Kazakhstan

Are you looking for the best things to do in Shymkent, Kazakhstan? This guide will give you details for what to do in Shymkent!

During my time living in Kazakhstan last year, I made it my mission to go to Shymkent to see what the third largest Kazakh city and Silk Road hub had going on in modern times. 

I had planned to leave my job there a couple of weeks early and take an overnight train from Almaty to the city.  One thing led to another and I ended up doing a quick run through Osh, Kyrgyzstan and then had a ticket booked to get away from Central Asia by flying to Istanbul.

If you have been a long-time reader of my blog, you know what transpired from that mess.  But, I never made it to Shymkent.  I have a lot of regret for that, but it was out of my control much of the time as I had to travel out of Kazakhstan to Kyrgyzstan every other week for a visa run (yay for Kazakh government upping the visa-free days from 15 to 30 for travelers!)  Nevertheless, Shymkent remains on my mind.

So, imagine my excitement when an American soccer player named Kaelyn Korte messaged me and told me that she was living and playing professional soccer in… Shymkent?!  While I never actually made it to the city, she is here to tell you about 7 awesome things to do in Shymkent, Kazakhstan after a brief introduction to the city.

Before going into what to do in Shymkent, you should probably know a little bit about Shymkent.  The Kazakh city is located in southern Kazakhstan, pretty close to the border of Uzbekistan.  Until 1993, the city was referred to as Chimkent.  This region of Kazakhstan is the most densely populated and the city of Shymkent is just shy of 1 million inhabitants.

Shymkent played a crucial role in Silk Road history as it was a caravanserai to protect that Silk Road town of Sayram which was located about ten kilometers east.  Destroyed several times, including once by Genghis Khan, the city of Shymkent always persevered and the city’s name became synonymous with ‘kumis’ – a fermented mare’s milk that is popular in many Central Asian countries.

Today, Shymkent is known as one of the most Kazakh cities in Kazakhstan as the Kazakh language is spoken ubiquitously in comparison to other cities where the Russian language still dominates.

Indulge in the Local Food Scene

Food in Shymkent is amazing. Any restaurant on Tripadvisor won’t let you down but my personal favorites are Madlen, Bar Villa, and Eldorado. The meals are very reasonably priced and the mojitos are amazing. Highly recommended.

Madlen:  Madlen is a chain of restaurants located exclusively in Shymkent.  You can find a variety of food there ranging from fresh salads to pizza and pasta.  They also serve coffee and tea.  To find out more, including where their locations are, check out their website.

Bar Villa:  This spacious restaurant is popular among its international clientele and has a menu ranging from pasta to local dishes to global favorites.  Bar Villa is aesthetically pleasing and a hotspot in Shymkent.  You can find it at Zheltoksan 9/2.

El Dorado:  Another local favorite, El Dorado serves a variety of food from pizza to salads.  You can locate El Dorado at Tauke-Khan 82.

Interact with the Locals

Look for local pickup soccer games at around 1800-1900 when the children get out of school.  They love to practice their English and are very welcoming to foreigners.  Usually, any field near an elementary school will have a game going, don’t be shy to jump in!

Peruse the City at Night

Walk the streets along the Mega Center and Plaza at night. You never know what you will come across. Anything from late-night karaoke to small stands where locals sell their handmade crafts (perfect gifts for souvenirs). For those interested in photography, the water fountains light up in various colors making for some great long exposure shots.

Bazar Samal

The Bazar Samal is an incredibly vibrant market area. It is a great place to get fresh fruit and vegetables as well as see what everyday life is like for most Shymkent natives. Tourists are very welcomed and the atmosphere is incredibly unique.

The Bazar Samal is located on the edge of Shymkent close to the Samal Bus Station.  You can find the Bazar Samal on Ryskulov.  It is the largest bazaar in the city and sells millions of items.  The Bazar Samal is open from 0800-2000 Tuesdays through Sundays.

Fantasy World Park

The Fantasy World park is filled with so much life. It’s best to go in the late evening when everything is lit up. The roller rink is definitely a hot spot and it’s fun to watch the experienced skaters show off. There are several rides, games, and amazing food stands to splurge on.

Satisfy your Sweet Tooth

Kazakhstan chocolates and desserts are a must. If you have a sweet tooth there are several places you can find to satisfy your cravings. Don’t be afraid to ask natives (most likely using a translator) where the best place is to buy sweets. Often times the hidden hole in the wall places are just as good as any high-end restaurant.

