made the long journey back to Almaty and arrived at about 9:30pm.

Final Thoughts about Charyn Canyon

The day was long but just brilliant. It left me with an insatiable desire to see more of this stunning country I am currently calling home. I plan to return to Charyn Canyon with my partner when he arrives in a few weeks and hopefully it will greet us with mild temperatures and decent weather.

If we are lucky, we will get to experience the canyon as well as to travel to Kolsai Lakes during the off season. (Update- I ended up going to Kaindy Lake a couple of years later!) Fingers crossed. If you have any suggestions of nature trips around the Almaty region, please let me know. I don’t have the time to spend traveling too far but would love to see more of what Kazakhstan has to offer, even if it is just locally.

My friend, Katherine (from Almaty) is a travel blogger, photographer, and videographer here in Kazakhstan and is the founder of the popular website Photosafari.kz. She and her team made an incredible video highlighting the best of Kazakhstan’s nature. Please check it out here!

To see more posts from my travels in Kazakhstan, you can click here.

Hiking to Butakovskiy Waterfall in Almaty: Kazakhstan Nature at its Finest

October 31 2020 by Megan Starr Leave a Comment

I arrived back in Almaty, Kazakhstan in early May for two months with the mindset that I was going to work, work, work and travel around Central Asia very little.. The trip I had planned with a friend for journalists and photographers out to the western part of Kazakhstan had fallen through at the hands of delayed funding but I still had my sights set on spending spring and early summer in Kazakhstan, especially in my old home of Almaty.

I had never seen Kazakhstan nature outside of winter and even then, I saw it from afar and never explored it up close. I was going to use my two months in Almaty to work and then occasionally venture into the varied and dramatic Kazakhstan landscape that I had long dreamt of seeing.

A lot of changes took place, including the inability to access this website with ease and a last minute trip to Kyrgyzstan for longer than initially planned, but I did finally get to see some of the nature around Almaty.

And it was beyond grand. One of my favorite stops was Butakovskiy Waterfall, a waterfall near the city and the perfect Almaty day trip. This recaps my time getting lost on my way to finding the Butakovskiy Waterfall and how you can hike there on your trip to Almaty, too!

About Butakovskiy Waterfall in Almaty

Butakovskiy Waterfall, or Butakovskiy Vodopad, is a waterfall located close to Almaty in the Zailiysky Alatau in the Butakovskoe Gorge. It is the perfect place to add to your Almaty itinerary. To reach the waterfall, it is about a two-hour hike there and a two-hour hike back, depending on your starting point.

If you read below where I detail my experience, you will realize that two hours it is not… if you get lost or are just slow in general.

The waterfall is stated to only be 15 meters tall, which everyone who has visited can contest is incorrect. It is at least 25-30 meters tall. There are actually two waterfalls in the area. The first one is the one I hiked to and the second is an additional 1.5 hours of hiking.

Even if I had wanted to continue going, it was dusk as I finally made it out to the waterfall and I had to turn around quickly.

Hiking to Butakovskiy Waterfall in Almaty: Kazakhstan Nature at its Finest and a Day Trip from Almaty

How to Get to Butakovskiy Waterfall

Since Wego.ae has cheap deals on hotels in Almaty, I was able to secure a booking at a place that is almost right beside the bus stop that takes you up to the mountains and to Medeu. The bus number is #12 and the fare is around $.30 – $.50.

You can catch the bus in a few locations, including the corner of Kurmangazy and Dostyk. Because I was staying around Dostyk Plaza, I caught it there on the side of Dostyk Avenue that the shopping center is on.

The bus will obviously be going south toward the direction of the mountains. Medeu is the final stop on this bus and you will need to get off there. The journey will take around 30 minutes or so.

If you’re going on the weekend, expect this bus to be packed with other people. You may want to catch it at its starting point near Hotel Kazakhstan if you are wanting to have a seat on it.

Once you get to Medeu, you will need to walk down the hill slightly until you see a fence and a path to the right. Follow the water canals for a while. The road will be driveable but it will eventually turn into a place that can only be accessed by foot.

Once you see a couple of large houses in front of you, you will want to follow the path in between them. If people continue on, don’t worry, this doesn’t mean you’re going the wrong way. They are likely going to Furmanov Peak. You will see a sign in Russian that states Butakovskiy Waterfall is on your route.

You will go over Komissarovsky Pass, a relatively easy pass that is about 2200 meters, as you work your way to Butakovskoe Gorge. This is where it may get a little interesting. You will walk alongside a stream and see a few rusty huts.

Signs are only sparingly placed, so just keep following the path and eventually, you will end up in a small village where there will likely be signs of life and other tourists present.

From the village, you will take a right at the end of the road and you will eventually pass a horse stable and restaurant to your left. Continue on up the road and you’ll see signs pointing you to Butakovskiy Waterfall. You still have a ways to go.

You’ll walk through a valley and the path will veer a bit left. Follow this until it takes you to a river. You will need to cross this river (it isn’t deep). Use the rocks to guide you or a log to get across.

