13 Things to Do in Khiva, Uzbekistan (& 2 You Can Skip!)

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Are you considering a trip to Uzbekistan and are looking for the best things to do in Khiva? I have put together a useful guide that will walk you through the can’t-miss sites, but also take you to a few lesser-known gems that I enjoyed on my trip to the city.

Khiva is situated in the middle of the Khorezm region and is fairly different from the other Silk Road destinations in Uzbekistan. Whether or not you want to make the journey out there is up to you, but I definitely want to ensure you make the most of your adventure out west if you do have it on your itinerary.

Before diving into the top things to do in Khiva, I am giving a little overview of what the Itchan Kala is and how to gain access to some of Khiva’s most iconic landmarks and attractions. I also discuss the possibility of taking a city tour, which I think is a fantastic idea for first-time visitors.

And at the end of this guide, I touch upon two places I think may be worth skipping, but I describe in more detail so you can determine whether or not they are something you’d be interested in.

Do you have any questions about what to do in Khiva? Or did I miss an essential in this guide? Let me know in the comments. Thanks!

First Things First: Understanding the Itchan Kala

Before I dive into the actual things to do in Khiva, you need to understand how the Itchan Kala works. The Itchan Kala is the area of Khiva inside the ‘city walls’.

In order to access this part of the city, you will need a ticket**. This ticket is 250,000 UZS (around $20), and it is valid for two days. There is no one-day ticket available. You can obtain this ticket at the East or West gate. Credit cards are accepted.

Almost everything within the Itchan Kala is included in this ticket. The sites that you will need to pay extra for are:

• Pahlavan Mahmoud Mausoleum (100,000 UZS)
• Climbing the Islom Khodja Minaret (100,000 UZS)
• Ak Sheikh-Bobo (the Kuhna Ark watchtower; 100,000 UZS)
• Walking the city walls (40,000 UZS)

Should You Take a City Tour in Khiva?

Truthfully, it depends on the number of days you have. I do think it is a good option for getting an overview of the Itchan Kala as it can be quite overwhelming (and difficult to navigate) for first-timers visiting Khiva.

I took a tour with Anna Pasha, a renowned local guide who grew up in the Itchan Kala, while there and it was so valuable because she knows the city WELL. She could give me any dates I needed, as well as some tips that were helpful when writing this blog post for future visitors.

The best way to contact her is to send her a WhatsApp message at +998 91 436 37 80. She speaks English, French, Japanese, Russian, and Uzbek. Her family actually owns Tapas Restaurant and Mirza Boshi Teahouse (along with some newer hotels in the Itchan Kala), two of the top places to eat in the city.

Best Things to Do in Khiva

1. Photograph the vibrant Kalta Minor Minaret.

The Kalta Minor Minaret (sometimes written Kaltaminor) is easily the most recognizable landmark of Khiva. Situated in front of the Muhammad Amin Khan Madrasah (now the Orient Star Hotel), it was initially planned to be the largest minaret in the world.

Despite initial planning of around 80 meters, it only ended up being 29 meters due to the Khan’s death in a battle in 1855. Anyway, this minaret is striking and warrants a visit (and many photos!).

It may be difficult to score a photo of it without others in it, as there are several vendors handing out traditional Chugirma (hats) for tourists to pose in, but if you hang around long enough, you can get on.

Alternatively, you can have a seat at the nearby Tea House Bir Gumbaz, which offers a stellar view of it. The only issue with Bir Gumbaz is that it is kind of a disappointment in terms of food and coffee (and service). I have it at the bottom of this guide as a place to skip… but if you want that view and are patient with service, it can reward you.

2. Enjoy dinner on a terrace in the Itchan Kala.

There are quite a few restaurants inside the Itchan Kala (old town walls) and one of my favorite things to do in Khiva is to have dinner on a terrace there!