Biik Kazygurk

Last but not least, watch Biik Kazygurk, the Shymkent women’s professional team. They are the top women’s team in Kazakhstan and compete in the UEFA Champions League.  You can find their schedule here.

<photo provided by Kaelyn Korte>

Thanks so much, Kaelyn for taking us on a trip to your new city!  It was fun to see your favorite things to do in Shymkent, Kazakhstan and it makes me desperately pine to get back to Central Asia and explore it deeply.  To read more from Kaelyn and her travels and life in Kazakhstan, check out her Instagram or Facebook page.

Are you looking for the best coffee in Almaty? This guide has some of the best Almaty cafes to put on your itinerary!

When I traveled to Almaty back in the day on my 2013-2014 trip, good coffee was limited.  It was nearly non-existent.  What I have learned about the Kazakh culture capital is that there is a distinct difference between a good cafe and good coffee. 

Almaty does a cafe better than almost any other city in the world.  These cafes have mediocre to decent coffee, tasty salads, and also double as a nightlife spot.

I never really went to bars and pubs when I lived there; you could always find me at a cafe.  On the other hand, Almaty’s coffee scene isn’t superb.  It is growing, but it still leaves a bit to be desired.  You can’t really blame the lackadaisical growth of specialty coffee in the city- locals love sweet, syrupy coffees.

Who am I to come in and state they should be drinking something else?  Nevertheless, the first thing I did when I arrived in Almaty (when living there) was hunt down cafes with good coffee.  I probably visited forty different cafes during my time in Almaty, but I can assure you that most did not have palatable coffee if you’re into specialty coffee.  The following cafes have the best coffee in Almaty, Kazakhstan.  Please feel free to chime in with your favorites in the comments section.

DOM

Almaty’s best coffee.  This was the first cafe I hit up upon arriving in Almaty as I saw that they had their own roastery inside.  I figured that someone in-house knew coffee if they were roasting their own beans.  They certainly did and I found the baristas to be surprisingly knowledgeable for a cafe that does it all.  DOM is a bar, cafe, restaurant, coworking space, meeting place, etc.  It is huge and it really offers so much to customers.

The first day I went, I found the interior to be slightly pretentious and I was scared of making it my regular spot as I wasn’t sure what kind of clientele it would attract.  However, I found out really quickly that it was perfect.  I eventually started going here daily and I even took my friends there to co-work toward the end of my stint in Almaty.  I miss their tabbouleh salad and flat whites like crazy.

Go there for:  any coffee.  All of it is good.  I usually opted for their flat white as I would make my own black coffee back at the place I was staying.

You can find DOM at Dostyk Ave 42 in Almaty.  To reach DOM via the metro, take it to either Almaly or Abay.  To find out more information, including their opening hours, check out their Facebook page.

PINCH

*Will be updating this soon as I am hearing mixed information about whether or not PINCH is still open.  

PINCH opened at the beginning of my time in Almaty.  I actually found this cafe on Instagram as it is super “Instagrammable”.  Little known irrelevant fact- Kazakhs love social media and being featured in places… so you can always find the latest hip spots by searching on the good ol’ IG. 

I was working from cafes one day and decided to check it out as it was a bit of a trek from my usual haunts.  I went inside and fell in love with the place.  The design, backed by Vesna Group, is flawless and incredibly cool and colorful.

I went here numerous times while in Almaty.  While their coffee wasn’t amazing, it was still drinkable and I could always pair it with a crisp and fresh salad.  They also have fast and free wifi.  One evening, I had a meeting and I was sitting in DOM (listed above) and there was a loud party so I had to move cafes abruptly to find a quiet space to work from.

I went to Honest Coffee, which has HONESTly horrific coffee and also found HONESTly bad wifi.  So I ran to PINCH, which wasn’t particularly nearby, and they accommodated me in a quiet area, turned off the music, and allowed me to have my hour and a half meeting in the cafe.  My friend, Jenny, was in town from the US for work and she met me afterward for a bottle of wine.  Nevertheless, PINCH is a great cafe that deserves a visit if you’re in Almaty.

Go there for:  a cappuccino.  Then stick around and enjoy a salad and beer.

You can find PINCH at Kunaev St 86 in Almaty.  To reach PINCH via the metro, take it to Almaly or Zhibek Zholy.  To find out more information, including their opening hours, check out their Facebook page.