From here, you will have to climb up rocks for about fifteen to twenty minutes. This is the area with the most potential for hazards and mishaps and Kazakhstan nature can be pretty unforgiving. Be very careful and navigate slowly and confidently. Once you’re at the top of this area, you will continue through another valley and the waterfall will be hidden at first to the left. Eventually, you will hear and see it.

You can take a path to the bottom (which you could have followed the entire time if you walked through the rocks and the river) of the waterfall or you can stay on the same path you’re on to get a view from higher. I did both. There is a bit of climbing in this area so, again, be careful and use your best judgment.

You can return back to the village and catch a bus or ride from there instead of going back via Komissarovsky Pass.

My Time Getting Lost at Butakovskiy

I had been excited for days about my trip to Butakovskiy Waterfall. I had mapped out my route and actually decided to go at it alone since the hike was easy and I just wanted to listen to music and enjoy the scenery. I wasn’t pressed for time and set off early that morning catching the bus up to Medeu. Once at Medeu, I started the walk toward the waterfall.

Around three hours into the hike, the weather was getting cold and temperamental and I decided to just check with another hiker to ensure that I was going the right way. I met a lovely lady named Aida, who runs Steppe Spirit on Instagram, and she laughed and informed me I was on my way to Furmanov Peak, one of Almaty’s premiere hiking destinations (and one I was too out of shape to successfully complete).

I begrudgingly turned around and she guided me at least an hour and a half back to the area where I was to turn to head to the waterfall. I had wondered why the hike had been fairly challenging up to that point… and I finally understood why! I said my goodbyes to her and started my way toward Butakovskiy Waterfall.

I was a bit shocked that there weren’t more people hiking from this starting point to the falls. I remember seeing maybe one other person for the duration of about two hours. It was kind of nice, but as someone who isn’t super experienced hiking, it was also a bit scary as I shouldn’t have been hiking alone in the first place.

I was sliding around the mud and on gravel in certain areas around Komissarovsky Pass and was able to find myself a makeshift trekking pole from a tree branch (tip- bring your own!) which was extremely helpful.

I eventually ended up at the bottom of the valley and was feeling a bit ill. I had brought plenty of water, but I hadn’t taken along any food and I didn’t recognize any of the greenery around me and wasn’t confident enough to eat any of it. I carried on after a short break and was very relieved when I arrived in the small village and found a restaurant.

At the restaurant, I ordered a coffee and french fries. Feeling refreshed, I realized it was getting pretty late and I had no idea how much further the waterfall was and if I was even in condition to reach it at all. I didn’t give up and headed out toward the mountains again.

After two hours, I arrived at the waterfall. I had the place all to myself at that moment and it was a really empowering feeling as I had almost given up ten times throughout the hike. It wasn’t the most difficult of hikes, but I am out of shape and I was alone for it. I soaked up the Kazakhstan nature and the spray from the waterfall and just basked in the happiness of finally seeing some of the wild landscape of the country I had once called home.

I didn’t have much daylight left, so I celebrated a successful hike (that should have taken only about two hours but took over ten!), met a few people on the way back who were still trying to reach the falls, and ended up back in the village.

Getting Back to Almaty from the Waterfall

There are usually marshrutkas and taxis waiting to take people back from the village into Almaty. Interestingly enough, I met a guy hiking who took a few pictures of me and sent them to his family stating that he met an American girl on the hike. His family had been sitting in the restaurant as there was a newborn baby along with them.

When I arrived back in the village, the family had been going to their car to leave the mountains earlier than the others and recognized me from the photos the guy sent. They immediately offered me a ride into the city for no-charge and then invited me to dinner with them. Kazakhstan hospitality can be so wonderful.

What to Bring for the Hike

If you are backpacking through Kazakhstan, you may already have plenty of the things you would need for the hike such as the right hiking shoes, apparel, trekking poles, etc. Here are some tips for the hike and things I think you need to take along for the journey (you can also shop the post at the end).

Reusable Water Bottle or Jug (already filled with water): There are quite a few water sources along the way, particularly once you’re climbing the rocks toward the end. They are all clean and you can just fill your water jug up with some refreshing, mountain water in order to stay hydrated. Click to see the Klean Kanteen I use.

10L Dry Bag from The Friendly Swede: Almaty’s weather, especially in the mountains, is unpredictable and you can easily see snow, rain, and sun all in the same day most of the year. This dry bag is something I carry around religiously and it protects my camera equipment from anything the weather gods send my way. Click to see the Friendly Swede dry bag set I use.

Keen Targhee Mid-Waterproof Hiking Boots: I’d be lost without these hiking boots. They have been on five continents and in countless countries with me. They were ideal for this hike. Click to see the Keen Targhee boots I use.

Russian dictionary or phrasebook: You never know who you may meet along the way. And you never know if they will be able to speak English or not. If you have questions, it is always good to have a dictionary on you or an app downloaded with offline access as you will not have service in the mountains around Almaty. Click to shop a Lonely Planet Russian Phrasebook.

Food: I made the mistake of bringing nothing for the day. I recommend you don’t do the same.

Trekking Poles: Better safe than sorry with hikes in the mountains around Almaty because you never know what to expect or how the weather has been. While it may be sunny when you’re in the city, never expect the same in the mountains. It is cold and often rainy or muddy. Trekking poles will be your safety net.