The best terrace restaurant in Khiva, in my opinion, is Arxi Terrasa. It didn’t have a ton of reviews and seemed to be a bit newer, but it had the best food in the old town of all the places I ate (I tried 5 spots).

They have a solid menu with local dishes like Shivit Osh, but also some crowd pleasers like manti and samsa. I ordered their Ghul Khonim, a ‘lazy’ dumpling, while my friend tried their Shivit Osh (official dill-hater here). It was all superb.

Another famous place to grab dinner on a terrace in Khiva is at Terrassa Cafe & Restaurant. This restaurant offers some of the best views in the Itchan Kala, but the food is just mid, in my opinion. I ate there twice and had tea another time. I would avoid the ‘Plov Trio’ they offer as a special and opt for one of their lamb dishes or lule kebab. Their salads, on the other hand, are delicious and make it worth the visit.

For both restaurants, I advise booking ahead of time. You can pop into Terrassa Cafe at the start of your trip and try to book a table (you can do so on the second floor), or you can reach them at +998 94 936 00 18. They were booked about two days out when I went. Arxi is easy to reach by WhatsApp at +998 99 435 06 22. That is how I made a reservation with them.

3. Do a Khiva wood carving workshop with a master.

One of the best things to do in Khiva is to learn one of Uzbekistan’s traditional crafts from a local artisan. I took a wood carving workshop in Khiva right under the Islom Khodja Minaret and it was a blast! And I have a souvenir to take home with me (that I will hide so no one sees how bad I was at wood carving).

The workshop lasted for one hour, and it needs to have 3 people in order to be booked (we were 2 but paid for 3). You will be given a ready-to-carve piece of wood that you will start chiseling at with instructions from the master.

My master was named Umid and his English is a work-in-progress, but we understood each other enough that I was able to produce a nice little souvenir for myself!

The setting is outside and it can be a bit hot in the sun, but our table was behind hanging suzanis in front of the minaret, so I ended up being fine.

I actually wrote an entire review about my wood carving workshop in Khiva that you can read to learn more.

4. Check out the intricate wood pillars at the Juma Mosque.

Speaking of wood carving… oh my goodness, this place was impressive! This large, one-story building has 212 wooden columns inside and every one has a different pattern and design. It used to be a mosque, but now it has been transformed into a wood carving museum.

Juma Mosque translates to ‘Friday’ Mosque and was erected at the end of the 18th century. It is included in your Itchan Kala complex ticket.

5. Order a plate of egg dumplings called Tukhum Barak.

Something I did appreciate about Khiva is that it has some dishes that are unique to it and not traditionally found elsewhere in Uzbekistan.

Tukhum Barak is one of those dishes. These are egg-filled dumplings that originate from the Khorezm region and are something you’ll find somewhat ubiquitously around the Khiva restaurant scene.

Tukhum means egg in Uzbek, and barak means dumpling, and the taste is kind of like an omelet-filled Polish pierogi. I tried these in a few places, but the best ones we had were at Sultan Restaurant (I also tried them in Itchan Kala at Terrassa, but they weren’t as tasty).

6. Walk through the beautiful Kuhna Ark Palace.

When I first arrived in Khiva, I was immediately put on a city tour as part of the group I was with (I went down into Turkmenistan on a group tour). The first place we went was the Kuhna Ark Palace, and I barely remember it. So naturally, I had to make a return trip over there to check it out at my own pace.

Kuhna Ark is actually the large fortified structure you see around Khiva, but the palace and the complex go by the same name.

When there, you’ll see a harem, a summer mosque, and more. The palace was used from the 17-19th centuries and only in summer. You will also find a mint room on site (for coins). This is where money was printed before the Russians arrived in Khiva.

Visiting Kuhna Ark will take a while if you’re interested in the history, so be sure to set aside a bit of time for this as it is one of the main sites of the Itchan Kala. It is included on the Itchan Kala ticket.

7. Learn how to make Shivit Osh at Tea House Mirza Boshi.

Shivit Osh is a dish of noodles made from dill and topped with meat and veggies. Okay, so I loathe dill. It is one of two things I physically can’t eat.