Urban Coffee

This cafe is my second favorite for tasty coffee in Almaty.  Located on Satpaev, Urban Coffee has a cool interior, fast wifi, and really delicious food.  While DOM ended up closer to me when I moved locations in Almaty, Urban Coffee was my hotspot initially as it was located close to my office and where I was staying. 

The decor is a bit edgy and a bit rustic.  There is also a wall with comic characters and superheroes that add a pinch of personality to the cafe.  Kazakhs really have a knack for being ingenious when it comes to design, let me tell you.

I always ordered a cappuccino here and it came with very little foam.  I’d like to think it was more like a flat white than a proper cappuccino, and that made me happy.  They also have a really tasty beetroot salad with Danish feta that I always ordered when there.

Go there for:  a cappuccino.  Enjoy a beetroot, apple (Almaty is the home of apples, ya know…), and Danish feta salad for me!

You can find Urban Coffee at Satpaev St 4a in Almaty.  To reach Urban Coffee via the metro, take it to Abay and walk up the hill toward the mountains a bit.  To find out more information, including their opening hours, check out their Facebook page.

Bowler Coffee Roasters

* I have seen been to Bowler a few times and this is a sensational place!  GO THERE!

I am so ashamed to say that I never made it here.  I passed it frequently based on its proximity to my accommodation, but I was always in a hurry and never had a chance to pop in.  I am simply placing it on here as I have heard from several people that they have good coffee.  I will be checking it out next time I am in Almaty for sure.

You can find Bowler Coffee Roasters at Kabanbai Batyr St 65 in Almaty.  You can reach Bowler by taking the metro to Almaly.  To find out more information, including their opening hours, check out their Facebook page.

Social Coffee

I contemplated putting Social Coffee on this list.  While I think their coffee is better than average, it was terribly inconsistent when I went there on the few occasions.  However, I do recommend Social Coffee to cafe lovers as the cafe is so quintessential Almaty it hurts.  It is pleasantly decorated, sells decent food and drinks, and has fashion shows on TV screens.  While this may sound mad to some, fashion shows on TV screens in cafes is pretty standard for Almaty.

I have seen this in bars and pretentious clubs in other cities, albeit never in cafes.  But in Almaty, you get to watch pretty guys and gals strut their stuff down the runway while you sip on an espresso, or eat a curry.  Yep, my favorite Indian restaurant shows fashion shows too.  Anyway, Social Coffee is a cool place for cafe lovers to check out.

Go there for:  the cappuccino.  Then grab a pretentious cocktail and channel your inner Naomi Campbell.

You can find Social Coffee at Satpaev St 10 in Almaty.  You can reach Social Coffee by taking the metro to Abay and walking up the hill to Satpaev toward the mountains.  To find out more information, including their opening hours, check out their Facebook page.

JumpinGoat Coffee

I heard about this place from a friend of mine and decided to take a journey all the way over to Baikonur metro station to check it out.  It is located underground and is a small and practical little cafe.  They just opened a new location across the city (Panfilava 110 corner of Buganbi Batir), evidently, which I am sure makes just as tasty coffee as the original. 

JumpinGoat is owned by an American from Georgia who I had a blast chatting with when I stopped by when living there.  His goal was to capitalize on a gap in the market for good coffee in Almaty.  The city is saturated with similar style cafes, but really was just missing that place to get a delicious to-go coffee.  Job well done, JumpinGoat.

Go there for:  a black to-go coffee.  They offer many filter and pourover options.

You can find JumpinGoat Coffee at Baytursynov St 78/1 in Almaty.  To reach JumpinGoat, just take the metro to Baikonur station and it is right as you exit the station, but still underground.  You can’t miss it.  To find out more information about them, including their opening hours, check out their Facebook page.  Sadly, I have no pictures of my coffee at JumpinGoat.

Double A Coffee

I stumbled upon Double A Coffee when I was going underground to the Zhibek Zholy metro station with my partner (he came to visit) during a major Almaty blizzard. 

I was cold and craving some caffeine, so I decided to give this small stand in the metro station a go and hoped that they could at least provide me with a black coffee that wouldn’t be worthy of a premature visit to a trashcan.

I must say that I was really impressed with their Americano.  It was served to me by the sweetest girl who was eager to practice her English with me.  If you’re at Zhibek Zholy and in need of a cup of joe, grab one here!

Go here for:  their Americano.

You can reach Double A Coffee at Panfilov St in the Zhibek Zholy metro station in Almaty.