Lee ND Filters: If you’re interested in photographing the Butakovskiy Waterfall during the day and want to take a long exposure, you will likely need a good ND filter to make this happen.

Lee Filters are some of the best on the market and they will be your best friend when photographing this waterfall and others. Be sure to have a tripod and remote for best results. Click to shop Lee ND filters.

Patagonia Fleece: I definitely recommend bringing a fleece or something that can keep you warm against the mountain air that can be rather brisk and chilly at times, no matter what time of the year you’re visiting the waterfall. I like Patagonia fleeces because the company is ethical and the clothing is high-quality.

Where to Stay in Almaty, Kazakhstan

I always stay at Parasat Hostel when in Almaty. They are conveniently located and the owner of them is outstanding and really a great guy. If you’re looking to book a hotel in Almaty, be sure to check out the location and ensure you’re actually in Almaty.

I always recommend people to stay around Dostyk Avenue. You will be centralized and close enough to metros, parks, the incredible Kazakhstan nature, and plenty of grocery stores.

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Arriving at Almaty Airport with airBaltic (and What to Do Once You Land)

October 30 2020 by Megan Starr 3 Comments

I am not really someone who traditionally has been loyal to certain airlines. I frequently flew with American Airlines in the US because I had a lot of points with them and could cash in for free flights on a regular basis. However, once I moved to Europe… I was in a territory where discount airlines existed and those airlines frequently dropped me off in random cities far away from my intended destination. While most travelers hate this, I welcomed it.

It allowed me to explore cities I would never have visited otherwise. And then there was airBaltic. My first flight with airBaltic was in 2011 and it took me to Kyiv, Ukraine with extended layovers in Riga, Latvia both times. I didn’t know much about the airline, but by the end of that trip, I was sold. They flew to several destinations I connected with and was interested in. I quickly grew to love the Riga Airport and it felt like home. As did Riga itself. I have flown airBaltic at least twenty to thirty times over the years, which is a huge feat on a continent where you can find flights for $10 round trip with other airlines.

On April 29, 2018, airBaltic launched flights from Riga to Almaty, Kazakhstan. A few days later, I was scheduled to be on one of those flights. I was in Yerevan, Armenia and a revolution was unfolding. I never considered that this would hinder my ability to get back to Tbilisi to catch my flight from TBS to Riga to Almaty. But it did.

Borders shut down and I was unable to leave Armenia. I contemplated staying around Armenia for the following two months, but my heart wanted to be in Almaty. So, I had the flights rescheduled for the following week. And just like that, I was off to Kazakhstan… a country I had previously called home at the end of 2016 for a few months.

Riga to Almaty with airBaltic

Currently, the Riga-Almaty route runs three times a week. The prices start at 159 euros one way and go up accordingly based on dates and desired class. The flight itself is just over 5 hours and is a red-eye flight, which I found very easy to pass out on and get a solid night’s sleep on. The check-in procedures were easy and painless. Just be sure that you’re at your gate a little earlier than usual as you will have to pass through Schengen passport control. There was a flight to Moscow around the same time as my flight to Almaty, so the passport stamp-out had a small line.

Bombardier CS300 with airBaltic

While I am not someone who is extremely knowledgeable about the planes I fly in (I really should be better at this), I am certain that this trip was my first overnight experience on a Bombardier plane. I had taken one right before to leave Tbilisi for Riga, but it wasn’t a lengthy trip, so I didn’t get to enjoy the full experience like I did on the Riga to Almaty route. My first impression was that the plane felt very spacious, which as someone with claustrophobia, is a major deal and added bonus.

In addition, the overhead bins for luggage storage were easily the largest ones I have ever seen. While I always pack the right weight, the weight of my luggage is never evenly distributed and I often am trying to shove things into the bins. These ones were so large that I actually had to stretch to get my bag out once we were disembarking in Almaty!

Business Class on the CS300

I was upgraded to Business Class for my flight and this gave me the opportunity to experience the food and amenities that Business Class with airBaltic offers. Unfortunately, I fell asleep for nearly the entire duration of the flight and did not get a chance to enjoy the meal. The offerings for my flight were eggplant roulette with cream cheese and tomato pesto (appetizer), sous vide pike-perch fillet with baby potatoes, olive tapenade, and herb butter (main course), and lemon posset with strawberry sauce (dessert). Such a shame I didn’t get to enjoy this because I rarely can stay awake while in-flight.

Having a Business Class ticket also permitted me to have lounge access at Riga International Airport. While I spent my day in the city, I did go check out the lounge quickly to see what it had to offer. The lounge was well-stocked with beer, liquor, wine, and a lot of small eats. There were TVs with sports on, shower facilities, and really comfortable couches and seats. I, without a doubt, could have spent the entire day inside of that lounge. But, Riga is too awesome of a city to sit inside the airport all day if you have the chance to go into the city.

Arriving in Almaty with airBaltic

I woke up as we started our descent, and I am so glad that I did. I gazed out the window and one look at the snow-covered peaks of the Tian Shans and I got butterflies in my stomach with anticipation of being back in one of my favorite cities.

