Housing block in Slavutych, Ukraine

Slavutych, Ukraine: The Soviet City Built for Chernobyl Refugees

I have witnessed the Chernobyl disaster go from being a globally-recognized mass tragedy to a clichéd source of trite tourism where travelers go in with their cameras hugging their hips, all ready to shoot the perfect photo (which has inevitably been taken 3,790 times already that same month) for bragging rights about how they visited such a creepy and dangerous place.  They will leave being able to boast about what an adventurous soul they are for having visited Chernobyl.  They’ll never make mention of the fact that Chernobyl gets well over 10,000 visitors a year.  Furthermore, the travelers will leave knowing nothing more about the place aside from that it was a nuclear disaster and that people died and survivors were evacuated.

I may very well fall into the type of traveler mentioned above.  After all, I did write a post and showcase photos from my time in the Chernobyl Exclusion Zone.  I’m not here to judge (okay, just a little bit), but the thing I find the most painful about hearing about someone’s trip to the exclusion zone is that there is never any mention or curiosity regarding the people that lived there.  What happened to them?  Are they safe?  Where are they now?

The “Where are they now?” question has lingered in my mind since I was a teenager and did my first report on the Chernobyl tragedy.  I knew the answer; I had done my research.  But the place was out of reach and not really a place many people visit, let alone know about.

Housing block in Slavutych, Ukraine

Slavutych, Ukraine

Slavutych was the last city the Soviet Union built.  About 40 kilometers from Chernihiv and nearly 200 from Kiev, Slavutych was named after the old Slavic name for the Dnieper River.  Construction of this purposely-built city began in 1986 and its first residents arrived in October 1988.  Its new residents?  The once inhabitants of Pripyat and those working at the Chernobyl Nuclear Power Plant.  The city of Slavutych (population of around 25,000 people) was built to be a 21st-century city and still to this day is one of Ukraine’s most affluent and prized cities.  Interestingly, 8k of the residents that relocated to Slavutych were children.  The city was built around that and was supposed to be a safe haven for the children that had experienced so much in Pripyat.

Building Slavutych

Slavutych had to be built at a moment’s notice and as quickly as possible.  The unique circumstances led the city to be constructed in a manner foreign to nearly every other city of the Soviet Union.  Workers and architects from eight Soviet countries joined forces to build Slavutych, and each country built a district of the city in their typical and traditional architecture.  These districts, or quarters, were appropriately named after the capital cities of each country.

The countries that built Slavutych, Ukraine's capitals are listed here.

The countries that combined efforts to build Slavutych were Armenia, Azerbaijan, Georgia, Estonia, Latvia, Lithuania, Russia, and of course, Ukraine.  The photo above is a monument dedicated to the capital cities of each country.

Before construction even began in Slavutych, the workers had to lay down two meters of uncontaminated soil.  While the city is in a liveable area and didn’t suffer nearly as much radiation damage from Chernobyl as areas slightly closer, it still had a fair amount of contaminated soil that deemed it unlivable until taken care of.

Eighty percent of homes in Slavutych are in apartment blocks and the other twenty percent are stand-alone houses.  The city is home to a youth center, modern community center, town hall, internet cafe, very modern clinics, sports facilities, and a hotel.  They also have a few restaurants, cafes, and bars.

Slavutych Today

Slavutych today is an utterly fascinating place.  The city was declared a Special Economic Zone as most residents lost their jobs at the nuclear power plant by 2001.  While some 3,000 are still employed at Chernobyl, most other residents had to be retrained by the Ukrainian government in order to build their skills in another field.  The train station in Slavutych actually still has a train sending workers daily to Chernobyl.

Slavutych Train Station

Slavutych Train Station

My Time in Slavutych

I was the only tourist in Slavutych when I was there.  For all I know, I was probably the only one for weeks.  I started my day out by grabbing some food after my marshrutka ride from Chernihiv.  The Old Tallinn restaurant was the first place I stumbled upon and the food was actually really tasty.  They had a set lunch menu, a rather common thing in Ukraine, and I received a bowl of borscht, some beef and potato dish, and fruit in a bowl for dessert.  As I went to pay for my meal (I sat at the bar as the restaurant was packed with locals and researchers), the bartender told me there was no charge and proceeded to explain why.  I never understood what he was saying, but I certainly didn’t complain about it.