Almaty has a vibrant cafe scene… and while the specialty coffee scene is a bit behind, you can still find a good cup of coffee in Almaty.  Not every cafe listed above is a hub for specialty coffee, on the other hand; some merely just offer good coffee or a great experience.  While everyone has their favorites, I can assure you that I did try well over forty cafes when in Almaty.

Some of the ones that were suggested to me were Sova, Nedelka, Coffeedelia, Traveller’s Coffee (actually the worst coffee I have ever had in my life), Coffeeroom, Milk and Honey, Honest Coffee, Double Coffee, My Cafe, Daily Coffee, Cafeteria, Coffee Inn, United Coffee, Central Cafe, Biskvit, and many, many more.

I tried all of those listed and I really loved almost all of them as cafes, but the coffee was really sweet or not the main attraction (except at Sova).  In fact, I tried many of them on my first trip to Almaty a few years back before moving there years later.

Almaty is changing and getting hipper by the day.  More and more cafes are opening their doors and I expect to grow this list on my next trip to the city.  If you have any suggestions, please throw them in the comments section!  I will soon be coming out with a cafe guide to the city which will include a variety of places, regardless of how I felt about their coffee.

Click here for my one day in Almaty itinerary.

Note:  When I am on the road, I always bring a Keep Cup with me and an Aeropress with all of its accessories.  While I love supporting local cafes and independent businesses, it can get expensive after a while if you travel as much as I do!  You can shop my travel coffee kit below, including stainless steel straws for cold brews.

When I traveled to Kazakhstan nearly three years ago, I never really left the cities.  I went to Kostanay, Astana, Karaganda, and Almaty.  

I was here at the end of December and throughout a great portion of January and I just wasn’t keen on exploring nature in the frigid temperatures I was welcomed with.  In fact, because I flew to almost every destination in Central Asia,  the only time I saw anything other than a city in Kazakhstan was on the short train ride from Astana to Karaganda.  

I saw the endlessly flat steppe of the country along with a tractor or two.  Here I am, almost three years later and back in Kazakhstan, and I have vowed to see as much of the local area’s nature as possible.  

To start things off with a bang, I organized the first trip to be to Charyn Canyon, or Kazakhstan’s mini Grand Canyon.  This was the perfect day trip from Almaty.

I had someone organize this trip for me and I actually have no idea of the name of the company I went with.  I do apologize for that.  It was the cheapest way to get to the canyon and I wasn’t looking to spend an arm and a leg getting there (I ended up paying around 15 Euros after a commission to the person booking).  

The ‘tour’ was in Russian and despite being told that there would be a variety of nationalities on the trip with me, it turned out to be merely Russian-speaking people with extremely sparse English skills.  It was completely fine as I was only on this trip for a little nature and scenery.

About Charyn Canyon

Charyn Canyon is situated very close to the Chinese border.  The canyon sits in Charyn National Park (established 2004) in the Charyn River Valley and is around 80km (50mi) long.  

It is often referred to as the mini Grand Canyon or the Grand Canyon’s little brother.  There are a variety of eye-catching colors on display throughout the canyon and it really is hard to not ‘oooh and ahhh’ every time you turn the corner.  

The colors also change with the sky causing a kaleidoscope of colors right in front of your eyes!  Every photo I took looked like it came from a different place at a different time of the day.  

While this may be the Grand Canyon’s smaller sidekick, I can’t help but think that there is something more spectacular about it as it virtually hosts zero tourists.  Aside from the group I was with, I saw maybe ten other people the entire day.  

Charyn Canyon is actually comprised of five different canyons: Valley of Castles, Temirlik Canyon, Yellow Canyon, Red Canyon, and Bestamak Canyon.  If I had a car, this would not have been a day trip- there is still so much I haven’t seen of the canyon.

Our bus arrived and I was bursting with alacrity and was ready to explore.  I was under the impression that we were just going to walk to the river and walk back up.  An inveterate flip-flop wearer, I almost donned a pair for the trip since the temperature was a blissful 20C / 68F.  

As memories of Kazbegi flashed through my mind, I swapped them out for a pair of Nikes as I have temporarily left my hiking boots in Germany.  Best decision ever (to most people this would be referred to as common sense).

At the Canyon

Luckily, we were able to move about the Canyon at our own pace.  There was a lot of selfie action going on, in addition to odd poses with rocks, from the other travelers, so I made it to the bottom pretty quickly and was able to enjoy the river with a few others.  