Once we landed, we were bussed to the terminal and got in line for passport control. Be sure that you get one of these white pieces of papers on the plane before landing (and if you don’t, you will find them as soon as you enter the customs area in the terminal). Fill it out accordingly and DO NOT LOSE IT. If you lose this piece of paper during your trip to Kazakhstan, you will receive a hefty fine.

Customs should be fairly easy. The officers may ask you where your visa is. If you have a visa-free visit to Kazakhstan, be sure to let them know that. I have heard that sometimes if you aren’t confident, they will make you purchase a visa on the spot for money which is crappy if true. But I think they are just checking and making small talk as you walk through customs.

Do You Need a Visa for Kazakhstan?

Funny enough, I have been to Kazakhstan several times and have hit every visa change they have had in the last five years. When I first arrived, I needed an expensive ($160) visa. When I moved there, I fell under their visa-free scheme that permitted Americans 15 days in the country without a visa. Now, they have upped the visa-free scheme to 30 days for Americans and many other nationalities. Based on the people reading this blog- here is the current visa scheme and situation (and for other nationalities, click here for more information).

90 days visa-free in Kazakhstan: Armenia, Georgia, Belarus, Russia, Kyrgyzstan, Moldova, Ukraine, Mongolia

30 days visa-free in Kazakhstan: USA, Canada, Australia, EU citizens, Norway, Iceland, New Zealand, and many more.

Be sure to check that these policies have not been updated or changed before your trip, however. You do not need to register but you do need to hold on to that white piece of paper which will be collected as you leave the country by air or land.

ATMs and SIM Cards at Almaty International Airport

There are plenty of ATMs in the main lobby of the airport where you can withdraw money from to get into the city. I suggest waiting on getting a SIM card until you’re in the city. I always get my SIM card through Beeline and at the same place (corner of Furmanov and Tole Bi Streets). You may end up screwed over if you go through an independent dealer otherwise. The Almaty Airport has wifi, but it seems to only work if you have a working SIM card at the time with a Kazakhstan or Russia number. I am certain there is a workaround with this, but I just wanted to get into the city and sleep more!

Getting from Almaty Airport into the City

There are a couple of options for getting from the airport into the city. I usually opt for a taxi, but you MUST ensure the taxi is legit. I had issues in 2016 with a fake taxi from this airport into the city (which resulted in police involvement). When you walk outside, there will be some SUV taxis to your left. You can take one of them for 3000 tenge (like $10 or so). Or, you can get one from the Yandex taxi app. The Yandex one may be cheaper, but you need to have a working SIM card or wifi to order one, so I often just opt for one that is already at the airport even if I pay slightly more.

You can also take a public bus from the Almaty Airport into the city. To get the latest bus route information- check out the Almaty Airport’s homepage.

Welcome to Almaty, Kazakhstan!

You’re in one of my favorite cities in the world. Enjoy it! To read more about Almaty and Kazakhstan. You can also check out pieces I’ve written for this blog about Kazakhstan here.

*Special thanks to airBaltic for flying me from Tbilisi to Riga to Almaty on one of their new Bombardier CS300s recently. And thanks for the Business Class upgrade- even though I was too tired to enjoy that delicious meal!

If you are interested in Eastern Europe, the former USSR, and the Balkans, please come over and join a group I admin with two other awesome bloggers. Click the photo below to join!

From Bishkek to Ala Archa National Park in Kyrgyzstan

August 27 2020 by Megan Starr 25 Comments

Everything I read online indicated that a day trip to Ala Archa National Park, a nature refuge about twenty minutes outside of Bishkek, would be a piece of cake.

My Kyrgyz friend, Jyl, even did an abundance of the research for me (since most of it is in Russian). A lot of the research out there in English is incorrect, but prior to me heading there, I was able to get most of the wrong information corrected by local sources.

I was desperate and needed a break from the bleak and Soviet city of Bishkek (I do love it, but sometimes you need a retreat outside of it!)

I opted to go there when I did because the weather was supposed to be warm in Bishkek. I figured that it might be slightly colder in the mountains, but not enough that I would need winter gear or proper footwear.

If you are aware of my track record, you know that I often dress very inappropriate for the weather. This day was no different. I wore a fall jacket, summery scarf, tattered sneakers with little traction, and a short-sleeve top… to go mountain hiking. I am shaking my head in embarrassment just thinking about it.

The east coast American in me has no idea what mountains really are, let’s be honest.

<Kyrgyzstan has real mountains… no offense, Virginia>

My Day at Ala-Archa National Park

Getting back to the day trip, I set off at around 0900 from Bishkek. I read online that you must get to the Osh Bazaar and find marshrutka 365 from there.

That is very incorrect- the correct marshrutka number is 265. Upon arriving at the Osh Bazaar, I learned that the marshrutkas that went to the park only left every three hours and I still had about an hour to wait. Jyl was seeing me off and took me to the local grocery store to grab some bread and snacks for the day.

When we arrived back at the marshrutka departure area, we found one labeled 265 despite still having to wait another forty-five minutes.

After chatting with the driver, we negotiated to have him take me to the bus stop (this one didn’t quite go the entire distance) for an extra 50 soms, or a little less than $1.