But I decided to take one for the team and learn to make this Khiva dish, mostly because I wanted to still enjoy the dish in a roundabout way without having to consume it at a restaurant. Plus, Anna Pasha (the tour guide I mentioned above) and her family own the restaurant I was doing the Shivit Osh class at, so I didn’t feel bad for not being able to eat it after (she fed me first!).

The history of Shivit Osh is pretty simple. There was an illness going around and the Khan picked some dill from the garden to have a dish made for him and surprise… he was healed! The tradition stuck around and is now Khiva’s most iconic dish.

You can learn to make it by signing up for a Shivit Osh masterclass, where you’ll learn how to make it from start to finish. And, of course, you can enjoy your masterpiece after it’s finished.

The class is 1-hour long and it takes place in Mirza Boshi Tea House (not Tapas Restaurant, which is mentioned on the voucher). You’ll also get to enjoy tea while trying your creation.

This is a great use of time in Khiva and a way to get inside on a hot day!

8. Go to the Toshhovli Palace.

Built between 1830 and 1841 for Allah Kuli Bahadur Khan, the ruler of the Khiva Khanate, the Toshhovli Palace contains three courtyards and more than 260 rooms.

It is easily one of the most impressive places to visit within Itchan Kala. Inside, you’ll find intricately carved wooden columns, blue ceramic tiles, and a lot of imposing decor.

The most interesting part of Toshhovli (also written as Tosh-Hovli or Tash-Khauli)  is the harem. The Khan could have up to 4 wives but many other women were ‘groomed’ (for lack of a better word) by the Khan’s mother and were called contraband. They eventually were introduced to the Khan when ready and met the approval of the mother. You can visit Toshhovli with your Itchan Kala ticket.

9. Stay overnight in a madrasah (turned hotel).

I think I have a new favorite hotel… it is the Polvon-Qori Boutique Hotel and it is in an old madrasah. I LOVED this place (I also loved the second place I stayed in Khiva but this unique accommodation was one of my favorites in Uzbekistan as a whole).

Inside the old Polvon Qori madrasah, there are rooms in a square around a gorgeous courtyard teeming with mulberry trees, young and old. Since the rooms are built with such thick walls, it was an extremely quiet stay. The breakfast was one of my favorites in Uzbekistan (simple, but fresh) and there is even a minaret at the property that you can climb.

This is not the only madrasah-turned-hotel in Khiva. There is also the Orient Star Khiva Hotel by the Kalta Minor minaret. I went inside to check it out and it seemed a little more upscale and like it fit more guests.

I have read positive reviews about Orient Star online, but I loved that Polvon Qori was right outside the Itchan Kala gates. It made for a quieter experience.

10. Have a coffee at Aim Coffee.

I always seek out independent coffee shops when I travel and Khiva was no different. Fortunately, there was a place called Aim Coffee right near my first hotel, so I made a beeline for it to try it out.

Aim Coffee is small and sits in a standalone building and is run by a young man who is friendly and enjoys meeting the tourists. I ordered a medovik cake (delicious) and a flat white (also very delicious and cost 30,000 UZS). They are open daily from 9am to 10pm.

11. Step outside the Itchan Kala and see a Soviet-era mosaic.

Channeling my true self, I set out to find what seemed to be one of the last-standing Soviet-era mosaics in Khiva. It was a short walk away from the Itchan Kala (around 1.4 kilometers), but it was a good way for me to explore beyond the tourist-heavy center.

There are actually two mosaics out here on School #12. They are on the western facade in two different areas. I was rather surprised at how well they have held up, especially in a place where they are a rarity and endure hot, dry summers (maybe that is good for them?).

Anyway, it’s worth the walk if you’re into Soviet-era monumental art. They can be found at 41.3837051, 60.3762949.