I sat and marveled at the landscape for a bit before heading to a tiny and quiet cafe at the base.  I ordered a beer and the only other traveler sitting there, a Muscovite named Valerii, ordered us both a glass of kumis (fermented mare’s milk) as we attempted to make conversation with my modicum of Russian skills.  

I also failed to inform him that I absolutely abhor kumis (but I strangely like shubat, or fermented camel’s milk).  He was continuously trying to explain something to me regarding my beer, but I never understood what he was trying to say.  He finished up his plov and we headed back to meet up with our group, who I saw was scaling up the canyon via the steep rocks.  What the hell?

Due to the language barrier, I completely missed the fact that we were walking down the canyon and climbing the rocks back up.  Apparently, Valerii was trying to inform me of this as I was casually drinking a beer (evidently, he was telling me that drinking the beer was a bad idea and I’m sure I just smiled and pretended I understood him).  I have been petrified of heights for a very long time and rock climbing is not really my cup of tea.  

I am limber and don’t have an issue climbing… but when you’re crying and shaking the entire time, it makes for a scary experience.  Fortunately, everyone motivated me and helped me out which calmed my nerves quite a bit.  I made it up alive.  We had a lot more hiking and scaling to do, but the difficult part was over.  And I didn’t die.  Woohoo.

I am glad I faced my fears because the views were some of the best I’ve ever seen anywhere in the world.  The whole experience was magical.  

The canyon’s landscape is rife with color, giant gerbils (not a rodent fan either), and a feeling of freedom and empowerment that just can not be expressed in words.  We hiked and stuck around until the sun started descending below the horizon.  The entire day was extraordinary.

Heading Home

We left the national park and made our way to our short pit-stop in Kokpek (a small village with a population of 74 about forty-five minutes to an hour on the way back to Almaty from the canyon).  

We had previously stopped there in the morning and the same locals were around and said hello to us again.  We then made the long journey back to Almaty and arrived at about 9:30pm.

Final Thoughts about Charyn Canyon

The day was long but just brilliant.  It left me with an insatiable desire to see more of this stunning country I am currently calling home.  I plan to return to Charyn Canyon with my partner when he arrives in a few weeks and hopefully it will greet us with mild temperatures and decent weather.  

If we are lucky, we will get to experience the canyon as well as to travel to Kolsai Lakes during the off season.  (Update- I ended up going to Kaindy Lake a couple of years later!)  Fingers crossed.  If you have any suggestions of nature trips around the Almaty region, please let me know.  I don’t have the time to spend traveling too far but would love to see more of what Kazakhstan has to offer, even if it is just locally.

My friend, Katherine (from Almaty) is a travel blogger, photographer, and videographer here in Kazakhstan and is the founder of the popular website Photosafari.kz.  She and her team made an incredible video highlighting the best of Kazakhstan’s nature.  Please check it out here!

To see more posts from my travels in Kazakhstan, you can click here.

I arrived back in Almaty, Kazakhstan in early May for two months with the mindset that I was going to work, work, work and travel around Central Asia very little..  The trip I had planned with a friend for journalists and photographers out to the western part of Kazakhstan had fallen through at the hands of delayed funding but I still had my sights set on spending spring and early summer in Kazakhstan, especially in my old home of Almaty.

I had never seen Kazakhstan nature outside of winter and even then, I saw it from afar and never explored it up close.  I was going to use my two months in Almaty to work and then occasionally venture into the varied and dramatic Kazakhstan landscape that I had long dreamt of seeing. 

A lot of changes took place, including the inability to access this website with ease and a last minute trip to Kyrgyzstan for longer than initially planned, but I did finally get to see some of the nature around Almaty.

And it was beyond grand.  One of my favorite stops was Butakovskiy Waterfall, a waterfall near the city and the perfect Almaty day trip.  This recaps my time getting lost on my way to finding the Butakovskiy Waterfall and how you can hike there on your trip to Almaty, too!

About Butakovskiy Waterfall in Almaty

Butakovskiy Waterfall, or Butakovskiy Vodopad, is a waterfall located close to Almaty in the Zailiysky Alatau in the Butakovskoe Gorge.  It is the perfect place to add to your Almaty itinerary. To reach the waterfall, it is about a two-hour hike there and a two-hour hike back, depending on your starting point. 

If you read below where I detail my experience, you will realize that two hours it is not… if you get lost or are just slow in general.