The forty minute marshrutka ride takes passengers through small villages outside of Bishkek situated at the foot of the mountains. It was shocking to see the difference in lifestyles that a short ride can expose one to.

But it also made me realize that living in Bishkek gave one completely accessible nature (and for that, I was envious).

The driver dropped the last passengers off and drove me another five to ten kilometers to Ala Archa National Park’s first gate. I was told that there was a seven-kilometer walk to the next gate, which is where the trails to the river, glacier, and waterfalls begin.

The loquacious bus driver, from the nearby village of Kashka Suu, informed me that there would be several taxis and other visitors entering the park and I could hitchhike a ride with one of them to gate two to save some time.

He then dropped me off and I paid 50 soms (less than $1) to enter the park (the sign said the entrance fee was 80 soms but perhaps I got a deal based on how poorly I was dressed to go hiking).

The gate was deserted and lacked any hint of life. It actually made me slightly concerned that I would be unable to hitchhike to the next gate. Luckily, after about ten minutes of walking and being mesmerized by the scenery surrounding me, a car pulled up and asked me if I wanted a ride.

I, of course, obliged. The car was a hired taxi containing a lovely Bulgarian woman who had been living in Bishkek for quite a few years. She was dressed in some hardcore hiking gear. When I told her my intentions to hike to the waterfall, she caustically laughed and said it would not be possible based on my attire.

Well, damnit. Leaving my hiking boots in Germany has hurt me on more than one occasion since relocating to Central Asia and Ala Archa National Park proved to be no exception.

I am sure the woman spent her hike laughing about the dumb American who showed up to hike mountains in an outfit that she would go to the bar in.

We arrived at the second gate after a fifteen to twenty-minute drive and I graciously gave her 100 soms and she explained to me that based on my dress, I would be unable to take the same trail as her. That was the trail I had planned to hike as you get to see the waterfall and glacier up close and personal.

But she did tell me that if I was careful, I could manage the easier trail, which just takes you along the river. I was super thankful for her advice as she was no novice to Ala Archa National Parkand surprisingly, the stubborn part of me decided to listen to her.

She went on her way and I started on the trail to the right, which goes alongside the river. To my surprise, there was snow everywhere. Yea…….. I was definitely not expecting that given the warm temperatures in the city. And, as I was walking along the trail, more snow started to fall from the sky. It was eerily peaceful.

Ala Archa National Park near Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan

About twenty minutes into my hike, I ran into a small group having a picnic by the river. As I was getting close to the river to take a photo, the group smiled at me and invited me over.

I moseyed on over and they immediately handed me a shot of cognac to warm me up. The group consisted of three Russians named Vera, Anatolii, and Igor and a Kyrgyz man named Adilet.

The Russians were from Moscow and had been in Bishkek for a post-Soviet conference for the arts community. They were all artists and were about to catch their flight back to Moscow a few hours later, but wanted a dose of the alluring Kyrgyz nature first.

They spoke fantastic English and we chatted for quite some time. Five shots of cognac and many cheers to ‘health’ and ‘meeting again in the future’ later, they packed up their picnic and left for the airport.

It’s not easy cooking food when backpacking or hiking, so I grabbed some of the leftovers and shoved them into my bag.

That group reminded me of how fortunate I was to have the opportunity to travel and meet such altruistic and fascinating people. I am certain I will meet up with them in the future on my next trip to Moscow.

<How beautiful is Vera’s scarf??>

I was alone in the wilderness once again and strolled along admiring the breathtaking scenery. I walked for two hours (the trail wasn’t that long, but I was moving at a very sluggish pace) and slowly felt the nature bringing me back to life after spending so much time imprisoned in the city.

During that time, I only ran into one other traveler, a friendly guy named Mohammed, who lived in Dubai. An American passport holder who was born in San Francisco but grew up in Saudi Arabia, Mohammed and I chatted for a bit at the end of the hike and he left the park.

I decided to head into the lodge at the gate and have a beer to celebrate such a wonderful day (and rid my breath of any residual cognac).

The Bulgarian lady had earlier informed me that the lodge could call me a taxi to take me to the first gate so I allotted myself an hour of hanging out there before having to leave to catch my marshrutka at the first gate. I enjoyed a beer and asked them to call a taxi. Puzzled, they said they couldn’t do that. Shit.

After asking everyone inside the lodge and all saying they were unable to call one for whatever reason, I decided to walk and hitchhike once again. I opened up Google maps only to realize that the walk was not seven kilometers, but rather about twelve to fifteen. Shit. Again.

I had two and a half hours to make my way to the bus stop if no one picked me up. I could do it, but the scenery surrounding me made it very, very easy to dawdle time. I tried hitchhiking with the first car I saw and they sped past me, leaving me slightly panicked. The sight of cars or a chance of getting a lift back was becoming more and more scarce.

I had to book it to get to that bus stop as the 1730 bus was the last bus of the day. I walked for about 6.5 kilometers (4 miles) and finally, a car pulled over and asked me if I needed a ride.

I was so thankful to see them and hopped into the SUV to meet Erkin and Andre, two Kyrgyz guys, and their friend, Dmitry, from Belarus.