After my early lunch, I walked around for a few hours.  The city took me in and out of courtyards, playgrounds, and through each and every district.  I was enamored by how much the construction varied from district to district.  The styles brought back fierce memories of Armenia and some of the other places I had visited.  The Yerevan quarter was my favorite as the buildings all had a pinkish hue to them reminiscent of the ones I remembered from the Armenian capital.  In a way, walking about the city felt like stepping into several countries at once.  It was something I had never felt in any other city I had ever visited in the former Soviet Union.

I stayed in Slavutych until dusk.  I had dinner at Old Tallinn Restaurant (a big heaping bowl of borscht and some pelmeni sans dill because dill is evil) alongside a giant beer.  While Old Tallinn restaurant had been packed for lunch, there was not much of an early dinner crowd aside from an American researcher who had been working at Chernobyl for some years and a local guy who accompanied him.  English was the last language I expected to eavesdrop on that day, but on a day of pleasant and unexpected surprises, I should have known better.

Slavutych remains one of the oddest places I have ever visited in regards to its history and construction.  It wouldn’t strike too many others as odd, but I know a great deal about the Chernobyl disaster and everything about the birth of this Soviet city intrigued me.  In Slavutych, I found extremely friendly people, clean grounds, and a city with soul despite its riveting past.

Slavutych, Ukraine main square

Slavutych, Ukraine sports area

Autumn in Slavutych, Ukraine

Yerevan quarter in Slavutych, Ukraine

<This was inside of the Yerevan district of the city>

Slavutych, Ukraine medical center

<The medical center and its grounds>

Slavutych, Ukraine

Tallinn quarter in Slavutych, Ukraine

Park in Slavutych, Ukraine

Slavutych, Ukraine
Slavutych, Ukraine Chernobyl memorial

<Right:  Chernobyl memorial>

Slavutych, Ukraine Chernobyl memorial

<Another memorial to those perished at Chernobyl>

Slavutych, Ukraine

Slavutych, Ukraine

Slavutych, Ukraine

Slavutych, Ukraine

<inside the Georgian district>

Slavutych, Ukraine

Beer at Tallinn Restaurant in Slavutych, Ukraine

On the way to Slavutych, Ukraine

<on the way to Slavutych>

Slavutych, Ukraine

How to Get There

Apparently, there are buses that leave a few times a day from Kiev.  I couldn’t find definitive information about this, so I opted to use Chernihiv as my base.  Turns out, Chernihiv is pretty cool in its own right, so I am beyond happy with the decision I had made now looking back on it.  From Chernihiv, you can take a train to Slavutych from the main train station around four times a day or you can take a marshrutka there.  I took a marshrutka (which leaves rather frequently from the main train station in Chernihiv).  There were not set times, so you just need to show up early to the train station and wait for the next to leave.  I didn’t pay more than $1-2 for the ride there and back.

There are plenty of grocery stores and kiosks within the city that you can visit for food and drinks.  As for a meal, I highly recommend the restaurant Old Tallinn which can be found at Tbilisskiy Kvartal 1 in the city center.

Slavutych, Ukraine - The City Built for Chernobyl Refugees

Additional Resources

Meet the New Face of Chernobyl from CNN

A Second Life for the Inhabitants of Chernobyl from Cafe Babel

The Town Chernobyl Built from The Wall Street Journal

Slavutych City Page

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Megan is a digital marketing strategist and world traveler based in Frankfurt, Germany but hailing from Richmond, Virginia. She has traveled to over 85 countries and 45 US states and has a special love for the Nordics and Eastern Europe. Her passions are animals, the Pittsburgh Steelers, Ohio State football, craft beer, coffee, and copious amounts of concrete. She is also an advocate for removing dill from all dishes globally.
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24 Comments
  • Nick
    Posted at 20:08h, 09 February Reply

    Lovely post, Megan. It’s posts like these, about truly off the beaten path places, that led me to your blog, and are what keep me reading it. Beautiful pictures as well – getting me very excited for my upcoming trip to Ukraine. :)

    • Megan
      Posted at 12:07h, 10 February Reply

      Thanks so much, Nick!! I can’t wait to see how you get on w/ Ukraine. My favorite country for sure!

  • kami
    Posted at 08:48h, 10 February Reply

    I really can see a resemblance between Yerevan architecture and Yerevan district in Slavutych!

    And the first picture reminds me of the mural we have in Warsaw: http://www.warsawinsider.pl/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/murals-5.jpg

    • Megan
      Posted at 12:01h, 10 February Reply

      It is seriously such an interesting place that reminded me of like 6 other countries.

    • Megan
      Posted at 12:02h, 10 February Reply

      and yes, that does remind me of that street art! cool!