The waterfall is stated to only be 15 meters tall, which everyone who has visited can contest is incorrect.  It is at least 25-30 meters tall.  There are actually two waterfalls in the area.  The first one is the one I hiked to and the second is an additional 1.5 hours of hiking. 

Even if I had wanted to continue going, it was dusk as I finally made it out to the waterfall and I had to turn around quickly.

How to Get to Butakovskiy Waterfall

Since Wego.ae has cheap deals on hotels in Almaty, I was able to secure a booking at a place that is almost right beside the bus stop that takes you up to the mountains and to Medeu.  The bus number is #12 and the fare is around $.30 – $.50. 

You can catch the bus in a few locations, including the corner of Kurmangazy and Dostyk.  Because I was staying around Dostyk Plaza, I caught it there on the side of Dostyk Avenue that the shopping center is on.

The bus will obviously be going south toward the direction of the mountains.  Medeu is the final stop on this bus and you will need to get off there.  The journey will take around 30 minutes or so. 

If you’re going on the weekend, expect this bus to be packed with other people.  You may want to catch it at its starting point near Hotel Kazakhstan if you are wanting to have a seat on it.

Once you get to Medeu, you will need to walk down the hill slightly until you see a fence and a path to the right.  Follow the water canals for a while.  The road will be driveable but it will eventually turn into a place that can only be accessed by foot. 

Once you see a couple of large houses in front of you, you will want to follow the path in between them.  If people continue on, don’t worry, this doesn’t mean you’re going the wrong way.  They are likely going to Furmanov Peak.  You will see a sign in Russian that states Butakovskiy Waterfall is on your route.

You will go over Komissarovsky Pass, a relatively easy pass that is about 2200 meters, as you work your way to Butakovskoe Gorge.  This is where it may get a little interesting.  You will walk alongside a stream and see a few rusty huts. 

Signs are only sparingly placed, so just keep following the path and eventually, you will end up in a small village where there will likely be signs of life and other tourists present.

From the village, you will take a right at the end of the road and you will eventually pass a horse stable and restaurant to your left.  Continue on up the road and you’ll see signs pointing you to Butakovskiy Waterfall.  You still have a ways to go. 

You’ll walk through a valley and the path will veer a bit left.  Follow this until it takes you to a river.  You will need to cross this river (it isn’t deep).  Use the rocks to guide you or a log to get across.

From here, you will have to climb up rocks for about fifteen to twenty minutes.  This is the area with the most potential for hazards and mishaps and Kazakhstan nature can be pretty unforgiving.  Be very careful and navigate slowly and confidently.  Once you’re at the top of this area, you will continue through another valley and the waterfall will be hidden at first to the left.  Eventually, you will hear and see it.

You can take a path to the bottom (which you could have followed the entire time if you walked through the rocks and the river) of the waterfall or you can stay on the same path you’re on to get a view from higher.  I did both.  There is a bit of climbing in this area so, again, be careful and use your best judgment.

You can return back to the village and catch a bus or ride from there instead of going back via Komissarovsky Pass.

My Time Getting Lost at Butakovskiy

I had been excited for days about my trip to Butakovskiy Waterfall.  I had mapped out my route and actually decided to go at it alone since the hike was easy and I just wanted to listen to music and enjoy the scenery.  I wasn’t pressed for time and set off early that morning catching the bus up to Medeu.  Once at Medeu, I started the walk toward the waterfall.

Around three hours into the hike, the weather was getting cold and temperamental and I decided to just check with another hiker to ensure that I was going the right way.  I met a lovely lady named Aida, who runs Steppe Spirit on Instagram, and she laughed and informed me I was on my way to Furmanov Peak, one of Almaty’s premiere hiking destinations (and one I was too out of shape to successfully complete).

I begrudgingly turned around and she guided me at least an hour and a half back to the area where I was to turn to head to the waterfall.  I had wondered why the hike had been fairly challenging up to that point… and I finally understood why!  I said my goodbyes to her and started my way toward Butakovskiy Waterfall.

I was a bit shocked that there weren’t more people hiking from this starting point to the falls.  I remember seeing maybe one other person for the duration of about two hours.  It was kind of nice, but as someone who isn’t super experienced hiking, it was also a bit scary as I shouldn’t have been hiking alone in the first place. 

I was sliding around the mud and on gravel in certain areas around Komissarovsky Pass and was able to find myself a makeshift trekking pole from a tree branch (tip- bring your own!) which was extremely helpful.