Instead of taking me to the bus stop, they said it would just be easier to give me a lift back to Bishkek as they were making a stop there prior to taking Dmitry to the airport to head back to his current home in St. Petersburg.

They refused payment and were just excited to converse in English with someone as they said it made their day a little more random and exciting.

<It breaks my heart that that statue of a snow leopard was the only one I saw on the hike>

<once the sun came out, the water began to take on a teal hue>

I was dropped off in Bishkek close to where I was staying and was absolutely beat. But… what a great freaking day. Transportation didn’t go according to plan, but hey, that’s travel.

I met some lovely people and felt so rejuvenated after the plenteous amount of fresh air. Ala Archa National Park is an absolute must for those visiting Bishkek.

Getting to and From Ala Archa National Park from Bishkek

Marshrutkas (number 265) leave Bishkek near the Osh Bazaar at 0800 and 1050. I suggest you to not take anything later as you will be deprived of time in the park. Ensure that the marshrutka goes to the gate, though.

You can also ask the driver if you can pay extra to get a lift to the second gate to avoid the long hike from the first gate). They will probably say no, but you never know.

If you catch Marshrutka 265 outside of these times, it will probably stop in Kashka Suu… but for an extra 50 soms, it may still take you to the first gate. The usual cost is 50 soms.

You can also take taxis from the city, but it will be more expensive. Many taxi companies will charge you around 2000 soms ($30), but the Bulgarian woman I met along the way said she had one lined up to take her (and pick her up) for 700 soms (about $10). I stupidly forgot to get the taxi company information from her.

To return from Ala Archa National Park, you can catch a marshrutka nearly every three hours at the first gate. They leave at 1200, 1500, and 1730. The 1730 marshrutka is the last one! Do not miss it.

The Trekking Union of Kyrgyzstan also has arranged trips for affordable prices to Ala Archa. To see additional information, check out their website.

Practical Information about Ala Archa National Park

To enter the park on foot, you will be charged 80 soms (although I was only charged 50 soms). There are two trails- an easy one and a more challenging one. The easy one goes to the right and is well-marked. This trail takes you alongside the stunning river and towards the rocky gorge.

The left trail takes you up the mountain a bit and you can see the waterfall and glacier from this one. The left trail is apparently an easy hike if you’re used to hiking and are dressed properly for the occasion.

What to Bring for a Day Trip

Bring decent shoes! Also, bring extra clothing as it can get a bit cold on the hike. If you’re hiking the easier trail in the winter, it would be smart to wear waterproof shoes as you may need to step through some of the glacier runoff in the gorge. Five shots of cognac gave me the genius idea to just step through it with my Nikes, leaving my toes frozen solid for a while afterward.

Aside from the lodge at the beginning, you will have no other options for purchasing food. It is cheaper and more practical to bring your own food and water with you.

I plan to head back to Ala Archa National Park when my partner comes to visit in a few weeks and he will bring me proper clothing and shoes from Germany. Our goal is to hike the left (more difficult) trail.

If we succeed, I will update this post to reflect any new revelations or information. (Update: I never went back to Ala-Archa, but I did make it to Issyk-ata Soviet Sanatorium instead!)

My Top 17 Favorite Things to Do in Astana, Kazakhstan (Nur-Sultan)

July 19 2020 by Megan Starr Leave a Comment

Believe it or not, I traveled back to Astana, Kazakhstan. I said it would never happen after my last trip there and I was pretty insistent on that for years.

But times changed, I grew up, and I came to realize that there were probably things to do in Astana these days that didn’t exist in the past. I also realized that events hosted, like the EXPO 2017, probably changed the demeanor of the city.

Update: I have updated the name of the city to Nur-Sultan in the title after it was recently renamed. It will stand as Astana around the post and I will update soon.

Things to do in Astana

The trip happened pretty quickly and I was scheduled to be the headline speaker at Astana Travel Day in the Kazakh capital city.

I had my travel arranged and fortunately, the options of places to stay in Astana has improved since I was last there in 2013.

Comparing prices for hotels has never been easier and the options existing range from luxury to mid-range to budget… finally! Before even arriving in Astana, I knew this trip would be better than my last one.

Once I arrived, I got settled into my place and started to explore the city with an open mind.

While it will never replace my love for Almaty (or even come close), I definitely found more to do in Astana and somewhat enjoyed my time there. This is a list of my top things to do in Astana, Kazakhstan.

Where to Drink and Eat in Astana

When I first went to Astana five years ago, I struggled to find good places to eat and drink at. I ate at the city’s famed revolving restaurant and it was one of the most horrifyingly bad food experiences I have ever had.

While I didn’t find an overwhelming amount of places this time, I still found a few worth mentioning and these few experiences actually made me realize that eating and drinking is one of the best things to do in Astana… and it will only get better there as the city progresses.

Drink Coffee at Ministerstvo Coffee

I had been wanting to visit this place since it opened its doors. I even updated my other Astana post to include it encouraging others to check it out. I finally got to go on this trip and my expectations were certainly met.

The cafe has a cool and comfortable atmosphere with smooth and delicious coffee. They also have a lot of workspace for people that are slaves to their computers like myself.