12. Take a day trip to nearby fortresses.

The nature surrounding Khiva is pretty remarkable and it is home to several fortresses. While I visited 4 fortresses from Khiva on the way to Nukus, you can visit a few from Khiva if you don’t have a trip to Nukus on your Uzbekistan itinerary.

There are several companies offering trips to the fortresses from Khiva but I used Islambek Travel for my transfers (that included fortresses) and my Aral Sea trip, so I would rather recommend them even though I didn’t do a Khiva-fortresses-Khiva trip (I’m sure it is all the same!).

Islambek Travel offers shared day trips (cheaper) and private ones. The shared option visits Kyzyl Kala, Topraq Kala, and Ayaz Kala with a quick stop at Akchakul Lake. This starts at $20 per person (a seriously fabulous deal). Private day trips are fairly affordable, starting at $49 for three people. They also have trips that will go to 5 fortresses.

I had excellent, safe drivers with them and cannot recommend their services enough.

13. Step inside the elaborate Pahlavan Mahmoud Mausoleum.

A place that was on my list to visit in Khiva was the Pahlavan Mahmoud Mausoleum, easily the most impressive building on the outside to me (hey, it has a teal-tiled roof!). Pahlavan Mahmoud was an Iranian wrestler and poet who lived from 1247 to 1326.

Throughout this time, he gained fame in Khiva because he continued to beat all the men at wrestling. He is revered by locals because one man he came up against was set to be executed if he lost, so Pahlavan Mahmoud intentionally lost.

His mausoleum is remarkably beautiful on the inside as well. It is not included in the Itchan Kala ticket but I still encourage paying the 50,000 UZS to go inside and check it out.

Additional Things for Your Khiva Bucket List

• Take a bread-making class (also takes place at Mirza Boshi Tea House, where I did my Shivit Osh class; my friend did this and enjoyed it… I have made bread in Uzbekistan before, so I didn’t sign up for this)
• Climb the Islom Khodja Minaret (I refrained from doing this since I’m claustrophobic, but if good views are your thing… go for it; tickets are 100,000 UZS and it is open from 9am to 6pm)
• Grab a samsa at Bread & Samsa (located right beside Terrassa Cafe and Restaurant)
• Stop in the Exhibition of Ak-Mechet Mennonites (included in your Itchan Kala ticket)
• Visit the city’s many parks

What to Skip in Khiva

Bir Gumbaz Tea House

I feel kind of bad to list Bir Gumbaz Tea House on my list of places to skip in Khiva but I went there twice and both times were a miss. The first time I visited was with a group and the service was so tragic that one of the group leaders had to take care of serving. The food was terrible.

I went back on my own just for coffee two days later (Bir Gumbaz has such a stellar view of Kalta Minor Minaret) and the coffee had to be ordered multiple times and it came out cold. The woman was lovely, but proceeded to blame the machine and not understand that it was cold until I made her stick a finger in it. She then made another one (took ages) and it was lousy.

Anyway, this place has potential. But don’t waste your time now unless you just want the view. It is open from 9am to 11pm if you opt to visit.

Museum of Applied Arts

After visiting Tashkent’s Museum of Applied Arts, I was pretty stoked to see what was inside the Khiva one. I figured it wouldn’t be as large but it would still be pretty good. It was a bit of a let-down.

The day I went, a huge group of school children came in and I tried to escape the crowds (the halls are very narrow) but I couldn’t. It was like a maze and it nearly gave me a panic attack! It is inside the Kazy-Kalyan Madrasah, so I understand not being able to change the design to be more visitor-friendly.

Anyway, the interior had some unique things like Khorezm ceramics, but for the most part, I don’t think it was worth the visit. It is open from 8am until 6pm and is included in the Itchan Kala ticket, so if you’re very interested in this, maybe it is worth visiting, but for the average person, I would skip.

Do you have any questions about what to do in Khiva for beginners? Let me know your favorite things to see in Khiva in the comments. Thanks!