  • zof
    Posted at 20:39h, 11 February Reply

    Yerevan district looks like most districts in Yerevan:-))))

    • Megan
      Posted at 12:47h, 13 February Reply

      Brings back fierce memories!

  • Jasilyn Albert
    Posted at 08:51h, 12 February Reply

    I loved this post. I always wondered what happened to the people, and I’m curious to learn about how the ones who are affected with radiation are dealing with it. They still have to be contaminated, right? I’m probably really naive.

    I laughed when I read, “sans dill because dill is evil.” Your post sounded so formal, and that part was just so funny.

    • Megan
      Posted at 12:47h, 13 February Reply

      Yea I think a lot of issues have resulted from Chernobyl- not just in Ukraine but also in Belarus.

      And dill is truly evil.

  • Martin
    Posted at 12:41h, 13 February Reply

    Really interesting post. I hope to visit Ukraine this year and had considered doing the ‘edgy’ tourist trip to Chernobyl. This city sounds fascinating and gives a different angle on the tragedy, one with optimism. Great photos too.

    • Megan
      Posted at 12:48h, 13 February Reply

      Thanks for your comment, Martin! Definitely get to Ukraine as soon as you can! It is a remarkable country!

  • Katrina Elisabet
    Posted at 17:30h, 13 February Reply

    Lately I’ve becoming more and more fascinated with the “East Bloc” and its history. At times I also have wondered what happened to the average Joes and Janes who survived Chernobyl and had to be relocated. Now I know a little bit more.

    • Megan Starr
      Posted at 18:26h, 27 April Reply

      Yea it is definitely an interesting place to visit for some real perspective that seems to be lost in time!

  • Adam J. Fisher
    Posted at 20:30h, 25 February Reply

    Great post and photos. Have you read ‘Voices from Chernobyl’ by Svetlana Alexievich? It answers a lot of questions.

    • Megan Starr
      Posted at 13:59h, 26 April Reply

      I haven’t! I will certainly have to check this out sometime!

  • Mark
    Posted at 19:28h, 28 February Reply

    Superb post Megan, Slavutych looks like a fascinating place. One quick question, is it possible to overnight in the city, did you see any hotels? Yet another reason to return to Ukraine once more!

    • Megan Starr
      Posted at 13:59h, 26 April Reply

      I am literally just now replying to my comments on this- so sad. Yes, there is a hotel there! I can’t recall the name but it is under Tripadvisor. I would love to stay there someday!

  • Frank
    Posted at 01:29h, 13 March Reply

    Very interesting post. In many ways it just looks like an ordinary, kind of boring town and you would never know it has such an interesting history.
    Great first paragraph. Yup, couldn’t agree more. I guess we can be thankful Chernobyl not a place Asians go to cause then you’d have to add selfies and peace signs to that…

    • Megan Starr
      Posted at 14:00h, 26 April Reply

      Definitely a fascinating history and place!

  • Impressions from Zaporizhia, Ukraine
    Posted at 15:23h, 19 March Reply

    […] about the city prior to arrival.  I concentrated my efforts on planning my trips to Chernihiv, Slavutych, and Kharkiv a bit more than my second trip to Dnipro(petrovsk) and first trip to Zaporizhia. […]

  • Shing
    Posted at 12:09h, 25 March Reply

    Catching up on your posts Megan. I felt moved reading about Slavutych. Writing about this place is so important because how we act after instances of inhumanity is something we can all learn from, and it feels evermore important. Lovely to read that Armenia, Azerbaijan, Georgia, Estonia, Latvia, Lithuania and Russia all helped towards building this city as a sanctuary to those who were affected by Chernobyl.

    • Megan Starr
      Posted at 14:01h, 26 April Reply

      It is so remarkable to see how everyone pitched in to build this city for the unfortunate new residents it acquired!

  • Kotryna
    Posted at 23:46h, 10 July Reply

    What a nice read! I discovered the Slavutych story a few months ago by reading a local culture magazine in Lithuania; it was about the designing and building of the city, mostly. It must have been pretty hard to adjust the building methods of each country to a different climate. Would love to go there one day and visit the Vilnius district.

    • Megan Starr
      Posted at 11:43h, 26 July Reply

      Thanks for your comment, Kotryna! Yea, not many people know about Slavutych which kind of amazes me. But everyone knows about Chernobyl. The whole tragedy drives my curiosity, and visiting Slavutych was kind of just another piece of that puzzle. I hope you make it there someday! :)

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