I actually spent nearly twelve hours in Ministerstvo Coffee one day working on my presentation for the travel fair.

The customer service is superb and I also enjoyed a smoothie there one day. But, I mostly devoured their tasty coffee (flat white). If you’re a coffee-lover- Ministerstvo Coffee is a can’t miss!

You can find Ministerstvo Coffee at Dinmukhamed Qonayev St 33-35 near the House of Ministries. To find out more, check out their Facebook page.

Have a Beer at Pinta

Pinta is actually a chain with fifteen locations across Kazakhstan. So, why would I even dare list it here? Well, I really like their beer. They have their own beer brewed for them and their Red Rocket is really good.

They serve in large three liters down to small glasses, so you can have your choice of size if you’re in a large group (and it’s super affordable!)

I have been to Pinta in Almaty a few times and then I went in Astana twice with my friend from the Canary Islands. It was the perfect environment to enjoy a beer and socialize.

There are multiple locations for Pinta in Astana. To find out where they are and more information, check out their Facebook page.

Enjoy Kazy Plov and a Beer at Cafe Infinity

I loved this place. No other way around it. I found myself there every single evening ordering a Shymkent beer for 300 KZT (often more than one) and eating manti, beetroot salads, or plov with kazy. Kazy is horsemeat.

While I am not a huge fan of horsemeat, they prepared it well and it was extremely tender and the plov had great flavor.

Cafe Infinity wasn’t a lively place but had a great atmosphere and it was easy for me to work from. Their wifi consistently worked well and every booth had a power outlet.

They also played Kazakh music videos which kept me entertained on more than one occasion. Cafe Infinity was located next to where I was staying which was really convenient for me. They also take credit cards.

You can find Cafe Infinity at 42 Kabanbay Batyr Ave. in Astana. To find out more information, check out their Instagram account.

Transplant Yourself to Southeast Asia at The Thai

I hit a breaking point when I was in Astana. I was eating Central Asian food daily and unfortunately, my stomach hated me as a result.

Central Asian food, while amazing and delicious, is also extremely oily and heavy. I actually had one day where I ran to a chain cafe in desperate need of a salad… for breakfast.

I had heard that The Thai was a really good restaurant, but I rarely have my hopes up when eating Thai food in foreign countries. On my last day in Astana, I hit a breaking point. I took a taxi there to check it out.

WHAT AN EXPERIENCE. This was some of the best Thai food I had had in ages.

I wore a t-shirt and leggings with smelly Nikes there and they treated me like royalty even though my dress was totally offensive (I had no idea it was such an exclusive and luxurious restaurant).

While the decor was fancy, the food was still affordable and out of this world.

You can find The Thai at Turan Ave 24 at the top floor of Saryarka Mall in Astana. To find out more, check out their Facebook page.

Modern Architecture in Astana

I have to admit, modern architecture is not my thing. But, it is some people’s ‘thing’ so I am listing it here alongside a couple of my favorite buildings or structures in Astana.

These are pretty much generic and basic, but essential to check out for everyone visiting Astana.

Fish Bridge on the Yesil River

One of Astana’s newest masterpieces, the Fish Bridge opened just recently to the city and was a gift from the Atyrau region.

The bridge was a gift for the city’s 20th birthday (and perhaps Nazarbayev’s 78th birthday). The structure is beautiful. I was mesmerized walking across the pedestrian crossing.

And the best part about it is that it serves as part of Astana’s new 56 kilometers of bike paths.

But don’t get too excited- if you’re a tourist wanting to use a city bike, you better speak Russian or Kazakh because you can’t rent one otherwise (hint, hint, Astana).

Either way, this bridge is perfect to stroll across or throw on that original maxi dress and straw hat for a photoshoot for the ‘Gram. No one else has done it before. Promise.

Check Out Astana’s Symbolic Baiterek Monument

When I think of Astana, this is what I think of. I sometimes also think of -50C degree winters or, but mostly I think of Baiterek.

The symbol of Astana is a monument and observation tower located in the city center and it stands 105m (344 ft) tall.

The statue is supposed to represent a post-Soviet Kazakhstan and the symbol draws from ancient stories and folklore in the Central Asian country. I love it.

While I don’t love all of the modern buildings in Astana, something about the Baiterek excites me and makes me photograph it every single time I see it. I seriously have hundreds of photos of the thing.

Nur-Astana Mosque

The Nur-Astana mosque, located close to Baiterek, is exquisite perfection. The white building and ornate pieces of gold glisten against Astana’s often blue skies and I just find the building dreamy.

I have not yet been inside, but I always make it a point to walk by it as much as I can when in Astana.

I was so excited to see it against the vibrant autumn colors of Astana this past trip that I can’t not showcase a photo of that. It was just jaw-dropping.

As the third-largest mosque in Central Asia, making a photography or curious stop at Nur-Astana mosque is one of the essential things to do in Astana.

You can find the Nur-Astana mosque at Qabanbay Batyr Ave 36 in Astana.

Pop Open a Beer by the Beer Cans

Or actually, on second thought… don’t. I don’t think open drinking is even legal in Kazakhstan so really don’t. But go there and enjoy the ‘beer cans’ (the term coined by locals)… these two golden buildings that are near the Presidential Palace.