I eventually ended up at the bottom of the valley and was feeling a bit ill.  I had brought plenty of water, but I hadn’t taken along any food and I didn’t recognize any of the greenery around me and wasn’t confident enough to eat any of it.  I carried on after a short break and was very relieved when I arrived in the small village and found a restaurant.

At the restaurant, I ordered a coffee and french fries.  Feeling refreshed, I realized it was getting pretty late and I had no idea how much further the waterfall was and if I was even in condition to reach it at all.  I didn’t give up and headed out toward the mountains again. 

After two hours, I arrived at the waterfall.  I had the place all to myself at that moment and it was a really empowering feeling as I had almost given up ten times throughout the hike.  It wasn’t the most difficult of hikes, but I am out of shape and I was alone for it.  I soaked up the Kazakhstan nature and the spray from the waterfall and just basked in the happiness of finally seeing some of the wild landscape of the country I had once called home.

I didn’t have much daylight left, so I celebrated a successful hike (that should have taken only about two hours but took over ten!), met a few people on the way back who were still trying to reach the falls, and ended up back in the village.

Getting Back to Almaty from the Waterfall

There are usually marshrutkas and taxis waiting to take people back from the village into Almaty.  Interestingly enough, I met a guy hiking who took a few pictures of me and sent them to his family stating that he met an American girl on the hike.  His family had been sitting in the restaurant as there was a newborn baby along with them.

When I arrived back in the village, the family had been going to their car to leave the mountains earlier than the others and recognized me from the photos the guy sent.  They immediately offered me a ride into the city for no-charge and then invited me to dinner with them.  Kazakhstan hospitality can be so wonderful.

What to Bring for the Hike

If you are backpacking through Kazakhstan, you may already have plenty of the things you would need for the hike such as the right hiking shoes, apparel, trekking poles, etc.  Here are some tips for the hike and things I think you need to take along for the journey (you can also shop the post at the end).

Reusable Water Bottle or Jug (already filled with water):  There are quite a few water sources along the way, particularly once you’re climbing the rocks toward the end.  They are all clean and you can just fill your water jug up with some refreshing, mountain water in order to stay hydrated.  Click to see the Klean Kanteen I use.

10L Dry Bag from The Friendly Swede:  Almaty’s weather, especially in the mountains, is unpredictable and you can easily see snow, rain, and sun all in the same day most of the year.  This dry bag is something I carry around religiously and it protects my camera equipment from anything the weather gods send my way.  Click to see the Friendly Swede dry bag set I use. 

Keen Targhee Mid-Waterproof Hiking Boots:  I’d be lost without these hiking boots.  They have been on five continents and in countless countries with me.  They were ideal for this hike.  Click to see the Keen Targhee boots I use.

Russian dictionary or phrasebook:  You never know who you may meet along the way.  And you never know if they will be able to speak English or not.  If you have questions, it is always good to have a dictionary on you or an app downloaded with offline access as you will not have service in the mountains around Almaty.  Click to shop a Lonely Planet Russian Phrasebook.

Food:  I made the mistake of bringing nothing for the day.  I recommend you don’t do the same.

Trekking Poles:  Better safe than sorry with hikes in the mountains around Almaty because you never know what to expect or how the weather has been.  While it may be sunny when you’re in the city, never expect the same in the mountains.  It is cold and often rainy or muddy.  Trekking poles will be your safety net. 

Lee ND Filters:  If you’re interested in photographing the Butakovskiy Waterfall during the day and want to take a long exposure, you will likely need a good ND filter to make this happen. 

Lee Filters are some of the best on the market and they will be your best friend when photographing this waterfall and others.  Be sure to have a tripod and remote for best results.  Click to shop Lee ND filters.

Patagonia Fleece:  I definitely recommend bringing a fleece or something that can keep you warm against the mountain air that can be rather brisk and chilly at times, no matter what time of the year you’re visiting the waterfall.  I like Patagonia fleeces because the company is ethical and the clothing is high-quality. 

Where to Stay in Almaty, Kazakhstan

I always stay at Parasat Hostel when in Almaty.  They are conveniently located and the owner of them is outstanding and really a great guy.  If you’re looking to book a hotel in Almaty, be sure to check out the location and ensure you’re actually in Almaty. 

I always recommend people to stay around Dostyk Avenue.  You will be centralized and close enough to metros, parks, the incredible Kazakhstan nature, and plenty of grocery stores.

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