They are best seen in the mornings at sunrise but truly glow any time of the day.

These buildings were one of my first memories of Astana and while that trip wasn’t really all that successful, the image of them stuck with me and I reckon that is a success.

Marvel at Khan Shatyr From the Outside

But don’t worry about going in (just kidding). It is really spectacular from the outside. The inside is a mall.

I thought the mall was pretty cool last time I was there but I was kind of bored with it this time as it seemed nothing new was there.

But… there is a beach up top that imports sand from the Maldives (last time I was there I was told it was Dubai). Either way, this building was unveiled in 2006 by President Nazarbayev and still stands as a proud symbol of the country.

The architect behind the project was UK’s Norman Foster. PS: It radiates at night. Go then.

Art and Culture in Astana

Finding art and culture in Astana can be either really easy depending on what you’re into… or extremely difficult if you’re into something else.

I love Soviet architecture and art and this definitely doesn’t exist in copious amounts in Astana for very obvious reasons. But, you can find a few remnants.

The following few are things the art and history-lover might enjoy while looking for things to do in Astana.

National Museum of the Republic of Kazakhstan

It is bad for me to put this on this list because I haven’t actually been there. I planned on it this past trip but just never got around to it and already planned a return trip knowing I’d do it then.

I have started learning quite a bit about the Silk Road history of Kazakhstan which pretty much took place in the southern part of the country and this museum houses a fair bit from that era.

I really want to go there and dig deeper into Kazakhstan’s history as it is one of my favorite countries.

The building is also a gem for modern architecture lover.

You can find the National Museum of the Republic of Kazakhstan at Tauelsyzdyk Avenue 54 in Astana. To find out additional information, check out their website.

Go on a Hunt for Soviet Mosaics

Talk about endangered. Soviet mosaics didn’t exist in Astana (formerly Tselinograd) ubiquitously because the city was a tiny mark on a map during Soviet times.

It didn’t become Kazakhstan’s capital city until 1997. Fortunately, the train station won’t let mosaic lovers down.

There are four just hanging around the station’s exterior waiting to be photographed. And one that takes me to Baikonur.

There are also a couple of mosaics in the Saryarka district that have been saved and transplanted to a newer building. They represent space and print.

But go on a hunt… see what you stumble upon. There has to be something else out there. And one day I’m determined to find it.

Admire New Astana Street Art

Last year, Astana celebrated its 20th birthday as a city and being the Kazakh capital. And as a result, street artists from across the world came to spread their creativity to the facades and sides of buildings all over the city.

I loved walking around and finding random street art in Astana.

It really spiced up this somewhat sterile city. You can actually read more about each work of art at Urban Art Astana’s Instagram page.

They also give the locations of where to find each (although I realized they didn’t always correlate with the map well.

Day Trips from Astana

There are plenty of day-trips from Astana to keep you occupied if you’re looking to get outside of the city a bit. While I have only been on one day-trip from Astana, I am planning to do plenty more.

This past trip, I had planned Karaganda (second time), Temirtau, Borovoe, and Stepnogorsk. I only went to Borovoe.

But I am going to list Stepnogorsk below as well for good measure and will update with photos when I finally make it.

Borovoe

I went to Lake Borovoe with a tour for a long day trip and it was such an incredible experience. I was extremely shocked to see such scenery close to Astana which is completely flat and barren.

The drive out there was not all that long and once you get a bit north of Astana the views take you from steppe to forests and trees. It is really remarkable to witness it (just another reason to love Kazakhstan!)

Once at Borovoe, or Burabay National Park, you can hike, go onto the lake by boat or by swimming, and just chill out.

The area has Soviet sanatoriums and luxury hotels and the landscape is simply breathtaking and surrounded by beautiful pines. If you’re in Astana, definitely plan a trip to Borovoe.

Stepnogorsk

I was so stoked to go to Stepnogorsk but I kept getting more and more behind with work and eventually I just canceled my intent to go there and never went.

The reason I was so keen to go there was that the city was once a secret Soviet city.

Not even closed… secret. It was initially called Tselinograd-25 and was later changed to Makinsk-2 and it is known for being a biochemical manufacturing city (as well as nuclear).

I will 100% be going there next time I am in Kazakhstan. It can be done as a day trip from Astana or you can stay overnight there.

Miscellaneous Things to Do in Astana

There are so many more things to do in Astana that I didn’t have time for, but here are two that I really enjoyed and recommend travelers to do when in Astana.

Take a Stroll on the Promenade

The promenade in Astana will take you along the Yesil River and you have a chance to experience clean air, modern architecture, and quite a few eateries and bars that are energetic during the summer months.

This is also the area where the Fish Bridge begins.

Walk Through Saryarka

Saryarka is an old district in Astana on the right bank. I walked through it years ago, but it was so cold that it didn’t last long.

I dedicated multiple days to exploring the neighborhood this past trip and I loved being able to see the mixture of old, Soviet architecture against the new, modern structures that decorate Astana’s skyline today.

Have you been to Astana? What things to do in Astana are recommended by you?